A/C Blows Cold on Drivers Side and Hot on Passenger Side

kenbuff1

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Mazda, CX-90 Premium Plus, 2024
Mazda CX-9 Grand Touring 2007

My vehicle just started Blowing Cold on one side and Hot on the other, intermitten at first now it is locked into this condition. The Driver's and Rear Passenger area's of the vehicle is still functioning correctly with no issues, however, the Front Passenger side of the vehicle is blowing hot all the time and will not change regardless of the settings. Anyone have any idea what is causing this?

"All factory equipment only that comes with the vehicle, installed"
 
Thanks for the info, now to find the part number, since I am out of warranty (figures). Hopefully this is not a big deal to repair.
 
So there is no tsb on this? My dealer will replace the flapper motor if there is a tsb and I tell them that I have "experienced" the problem. I don't think I've seen a tsb though
 
Repair

It turns out to be the actuator, its location is on the passenger side of the car, behind the glove box and to the left. Its black in color and you can not miss it, because it is mounted onto the A/C duct main housing which is white in color (only thing there). There are three silver screws holding it to the housing with a green electrical 5 wire harness connector, plus the actuator arm. This actuator opens and closes based on the Logicom controller. It only took me 30 minutes to remove and replace.
 
My CX-9 had the same symptoms, only it was the driver's side that didn't blow cold air. I located the driver’s side temp-control actuator and watched it while I adjusted the temperature setting. The actuator operated as expected, and the linkages (on the outside of the main housing) looked to be in good shape. I'm trying to think what else it could be. The only thing that makes sense is that the linkages to the tempt control door inside the housing may be broken or mis-operating... but that is going to be a big disassembly, and I don't want to be wrong. Could it be anything else?

I figure it can't be the AC system itself because the passenger side and rear ducts are working great.

My understanding is that the dual air control is accomplished by separating the main duct housing into 2 sides that are independently controlled. Is it possible that the evaporator (which I believe spans the entire length of the housing) is failing, and a gradient of efficiency exists where from the passenger side to the driver's side the evaporator is failing so that the passenger side works while the driver's side doesn't? I note that the coolant hoses attach to the evaporator on the passenger side, so I thought maybe that could be it... but I don't know how the evaporator's work well enough to think if this is realistic.

Thanks for any direction you can give me. I appreciate it.
 
have you managed to resolve the issue?

My CX-9 had the same symptoms, only it was the driver's side that didn't blow cold air. I located the drivers side temp-control actuator and watched it while I adjusted the temperature setting. The actuator operated as expected, and the linkages (on the outside of the main housing) looked to be in good shape. I'm trying to think what else it could be. The only thing that makes sense is that the linkages to the tempt control door inside the housing may be broken or mis-operating... but that is going to be a big disassembly, and I don't want to be wrong. Could it be anything else?

I figure it can't be the AC system itself because the passenger side and rear ducts are working great.

My understanding is that the dual air control is accomplished by separating the main duct housing into 2 sides that are independently controlled. Is it possible that the evaporator (which I believe spans the entire length of the housing) is failing, and a gradient of efficiency exists where from the passenger side to the driver's side the evaporator is failing so that the passenger side works while the driver's side doesn't? I note that the coolant hoses attach to the evaporator on the passenger side, so I thought maybe that could be it... but I don't know how the evaporator's work well enough to think if this is realistic.

Thanks for any direction you can give me. I appreciate it.

I just have the same issue as well, the front driver side blows hot air.. while passenger and rear sides blow cool air..
have you managed to resolve this issue? on which part is the problem ? is it the problem with FRONT AIR MIX ACTUATOR at driver side?

thanks..
 
kenbuff1, I too have a 2007 CX9. Did you mean it took 30 mins. total to remove and replace the glove box and the actuator motor? With another car I owned, the glove box had to come out along with the entire dashboard. With the CX9 is it possible to remove the glove box only? I may take it to the dealer. The dealer always charges 1 hr. as a diagnostic fee even if they know exactly where the fault lies. It's easy money for them. Then they often charge absurd amounts of labour time for some work on top of that. I have been going to an independent mechanic (for 30 years) who specializes in Japanese cars but he is semi-retired and has also offered to look at it. He has 3 younger mechanics who work there. He is very honest and reasonable and I trust his integrity and level of diligence and precision. He knows Toyotas inside out but he is very good at diagnostics and has a small but well-equipped shop. I'd like to give him as much assistance as possible in understanding what work is involved. I usually pay him hourly because I trust him. Please let me know if the entire repair including removal of the glove box took all of 30 minutes. Any other tips you can pass along would be appreciated.
 
It took me 30 Minutes to remove the Glove Box (2 Screws), and the Actuator (3 Screws) plus harness and Arm. You can actually lower the Glove Box without completely removing it to do the repair, it just gave me more light and room to maneuver. To just lower the Glove Box, push in the inside upper corners of the box as it is being opened.

Hope this helps.
 
My CX-9 had the same symptoms, only it was the driver's side that didn't blow cold air. I located the drivers side temp-control actuator and watched it while I adjusted the temperature setting. The actuator operated as expected, and the linkages (on the outside of the main housing) looked to be in good shape. I'm trying to think what else it could be. The only thing that makes sense is that the linkages to the tempt control door inside the housing may be broken or mis-operating... but that is going to be a big disassembly, and I don't want to be wrong. Could it be anything else?

I figure it can't be the AC system itself because the passenger side and rear ducts are working great.

My understanding is that the dual air control is accomplished by separating the main duct housing into 2 sides that are independently controlled. Is it possible that the evaporator (which I believe spans the entire length of the housing) is failing, and a gradient of efficiency exists where from the passenger side to the driver's side the evaporator is failing so that the passenger side works while the driver's side doesn't? I note that the coolant hoses attach to the evaporator on the passenger side, so I thought maybe that could be it... but I don't know how the evaporator's work well enough to think if this is realistic.

Thanks for any direction you can give me. I appreciate it.

Same problem faced here, hope there is a quick low-cost resolution.
 
I had the same problem and just replaced my driver's side actuator in about :20. The most challenging part was contorting my left hand up and under the dash, around the dash brace and electrical components to remove and replace the screws. I found the part online from numerous sources including Mazda dealerships (through eBay) and Amazon for $250. Then searched AutoZone and although they couldn't cross-reference the P/N, I ordered it and turned out to be an exact match for $42! https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-heater-blend-door-actuator/santech-a-c-heater-blend-door-actuator/559119_240261_0
 
Is it possible that the evaporator (which I believe spans the entire length of the housing) is failing, and a gradient of efficiency exists where from the passenger side to the driver's side the evaporator is failing so that the passenger side works while the driver's side doesn't? I note that the coolant hoses attach to the evaporator on the passenger side, so I thought maybe that could be it... but I don't know how the evaporator's work well enough to think if this is realistic.
The evaporator is part of the refrigeration system...the air conditioning cooling system. Engine coolant hoses attach to the heater core, not the evaporator. Anyway, if the evaporator fails, the refrigerant (the replacement for Freon) will leak out and you'd have no cooling. High pressure liquid refrigerant (R-134a, Tetrafluoroethane (CF3CH2F), brand name possibly SUVA 134a) flows to the thermoexpansion valve or capillary tube, then into the evaporator where the heat from the air passing over it evaporates the refrigerant into a gas thus cooling the air. This low pressure gas is then is pulled back to the compressor, the compressed hot high pressure gas goes into the condenser on the front of the car's radiator where it is condensed to a cool high pressure liquid, and the cycle goes round & round.
 
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