HELP! Rear a/c vent not blowing air!!!!

You guys are over-thinking it. The damper for the rear air is positioned on the hvac housing *before* the heater core. They didn't redesign the entire hvac housing to add the rear air, they just added a damper and duct with a blower in the duct.

And now back to the original topic.
 
OK original topic. After I got the motor going I never thought to try the normal system again. Tomrrow I'll try the system again incase the motor just needed a little exercise, since it has not moved since sometime last summer, or earlier.
 
Well success today. Moved the motor two more times and than reconnected it to the system. The door moved properly, so I'm back to normal. Looks like I'll have to remember to exercise the door on a regular schedule.
Thanks again SuperJETT for all the info.
Marty
 
I had the same problem with my 2009 Mazda 5.
After reading the discussion in this thread about the actuator motor being stuck I decided to try turning the rear blower on and off several times to see if it would free up the motor and after doing this about a dozen times the actuator kicked in and the unit started blowing air again.
From now on, I will turn the unit on occasionally just to keep the actuator freed up.
My thanks to all who posted on this thread for the valuable info....rgds...GW,Toronto
 
Thanks A LOT everyone for your comments on this subject. I am about to buy a mazda5 2008 and was worried about this issue. I will let everyone know how this issue works out for me.
 
My turn next with this issue. Quick recap:

1. I hooked up my multimeter to the harness and I get about 11V when turning it on or off
2. I don't see the motor moving anywhere when I push the button. Should there be at least something visible when the voltage turns on or off?
3. Anyone ever replaced the rear actuator and have some good steps as to how to remove the metal bracket that doesn't involve removing the entire front console? EDIT: Looks like I could have just unscrewed the screws and wiggled it out. Crap. Will try that tomorrow
 
Last edited:
Got this done. And no you don't need to remove the center console or that bracket. Pretty straightforward

1. Remove the kick plate
2. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the bracket connector (12mm socket)
3. Unscrew the 3 screws that hold the actuator motor and wiggle it off

I let mine hang down so it had some clearance behind the actuator motor and turned the rear air on. The actuator arm moved. Awesome

So then I tried moving the lever arm itself (white plastic piece behind the actuator, should move up and down). It seemd like it was stuck but after moving it the first time it moved very easily after that. So I lifted it up and held it, turned the rear air on, and air flowed freely

I then tested the motor a couple more times to ensure it was working OK and it was. Hooked everything back up, and it is now working just fine. No more fluttering sound
 
Fellas, thank you so much for taking the time to prepare this write up. I removed the plastic cover and gave the A/C vent actuator motor 3 loving taps with a rubber mallet and it resumed working. I left the actuator bolted on the bracket when I did this. I wish everything could be resolved with a rubber mallet. Replacing the motor is easy enough, but the part does cost $92 from my local Mazda dealer. This is an easy fix either way. Keep a rubber mallet in the car, but don't try to do the tapping while you're driving! Good luck with your cars. Go Mazda go.
 
Just got Quoted $625 to repair at a Mazda dealer!

joelhoh said:
Fellas, thank you so much for taking the time to prepare this write up. I removed the plastic cover and gave the A/C vent actuator motor 3 loving taps with a rubber mallet and it resumed working. I left the actuator bolted on the bracket when I did this. I wish everything could be resolved with a rubber mallet. Replacing the motor is easy enough, but the part does cost $92 from my local Mazda dealer. This is an easy fix either way. Keep a rubber mallet in the car, but don't try to do the tapping while you're driving! Good luck with your cars. Go Mazda go.
Click to expand...

Hi All,

I just got quoted $625 to repair on my 2010 Mazda 5! Of course this was a dealer. Anyone know how much the actuator part itself costs if you need to replace the whole thing not just the motor?

Doesn't sound to hard to replace. They are claiming the cost of the part is 200+.

Thanks,
Marc
 
Piggydad30 said:
Hi All,

I just got quoted $625 to repair on my 2010 Mazda 5! Of course this was a dealer. Anyone know how much the actuator part itself costs if you need to replace the whole thing not just the motor?

Doesn't sound to hard to replace. They are claiming the cost of the part is 200+.

Thanks,
Marc
Click to expand...

Looks like they might be telling the truth:
http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=1914653&ukey_assembly=311437&ukey_make=995&ukey_model=0&ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=2010

They have it listed at $229.98 (assuming I'm looking at the right part - 61A70). I wouldn't pay to have them replace it, you can do it yourself in about 10 minutes.
 
X-Tanker said:
Looks like they might be telling the truth:
http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=1914653&ukey_assembly=311437&ukey_make=995&ukey_model=0&ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=2010



They have it listed at $229.98 (assuming I'm looking at the right part - 61A70). I wouldn't pay to have them replace it, you can do it yourself in about 10 minutes.
Click to expand...

The link you posted shows a parts diagram for a rear HVAC housing that uses not only a separate evaporator for A/C but also a separate heater core for rear heat. It's a CX-9 parts listing, not MZ5 so pricing might be different.
 
torquelover said:
The link you posted shows a parts diagram for a rear HVAC housing that uses not only a separate evaporator for A/C but also a separate heater core for rear heat. It's a CX-9 parts listing, not MZ5 so pricing might be different.
Click to expand...

My mistake. I found the schematic for the 5, but did not see the actuator included in it. May have to do some additional searching to locate it.

http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=1843151&ukey_assembly=310949&ukey_make=995&ukey_model=14357&ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=2010
 
Honestly, follow the instructions and my post from June. You may be able to loosen it with a couple taps without removing the actuator. If it still doesn't go, unscrew the actuator and then try it. See if it moves. If it does, try moving the flap with a screwdriver
 
Bumping this. Had the pleasure of doing this again this year. This time I had to press on the motor arm immediately after pushing the button to break it loose. I lubed it with some white lithium grease as best I could this time so hopefully that will help

Also, do this with the car running so you get the maximum volts to the motor. Initially when I turned it to run I was only getting 9V. Turned the car on and I started getting 11V
 
Mods, this thread really should be a sticky. It could help a lot of folks who may be having this problem and wouldn't know where to turn except the dealer to fix it
 
Secondtyme said:
Mods, this thread really should be a sticky. It could help a lot of folks who may be having this problem and wouldn't know where to turn except the dealer to fix it
Click to expand...

I'll add it to the DIY or all-in-one maintenance thread, whatever it's called.
 
Bumping. Mine didn't work again this spring, although I think if i would have tried the Hi button by the vents instead of the Rear button on the console it might have helped
 
I just had my rear vents act up for the first time on my 2010 Mazda 5. I had my wife cycle power from the rear while I nudged the actuator's white arm under the dash. Hopefully this does not turn into a reoccurring problem. I am going to have to try to remember to cycle the rear vents more often.
 
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