2011 CX9 Touring Transmission service

I'm at my dealer for a 60K service. They quoted me around $430 for a transmission fluid and filter replacement. They said there is a special gel gasket that costs ~$200. Anyone ever hear about this?

2010 Cx9 Touring
 
@resqguy

That gasket price would be a total rip off. My dealer only quotes me around $180 for transmission fluid, filter, and gasket replacement. My service advisor even say that the gasket only costs around 2 bucks.
 
This just shows how some dealers should really be called $tealers. $200 gasket...WTF!?!?

I changed the "lifetime" fluid on my BMW around 75k. The tranny fluid actually looked fine but it was a different story with the diff luid. It was really dark and stinky.

The 2011 CX-9 that I have is a CPO so I have powertrain warranty to 100k. I plan on changing the fluid every 30k.

Unfortunately we can't think with our dip-stick because we don't even have one :(
castrol-use-your-dipstick.jpg
 
I called the guy on the gasket charge. He then called the tech and then dropped the charge, saying the "computer" added it and the tech said it wasn't necessary. Man, you have to really watch these guys.
 
If it doesn't require an MMDS and/or is not eligible for warranty work, I would never go to a Mazda dealer for any work, ever.
 
So I'm looking at getting a transmission flush on my 2010 CX-9 and my 2003 6. There are 2 Mazda dealerships in town and I called the first one and they quoted me $129.99. I'm thinking that is a great price for a flush. So I ask to make sure that it's a flush with filter replacement and he says no, it's just a drain and fill. And I quote, "Mazda does not recommend transmission flushes so we don't do them". I love how everywhere you go you get a different answer.
 
Maybe it was that time of the month for him when he told you that. I will probly just wait until my trans fluid gets dirty/dark until I do that.
 
for the love of everything holy, do NOT "flush" a transmission. drain and refill. all flushing does is stir up contaminants and decreases transmission life.
 
To folks who have an 2011-2012 CX-9 with no transmission dip stick, could you look at this site an identify whether or not this is the dipstick in question, and if it is, any DIY wanabe could see whether or not it could be installed to allow for checking the fluid and possibly doing a drain and fill yourself. (click or highlight picture to see the item in question).

http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=1819746&ukey_assembly=301344
 
Based on OM,

JWS3309 (page 10-4)
capacity: 7.0L (7.4 US qts)

Just did my second transmission fluid flushing at 50K (first at 30K) at my local Mazda dealer.
It runs very smoothly now (before and after).
Cost: $134 (before tax - discount of 10% from $148 MSRP)
The advisor told me that it is flushing w/ a special equipment that have. Not drain and refill.
A special "kit" (cost $36) was used. I guess it contains the gasket and filter, etc.
Fluid: 10 qt of $4.42 = $44.2
Labor: $68
Discount of $14 (10%)
 
Last edited:
Ceric, just to let you know that the special kit is just a fluid that they put in the transmission when the car is on to clean out the sludge before they actually start running the machine to exchange the fluid. The mazda dealers here use justice brothers products. I dont' know what they might use there. As for the fluid spec ceric one person on this forum flushed his out using toyota t-4 fluid. Also when i was looking at the fluid application chart that the service advisor has on his desk the chart is listed in this way for the trans fluid. JW3309/T-4 fluid. I am guessing that they use the toyota fluid since it is 3 dollars cheaper per quart than the mazda fluid.
 
Ceric, just to let you know that the special kit is just a fluid that they put in the transmission when the car is on to clean out the sludge before they actually start running the machine to exchange the fluid. The mazda dealers here use justice brothers products. I dont' know what they might use there.
I am not sure. The advisor was very specific when she told me that they have a machine that "sucks the fluid out of the torque converter"....
I did not ask for more details after that. She probably saw it in operation just once or twice.

As for fluid, you probably know more than I do. I just took down what is in OM and what is on my bill.
 
for those still looking, and not wanting to pay astronomical prices for ATF from the stealership, Mobil 3309 is available from amazon for $62.70 with free shipping for a case. That's cheaper than most can find Toyota T4 fluid for.
 
