This was the weekend to tackle my front 'brake job'.

4wardmotion

Member
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'08 CX-9 Sport AWD
I actually started Friday evening around 4:00 PM. I should have paid more attention to the posts regarding people's experience with the retaining bolts. I kind of forgot about that and when I got to that point, I realized I only had a large Philips screwdriver. I should have stopped after attempting the first screw - which didn't budge. My neighbor came over to see what I was up to and while I was digging through my toolbox, he tried to get one loose and ended up starting to strip the screw. I headed over to Sears and picked up a socket with a #3 Philips bit. Got home and was able to get 3 of the 4 screws off, but unfortunately, the one that had started to strip just got worse. I don't know what they make those screws out of but they are pretty soft. I ended up having to drill it out......which, being soft, made for a quick and easy job.

I was worried about getting the rotors off after others mentioned they were rusted on pretty good. Mine came loose with 1 good blow from the hammer. I was pretty amazed on how much pad 'meat' was left on my front pads - easily over 50% left....and that's with 86K miles on my 9. Granted, I do mostly highway driving, but I didn't expect to see that much. On the back side of one rotor, I had a significant groove, which I wonder if it was the real cause of the pulsation I was feeling when braking. Otherwise, the pads and rotors were in relatively good shape.

The new rotors (Centric Standard) were installed quick and easy, but the pads (Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramics) gave me a heck of a time. I'm sure it's due to my inexperience with doing this work (I've only replaced brakes and rotors on one other car of mine). It didn't help that the sun had left me, so I had nothing but my garage lights to work under, but I had trouble getting the pads in place. Having slippery fingers from the brake lube that I put on the back of the pads wasn't helping matters. I eventually got one side done and thankfully, the other side took less than 1/2 as long. I finally finished around 9:30!! I took it for a short ride and the brakes seemed really nice - no more pulsation. I was worried that the issue might have been caused by the rear brakes.

Today, I tackled bleeding my brake lines - I have only done this once before..on a motorcycle. I purchased the Motive Brake Bleeder (Model 0118) a few weeks ago - thanks to someone on here that mentioned it. The 1118 Adapter and the thicker of the 2 sealing washers that it comes with, worked well.

I removed as much of the old fluid from the reservoir as possible - but there must be some sort of built-in screen at the corner of the reservoir because I couldn't push the siphoning tubing that I was using any further, so I was only able to pull about 2 or 3 ounces from the reservoir. I then partially filled the reservoir with my new (Blue) brake fluid.....attached the Motive Bleeder that I had already filled with the rest of the new fluid and started pumping it up.

I bled the rear passenger side caliper first. I was surprised how little of the old fluid came out before the new Blue fluid was flushing through. Then I did the other rear caliper. Next, I did the front passenger caliper and finally the driver's side front. At this point, I was excited to think that I did something I had never done before and how easy it was!

Then I went to top off the brake reservoir........
When I removed the Brake Bleeder, and looked into the reservoir, I could see fluid...but it wasn't Blue! ....WTF.....???? The only thing I could think of is that there was so much residual fluid in that lower reservoir, that it somehow mixed with the blue or somehow allowed the Blue fluid to by-pass it during the flushing process. It doesn't really make a lot of sense, but that's what I found. I siphoned out the reservoir again - what came out was definitely the old fluid, but just slightly tinted from the Blue fluid. I filled up the reservoir and this time decided to use the Bleeder again but just to flush fluid to the front caliper....I thought maybe when I flushed it, I would see Blue, followed by the old fluid and then Blue fluid again. Nope...I kept just seeing Blue fluid come out. ...???

I decided to give up. I topped-off the reservoir and put everything together and went for a ride. No issues and it stops really sweet now with no more pulsation and vibrating steering wheel.

So, I suppose it was a success, even though I ran into some issues along the way. And if anyone knows why the Blue fluid didn't just push the old fluid completely out of the system, I'd be curious to know your thoughts....or if there is another way to get more of the old fluid out of the reservoir before starting.

Thanks to those of you that have written 'how-to's' on these forums - if it wasn't for that, I wouldn't have even attempted this.(drinks)
 
Cool. Thanks for the info. I'm getting myself prepared to try it. When you drill out the screws how do you do that?

I just grabbed my drill and drill bit (I think about 11/32"..?) and started drilling. I didn't even bother to drill the entire screw out. I took it down enough that the old rotor came off and the new one went over the 'stub'. I think it took all of 90 seconds. If it wasn't for the fact that there are 2 screws holding the rotor on, I would have taken it completely out. But since I doubt I'll have to replace the rotors again, I'm not concerned about it. One dumbass thing that I didn't do, was put some anti-seize on the remaining 3 screws....just in case I do need to replace the rotors again. But now that I have the socketed Philips head, I should be able to get them all out anyway.....or so I hope!
 
Here are a few tips to help with removing the rotor retaining screw. (1) try and use an impact wrench. (2) If you dont have that then use a large head philips. (3) If you manage to strip the screw, drill a small hole down the center of the screw and use an "easy out" to extract the rest; this will ensure that the hole threads are intact so that you can put a screw back later if you wish (not necessary though).

Getting the Calliper to go over the brake pads in the carriage can be trickey, so be sure to use a C-Clamp and compress the caliper pistons all the way in before trying to fit the caliper over. If not you risk damaging the caliper piston or seals.
 
so you just replaced the front rotors/pads and left the rear ones alone? No pedal vibration?

