Need Help, Getting Frustrated!@!@!

T

tcrawford97

Member
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'03 Mazdaspeed Protege Spicy Orange
okay so i am getting massive hesitation. I cant seem to pin it down to anything, I have new coils and wires, brand new plugs (NGK 1 step colder than stock). when i get on the gas it gets full boost @ 8psi (ATP WGA) but the car hardly goes at all. the sound is also different like the spool up seems loader, but not sure what else it could be. ive been hunting down this gremlin for a while now, and am about to give up. My sig shows all current mods to date so there is nothing hiding!! anyone with experience please help, i love my msp i just want it to love me back!!!
 
he has the Unichip

if you had a wideband, this would probably be a little easier. I bet it has to do with your unichip's tune.
 
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no leaks, it holds a constant 19h/g at idle and at WOT it stays at 8psi. when cruising and maintaining speed it seems to stay right at 10-11h/g. ive been tempting buying denso ik22 plugs to see if maybe the ngk's are crap but they are brand new, in fact i bought 2 sets since they were so hard to find. and yes, every time i mash on the gas it does this, could a coil pack have gone bad already, would that cause all the problem, i want to get my unichip tuned just dont have $600 right now cause of the holidays!!
 
mods after unichip was the thunder v2 mani and step colder plugs, and yes when i work on my car i use the switch from unichip to turn off power to ecu, that makes the CEL go away for a couple days, but it comes back!
 
i think it was for either lean or rich mix cant remember, might need to go to autozone and have them check it again
 
I figured it was one of the two, this is definitely where a wideband would become very useful. If it's lean, you could have a vac leak somewhere or something. How is your idle? If it's rich, that will definitely cause the car to hesitate while driving.
 
no smoke, i regularly use the lucas oil fuel system and injector cleaner and always run high octane gas. i have had so many things run though my head, i.e. bad turbo, slipping clutch, head gasket failure, all the bad stuff, i am just hoping it turns out to be something really stupid and simple, have a tentative appointment with titan motorsports to have my unichip tuned and was looking to get all new gauges before hand including wideband and egt but just havent been able to yet!
 
if its a bad clutch, youll know. your RPMs will skyrocket but the car wont go.
no smoke means its probably not the turbo or head gasket, and reduces the odds that its an injector.

heres an important question: has the car always done this, or has it gotten worse lately?
where is your boost gauge connected? maybe test to make sure your BOV isnt leaking? what are your plugs gapped at? have you pulled them since the issue has come up?
 
it hasnt always done this it just seems to be the worst right now, plugs are gapped to .030 and i just checked them monday after maybe 1000 miles on them and they were still to proper gap and looked fine. boost gauge is connected to a vac source near intake not vac source from WGA. never thought about the BOV i will check to make sure its still working fine, and i will check my vac lines as well to see if i have any small leaks. just replaced most of them though so it shouldnt be that. the coils/boots/wires are maybe 3000 miles old as well so it shouldnt be that but i guess with these cras anything is possible

yudkib said:
if its a bad clutch, youll know. your RPMs will skyrocket but the car wont go.
no smoke means its probably not the turbo or head gasket, and reduces the odds that its an injector.

heres an important question: has the car always done this, or has it gotten worse lately?
where is your boost gauge connected? maybe test to make sure your BOV isnt leaking? what are your plugs gapped at? have you pulled them since the issue has come up?
Click to expand...
 
check for exhaust leaks, you said the spool of your turbo is louder, i'm assuming you have an exhaust leak. the O2 sensor will read leaner than it really is so you are prolly running crazy rich right now.
 
Unplug the hoses on TOP of the VTCS/VICS solenoids and goes for a run. It's a longshot, but it worked for me.
 
mattxhand said:
Unplug the hoses on TOP of the VTCS/VICS solenoids and goes for a run. It's a longshot, but it worked for me.
Click to expand...

if you do that you will need to put vacuum caps with the clamps on the nipples of the solenoids or you will get a vacuum leak

the solenoids are a 3 way valve. one port connects to the actuator, this is the common port. the other two ports get switched between. one of the switched ports connects to the intake manifold, the other switched port is vented to atmospheric pressure to relieve the actuator. for the purpose of describing the systems, when the solenoid is switched to atmosphere, i'll call it closed. when it's connected to the intake manifold i'll call it open.

the way the VICS and VTCS acuators work, is that at rest the VTCS butterflies are OPEN, and the VICS butterflies are CLOSED.

this is done to ensure no major running problems should the system fail

when the engine is cold and warming up the VTCS solenoid opens allowing the actuator to see vacuum and "close" the butterflies. once warmed up the solenoid stays closed.

as for the VICS - since the intake manifold pressure on an NA motor at WOT is at or near atmospheric pressure, and a boosted motor is obviously over atmospheric pressure, there is not enough vacuum to operate the actuators properly. to solve this problem there is a vacuum chamber with a check valve located under the intake manifold. what this does is hold a negative pressure inside so when the VICS solenoid opens, it is the vacuum chamber that pulls the actuator to open the butterflies.
 
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As I said, I don't know why it worked for me. I'm sure that's a logical and rational explanation. I felt like I wasn't making ANY power and as soon as 5k hit, I zoomed off. If it works, great. If not, good luck.
 
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