New Mazda transmission AY6A-EL (AY6AX-EL) does not need dipstick and it’s not sealed. The bottom has double plug: overflow plug within overflow tube. The top has filler plug. The tricky part is to add correct amount. For that Mazda suggest either using M-MDS, or, “ATF temperature display” in gauge cluster with lengthy “press that, switch this,…” with wheels locked. Just to verify the temperature is right (37C – 47C). At the end, Mazda suggest to open drain plug (but keep tube in place though) while keeping engine idling and let extra ATF to go away.
 
this is the method Aisin used to recommend for the tranny in my 08 Camry. but in the end if all you're trying to do is drain and fill, then there is no harm in replacing exactly how much you drain out...
 
Trans Flush

I'm new here, but have done a few transmission "flushes" and "drains and fills."

Re: Flushing.
Nothing gets "stirred-up" when you flush a transmission. It can be done with a machine or a bucket and a friend. The flush is done at the connections to the transmission oil cooler next to the radiator. I used to do it on my Mitsubishi Montero (Aisin Tranny). All I did was disconnect the tranny cooler supply line and direct the fluid into a bucket. Start the car and then as the fluid starts draining out you pour fresh fluid through a funnel through the dipstick tube. It is not as hard as you would thind to keep track of the amounts. Initally the fluid will be dark, then all of the sudden the fluid goes clean and then you stop. Reconnect the hose then top up the level. Doing this method replaces almost all the fluid with fresh fluid. I do agree though, if your tranny fluid has not been changed for 100k miles i would not do this method.

Re: Drain and fill.
For this method you just open the drain plug and you get maybe 3-4 quarts out. Then replace that through the fill tube. For this method you are only changing about 30% of the fluid at a time, so you would want to do it more often.

Most dealers flush the fluid so that they can get a complete fluid change. They use a machine like in the youtube video, although there are a variety of diferent types of machines. I have seen one type that is like a big piston in a tube. The piston separates the clean from the dirty and the piston also measures in the same amount of fluid in that you take out.

I plan on doing a diy flush on mine soon. Ill post the results.

Re: Trannys with no dipstick.
I recently changed the fluid on My Audi A4 which has a tranny like this. First you drop the pan and change the filter. Then, tt is a bit harrowing of an experience for the home mechanic since you need to raise the car up while keeping it level. They go through a few procedures to get the old fluid out, then refill the fluid through the drain hole with the car running while monitoring the fluid temp with a computer interface. While this method gives you a fresh filter, it does not replace all the fluid.

BTW this Mazda tranny has a filter that can be changed by dropping the pan, it is just that the dealer hate to do that.
 
I'm new here, but have done a few transmission "flushes" and "drains and fills."

Re: Flushing.
Nothing gets "stirred-up" when you flush a transmission. It can be done with a machine or a bucket and a friend. The flush is done at the connections to the transmission oil cooler next to the radiator. I used to do it on my Mitsubishi Montero (Aisin Tranny). All I did was disconnect the tranny cooler supply line and direct the fluid into a bucket. Start the car and then as the fluid starts draining out you pour fresh fluid through a funnel through the dipstick tube. It is not as hard as you would thind to keep track of the amounts. Initally the fluid will be dark, then all of the sudden the fluid goes clean and then you stop. Reconnect the hose then top up the level. Doing this method replaces almost all the fluid with fresh fluid. I do agree though, if your tranny fluid has not been changed for 100k miles i would not do this method.

Re: Drain and fill.
For this method you just open the drain plug and you get maybe 3-4 quarts out. Then replace that through the fill tube. For this method you are only changing about 30% of the fluid at a time, so you would want to do it more often.

Most dealers flush the fluid so that they can get a complete fluid change. They use a machine like in the youtube video, although there are a variety of diferent types of machines. I have seen one type that is like a big piston in a tube. The piston separates the clean from the dirty and the piston also measures in the same amount of fluid in that you take out.

I plan on doing a diy flush on mine soon. Ill post the results.

Re: Trannys with no dipstick.
I recently changed the fluid on My Audi A4 which has a tranny like this. First you drop the pan and change the filter. Then, tt is a bit harrowing of an experience for the home mechanic since you need to raise the car up while keeping it level. They go through a few procedures to get the old fluid out, then refill the fluid through the drain hole with the car running while monitoring the fluid temp with a computer interface. While this method gives you a fresh filter, it does not replace all the fluid.

BTW this Mazda tranny has a filter that can be changed by dropping the pan, it is just that the dealer hate to do that.

Hi Winstond,

Did you get a chance to document the "flushing" process you described above in more detail (pics)?

Do you think this will cause issues on a 2010 CX-9 with 47K mi that hasn't had tranny oil changed yet?

Thanks a lot!
 
Back