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Thread: motor build?

  1. #1
    Msp 666 Aka Christine mazdaspeedp's Avatar
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    motor build?

    so i was thinking of building my engine soon and wanted some input so ive been told i need to rebalace the crank,replace headstuds, do a main cap hone and a 3 angle valve job also replace rods and pistons with forged ones. So is all this necessary or am i able to skip out on a couple of these steps like say not do the 3 angle valve job.?
    any info would be appreciated
    -thanks -Andrew
    motor build in progress. Weisco and Pauter Forged rods and pistons .9mm overbore 9:1 compression. Perrin fuel system and Doc B oil system. New motor mounts by AWR. And new oilpan by AWR. Spec stage 3+ clutch and factory flywheel,Rebuilt cylinder head with FS-ZE cams. Haltech standalone platinum 1000 with Custom patch harness.505 Intake manifold,Steedspeed exhaust manifold with CS Turbo back exhaust system custom fitted and modified cs S pipe, Garrett gtx2867 turbo, custom Fmic setup with Hks ssqv bov, deuchworks fuel pump, Id1000 injectors, Personal steering wheel and hub,GT Spec suspension parts,Mishimoto Radiator with slim fans and Mishi fan shroud,Irradium catch can,bandm oilcooler.Hydra transmission brace plate. Innovative wideband, haltech boost controll solenoid.

  2. #2
    2003 MSP# 247 HighSpeed's Avatar

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    You can skip whatever you like. But since you have the motor apart, replace as much things as you can with quality parts and you will be better off in the long run. 3 angle valve job may help but most people go with a slight P&P with matched ports. You will find what you want, just look for it some more.
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  3. #3
    Registered Member jclue's Avatar

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    DONT CUT CORNERS! We all know this stuff gets very expensive, but cutting corners will most likely cost you more $$$ down the road plus additional down time.

  4. #4
    Msp 666 Aka Christine mazdaspeedp's Avatar
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    i know i dont plan on cutting corners i just didnt really think doing the valve job was really necessary i talked to a few mechanics and they said it didnt really need to be done. Any suggestions on other parts to add in while im gonna be doing this anyone here ran the k1 stroker crank?
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  5. #5
    Registered Member powderider87's Avatar

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    The crank is forged, as long as you have never spun a bearing i would keep it. Just spec it out and im sure you will be fine. That and a 3 angle valve job arent a must. at least get a valve seal kit.
    Black Mica- 10 psi. Crossover auto forged shortblock kit, K1 rods, Wiseco forged pistons, SSAFC. PnP Head, Intake manifold (626) and exhaust manifold. ACT Stage 1 and Welded diff. Injen SRI. Altered Customs FMIC. Greddy RS bov. Corksport power series. ATP WG 03.5 Wheels. 22mm rear bar, A pretty Vibrant vaccum block.

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    If you think you might want an upgrade I say do it now! If you put the motor back together and regret something later. As the valve job goes, I know a few engine builders who say you can get 20hp out of a chevy 350. While it might not give you big gains it will help scavanging of air. The inside of the engine is were the power comes from, everylittle bit helps and you will be making your engine more effecient.

  7. #7
    Msp 666 Aka Christine mazdaspeedp's Avatar
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    ya i see what your saying its just that a few mechanics said that the valve job is gonna get expensive for not that big of gains. They were also saying that it will weaken the valves. I dont plan on skipping out on important things just trying to not go crazy with max cost if its not necessary. So far i plan on getting a build kit with rods ad pistons forged also all the gaskets and new head studs. i will get the crank balanced and do the cylinder hone and main cap hone. just trying to figure out exactly what i need to do a good job to support decent horsepower probabley around 320whp if i can using a gt2871r turbo
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  8. #8
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    It should not hurt the valves all they are doing is cutting into the seat so instead of a round surface you get three angles to maximize flow and velocity. This is a mod that will increase your gains when you increase flow and velocity as well such as more boost so if your gonna try and make some power this is something i would personally do.
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  9. #9
    215hp/247ft lbs @5280FT ColquitttCustms's Avatar


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    Just do the money to HP ratio. What are they quoting you on a 3AVJ? Been looking into getting my head reworked while the bottom end is getting built.

  10. #10
    Msp 666 Aka Christine mazdaspeedp's Avatar
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    what do you mean a 3avj? they quoted me 2200 for the rods and pistons kit
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  11. #11
    I came I saw I conquered. NocturnalSpeed's Avatar

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    ^ 3 Angle Valve Job
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  12. #12
    cheif smacktalker yudkib's Avatar


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    for the head, PnP, 3AVJ, decked surfaces, new seals to start.
    for the block, decked surfaces, forged internals, balancing is a good idea, cylinder hone (or bore), bearings, gaskets, etc. ARP head and main studs.

    a real budget build is tear down the old motor and replace with forged. youre better off finding a balance in-between top-of-the-line and budget... you can save a few dollars here and there with OEM vs. race bearings or some fasteners, you can minimize head work, but you only want to pull the motor once so best do it right the first time.
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  13. #13
    Msp 666 Aka Christine mazdaspeedp's Avatar
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    ok so im makin a list
    1.Pnp
    2.Build kit with rods, pistons, bearings,gaskets,headstuds
    3.Balance crank
    4.main cap hone
    5.new valve kit/ 3 avj
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  14. #14
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    if u can get the head flowed while your doing this stuff you can get a potential horsepower number by doing .25xcfm at 100% effeciancy but since we use turbos we can hit about 120% just something you could get done if your shop has a flowbench
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  15. #15
    Msp 666 Aka Christine mazdaspeedp's Avatar
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    ok im not sure what that is exactley the machine shop would get the head flowed or what do you mean
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