So opinion on my repair bill...(related to my camber thread)

C

cutchemist

Member
Heres the original thread

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-but-no-severe-pulling-on-the-streeting-wheel....

So basically, the mechanic said I ruined the bearing (which I thought), the hub, and a ball joint needed to be replaced. I did not have time to cross-shop since I need my car. My dad also covered half since I paid for the rental car for a funeral we had to drive to in the fall.

Heres the breakdown:

Bearing..............................$79.88
Ball Joint............................$185.95
Ring/Retainer......................$9.22
Hub...................................$227.91
Left Hub/Bearing Labour.......$136
Left Lower C/Arm Labour.......$59.5

Subtotal..............................$718.46


I feel like these things I could have done as long as I got a shop to press the bearing but its winter and I wont do this work outside during the season. Could I get input on pricing because even though Im paying half, I would like to know the appropriateness of the bill.

He also mentioned the rear stabilizer bar links look bad.

Thanks
 
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Well just going off of onlinemazdaparts.com it seems some parts might have been more expensive....? Also, I thought ball joint and control were one unit, yet he mentions nothing about replacing control arm. Im guessing its just the way he wrote it out.

And I found a cheaper hub and can tell he got the hub from a local dealer so its twice as much as the price I found. However, once you find out the hub needs to be replaced your probably too knee deep into the repair to go back. Just wished this happened during the summer so I could have saved some money.
 
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If you paid that much for the hub it should have come with the bearing already instaled I payed 25 for my wheel bearing and 125 for all labor including them installing it. I could have paid 80 for the hub and wheel bearing assembly but was too lazy to do it myself. I would say you got raped in charges not the normal kind I'm talking gang bang in prison rape
 
By the time i got the car stopped and called CAA for a tow, I guess it ruined it. I asked to see the hub and it was done., no doubt about it. It had about a half inch deeper grove in it from being chipped away at. Mechanic said that was the clicking I was hearing for the last two weeks probably.

Also about the hub; he did have it to buy from a local Mazda dealer. Should that have meant the bearing would be in the hub since it was direct from the manufacturer?

Did having the wheel off-camber for so long put pressure on the bearing or should I chalk this up to rough Winnipeg roads?
 
For that price it should have. And having an alignment off bad motor mounts or anything that makes weight shift unevenly can out added stress on bearings and axels and ball joints. Call mazda dealership and ask them for a price check on the hub if theirs is the same price or cheaper with the wheel bearing I would make him redo the bill. Labor is about right but the parts is just plain rediculous
 
tweety2300 said:
For that price it should have. And having an alignment off bad motor mounts or anything that makes weight shift unevenly can out added stress on bearings and axels and ball joints. Call mazda dealership and ask them for a price check on the hub if theirs is the same price or cheaper with the wheel bearing I would make him redo the bill. Labor is about right but the parts is just plain rediculous
Click to expand...

So after phoning both Gerry Gordons Mazda and Destination Mazda in Winnipeg I got this info:

-Bearing not included with hub; both dealers said so.
-Hub........................$227.91
-Bearing...................$102.36 (why is a bearing so expensive from the dealer?)
 
No clue as I said I paid 25 bucks for my wheel bearing at autozone. The place that did the work was gona charge 80 for the hub and bearing.
 
Just to put it out there, the camber measurement on the tire in question was +1.6 after an alignment to get it inline. As I understand, the manual suggests +/- .49. They said that if anything was bent, it could not been seen by the eye and suggested a frame shop might be able to tell about the mount area.

How big of a concern is my measurement now at +1.6?
 
My comp was not letting me edit. I wanted to also mention the technician was trying to get about 1 more degree of negative camber.

The shop suggested a frame shop to get a precise measurement on the strut and strut mounting tower.
 
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So took my car to a frame shop and here are the results. Just remember, I replaced the hub, bearing, and control arm/ball joint two weeks ago.

-Steering knuckle is main culprit. They said thats the one main reason my camber is off.

-The warped knuckle they said has already ruined the bearing I replaced!! (Which is kinda suspected because the bad bearing noises came back)

-80% sure an exact measurement of the strut would indicate its bent once its taken off. They're not able to get a measurement done with it on.


$25.00 for the diagnosis and was quoted $545 for all the work as long as the strut was actually bent.

With it being summertime and me riding my bike now to work, I would be able to do this myself over the summer without my life being affected. I would just need to actually purchase ball joint and tie rod separators. I would also have to pay a shop to handle the bearing press. Any suggestions?

I am also very upset the first garage could not tell the knuckle was warped or I could have saved the costs of another bearing....

Thoughts?
 
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