^Misinformation? Beg to differ, respectfully.
Many of us ran bolted or very close to it with no problems for many thousands of miles on stock tune. For me that was about 40,000 miles with intake and with catless big downpipe and racepipe and colder plugs at 18 psi boost. But I monitored meticulously. Now I have added HT tune, which is very complimentary with my mods and resolved the only issue I was having, which were very quick, transient boost spikes to 21 when first coming up on boost at WOT.
I'm not familiar with the stock ECU blown engine phenemenon you mention. That ECU programming is very protective. The "stock" ECU blown engines I've heard about were typically owners running manual boost controllers.
On the other hand there are thread after thread after thread of problems with the stage 1 OTS AP maps, especially the early ones, and thread after thread after thread about blown engines on AP tune (most probably due to stupid mistakes made in the tables by owners or custom tuners, or those crappy OTS maps).
And, for what it is worth, there is at least one guy on another board who is fully bolted, has about 40,000 miles on the car still on stock tune and is running 12.6 quarters on DOT radials. It's often a matter of making careful, complimentary mods and even more careful monitoring rather than being a fanboy for any particular tuning option. That's not to say that a well tuned AP car would not be even better. But one ought be careful in automatically slamming either the stock tune or HT. Both are better than one might think when the car is otherwise properly configured.
I still say that OP's engine failure was due to bad tuning choices in AP, and that going back to stock and trying to defraud the dealer and Mazda is likely to get him caught when they check the date on the ECU flash and start looking deeper.