Correct.
Since the front brakes do 60~75% (estimate) of the braking on the car, I figured I would start there and hope that resolved the pulsating issue. Although I haven't taken my car on the highway yet, I did get it up to about 60 MPH on local streets and hit the brakes hard and it was nice and smooth. Rear brake pads looked barely worn, so hopefully there will be no need to replace them anytime soon.
 
Here are a few tips to help with removing the rotor retaining screw. (1) try and use an impact wrench. (2) If you dont have that then use a large head philips. (3) If you manage to strip the screw, drill a small hole down the center of the screw and use an "easy out" to extract the rest; this will ensure that the hole threads are intact so that you can put a screw back later if you wish (not necessary though).

Getting the Calliper to go over the brake pads in the carriage can be trickey, so be sure to use a C-Clamp and compress the caliper pistons all the way in before trying to fit the caliper over. If not you risk damaging the caliper piston or seals.

Thanks! I'll try to remember that trick about drilling the small hole first should I decide to remove the existing / half-drilled out screw. I did use the C-clamp to compress the pistons - that went well. On another vehicle (VW Passat) a special tool was needed to turn the piston while compressing it. Thankfully, it isn't necessary on the 9.
 
I've been in contact with the owner of the Motive Brake Bleeder that I used. Unless he's giving me a line, he said he's never heard of the old fluid getting back inside the reservoir during the flushing process. My buddy uses the same method on his BMWs and he said it's never happened to him either. So, if anyone else does there own brake flushing, I'll be curious to know if you run into the same thing. The process was quick and easy, but I was bummed to see the old fluid. Hopefully after I siphoned it out a second time, it removed most of the old fluid.
 
I was swapping out my winter wheels so I decided to go ahead and pull out those screws. I grabbed my dewalt cordless drill and a #3 philips bit. The first 3 came out pretty easily. I could tell the drill needed a lot of torque since the drill almost spun around the screw each time. Unfortunately the 4th screw stipped on me. Probably cause I didn't push the drill hard enough into it since the first three came out without much trouble. Long story short, drilled on it for a while and then I was able to jam a flat head screwdriver in there and just unscrew it.

WHere did you guys order your rotors from, Tire rack?
 
this is what you needed - the image is a snap-on product, but there's an inexpensive craftsman product that i purchased after my first attempt at removing frozen brake rotor screws on my old civic. when i went to do the first brake service, there was literally a piece of broken off phillips screwdriver in one of the rotor screws from someone elses failed attempt to remove them. one good whack is usually all it takes.

17535.JPG


search 'impact driver'
 
WHere did you guys order your rotors from, Tire rack?

I know some have purchased theirs from Tire Rack. I searched online for the best price with shipping and ended up ordering them from a place called; OEHQ.com
Although their prices were good, if I hadn't been searching by the part number I needed, I would have thought they didn't carry the Rotors or Pads I was looking for (both Centric)....as nothing from Centric came up on their website when I searched on the 9. I bought the "standard" C-Tek Centric Rotors after talking to one of the Techs at Centric who informed me the only difference between the cheaper/Standard Rotors and their Premium Rotors was the coating applied to the Premium rotors to minimize rust. I figure they're going to rust eventually anyway, so why not save some money...
And this site offered free shipping on orders over $75............and shipping 40 pounds worth of metal isn't cheap. The thing that prevents me from 'raving' about the site is the fact it took them 2 weeks and 6 follow-up calls before they shipped my stuff. Even though I wasn't in a big rush, they were really starting to annoy me. So, if you decide to go with them, keep ON them until you see the tracking information for your order. But it cost me only $146 for the 2 front rotors and a set of the Posi-Quiet Ceramic Pads, shipped to my house....not too shabby. I was all set to place the same order from RockAuto, but it would have cost me about $20 more...still a good price.
 
this is what you needed - the image is a snap-on product, but there's an inexpensive craftsman product that i purchased after my first attempt at removing frozen brake rotor screws on my old civic. when i went to do the first brake service, there was literally a piece of broken off phillips screwdriver in one of the rotor screws from someone elses failed attempt to remove them. one good whack is usually all it takes.

17535.JPG


search 'impact driver'

That would have done the trick!! I needed that for sure....oh well, next time!
 
You should try using some WD-40 sprayed right on the retaining screws about 30 minutes prior to starting this job, and using the correct screw driver, take your time, and these screws will come out with no problems.
 
this is what you needed - the image is a snap-on product, but there's an inexpensive craftsman product that i purchased after my first attempt at removing frozen brake rotor screws on my old civic. when i went to do the first brake service, there was literally a piece of broken off phillips screwdriver in one of the rotor screws from someone elses failed attempt to remove them. one good whack is usually all it takes.

17535.JPG


search 'impact driver'

I did a friend's MDX over the weekend. Honda uses these retaining screws as well. The craftsman impact driver worked well on 3 axles but the fourth was stubborn. Tried it many time but it would not give. Screw was not stripped. After about 5 hard bangs, i saw that the phillips bit was twisted. Gave up on the impact driver and drilled the sucker out. Took only 2 mins or so for each screw. Next time if it doesn't come out after 2 bangs, i'll just drill the sucker.
 
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