Throwing Codes: 2177/2187 PLEASE HELP ASAP!!

Alright guys, need some help from the gurus!!!!

I will list my mods below, but basically this week I was driving my car to work and then all the sudden I got a check engine light. I pulled the code and it came back as a P2177 and a P2187. So I got on here and on m247 trying to find answers, and I found a few answers, but really no solution as to what the hell is going on. From what I gathered, it can be an vacuum leak, a leak somewhere in the intake, fuel pump, front 02 sensor, MAF, among a few other things. Now, for the record, I put on a new boost T when I got my NGR type-s installed, and I came outside after a day or 2 and noticed that it had snapped in half. So i put my old boost T back on, which was too small and the hoses fit loosely. So I stuck it on temporarily, and then used electrical tape to hold it on real good. Car has been running fine for a few weeks, no issues, no nothing. I put on my CX front mount intercooler the first of August (same day I installed my NGR type s and new boost T) and car has been running great, NO problems whatsoever, pulls strong, great gas mileage, no codes, no stuttering, no hesitation, NOTHING. So before I left work Monday, I popped the hood tweaked around with everything, tightened all my clamps and hoses, reset the code and drove er home. So I get home and code is on again. This time, I went to advanced, got a new boost T, some zip ties, and a plastic pcv valve (the car had an injen intake on the car when I first bought it, and he rigged something up because I no longer have the fitting where the tube goes from the cobb short ram intake to the valve cover, so I made a new fitting). I noticed my vacuum was only showing 15 on my mechanical autometer boost gauge, so I figured this was the culprit (in reference to the loose boost T with electrical tape). I checked where the tape was holding the boost T on, and sure enough it was all loose and basically just fell apart. So I replaced all the connections, zip tied everything up, fired her up and vacuum was perfect again (19-20ish, 21ish while cruising and foot off the gas). Reset the code and went to bed.

So i drive to work yesterday, all is fine, no codes, etc. I leave work to head to the gym and boom engine light comes on. This time it is showing a 2177 and a 2195. WTF!? The 2195 says something about the front 02 sensor. So i check under the hood, and the little hose that goes from the nipple on the turbo inlet ( i have a medieval inlet) to the motor was loose on that little plastic fragile piece, it looked like it was hanging off. So i slid it back down and secured it, and thought this was the culprit. Drove the car home, it did fine. Woke up this morning, drove the car to work, and boom...engine light on again. This time, 2177 and 2187. Why the hell am I getting a different code each time on the 2nd one? This car is so damn finicky it drives me nuts. And here is the part that has me STUMPED. When I researched people getting these codes, almost everyone were having stuttering problems, horrible idle, hesitation, etc. The only REMOTE problem I have is it seems like the car is idling a HAIR low and I feel slight vibration (I am guessing from the motor mount). Oh, and my gas mileage has went ALL to s***. I was averaging around 27.2 to 27.3 per the trip meter in the car, and now after 3 days, its dropped all the way to 26.8 and I haven't got s*** for gas. I've only put 58 miles on it and I am already at 3/4 of a tank left when I am usually at around 100 miles at 3/4s.

I am at a loss for words and I can't find s*** wrong. I bought my car used from a dealership, and they provided all the previous maintenance records, and the guy had 4 TSB's done (with one appearing to be the fuel pump fix as I have a 2007). I bought the car with 5,995 miles on it, and I am now at around 41k miles on it.

-CX FMIC
-Cobb SRI
-Medieval turbo inlet
-ngr type s- recirc bpv
-oem turbo
-1 step colder plugs
-turbo xs dp/rp with HFC
-racing beat catback
-cobb stage 2 v1.07 93 octane
-bigdaddiesgarage rear 02 sensor defouler

Can anyone please help? I am really tight on money right now because I am closing on my first house 2 weeks from tomorrow, and I am getting married in less than 3 months, so I can't just go around buying new fuel pumps and 02 sensors and such just trying to figure out the culprit. I need to try to find the exact cause before I purchase anything. This is putting me in such a bind and is driving me nuts.

I appreciate any help, guys!

2187 is lean at idle and i get that one all the time. just clear it and you'll be fine. I get it mostly after i start the car back up after running it hard. try cleaning your maf with maf cleaner.

I'm at a loss man, so many things could be going on. I would think though if it was really your O2 sensor that you would either be seeing your tailpipe looking more black than usual (like right after cleaning it gets black) or really weak idles to the point of stalling. I am certainly not an expert by any means, but I know that mazda makes these cars run rich to keep cooler temps in the engine, so maybe those cooler temps also translate into cooler temps into the turbo and exhaust. If your ECU is miscalculating AFR maybe it could possibly cause some over heating post turbo and make your O2 sensor malfunction temporarily??, hence that code you got. Monitor AFR on your AP, if the numbers keep moving and seem to be making sense with how you're driving at the time, I would rule out the O2 sensor.

As far as your mpg's. Dropping a 1/2 mpg is no cause for concern. You have to remember that the temperatures have dropped every where across the country in the last couple of weeks. Naturally cooler air paired with your FMIC equals more fuel to compensate for denser air.

I would honestly try cleaning your MAF sensor like mentioned above. I was having horrible hesitations during acceleration, horrible gas mileage, black tailpipe, really smelly exhaust after boosting. Turns out it was just some freaking black soot on my MAF temperature thingy. Wiped it off with a q-tip and no more codes. Best of luck

i had this same problem with my 3 and what it is the maf wiring harness belive it or not they do explode and do not work so go to auto zone and pick up a maf wiring harness for 90 bucks or so and wire it in make sure to plug the new one in and cut and sauder the wires together and this should fix your problem good luck time to repair is about 45 min just depends on how well you can sauder wires that's all

this code has been bother me a very lone time, i still dealing with this code today. it keep coming on and off, i guess tunning will fix my problem. according to ur problem i would check for leak, use seafoam to spray on it to see if there is a leak? is really hard to find out where is leaking since u have so many modds...then go for 02sensor, u could take it out and have a shop testing it to c does it still doing its job??

I've also been getting these two codes. I went through and rechecked all my connections on after-market parts, just made sure couplers were all tight still, and checked the hoses going to the boost control module.
If it's a small leak, you could use carb cleaner and spray it where you suspect a leak. (while engine is running) engine will rev if any carb cleaner leaks in.
+1 on cleaning the MAF...

What seemed to fix it for me though is cleaning out the throttle body and re sealing the gasket on my BOV.

Here is my post of my process of trying to figure out my problem. Might be something useful to you in there since we had same code (p2177)

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123784356-Low-Boost-and-check-engine-Light

your overlooking a vacuum leak somewhere. i had to use a leak detection smoke machine to find a small leak in one of the plastic fittings connecting two vacuum lines. check the main clamp that holds your inlet pipe to your turbo. if all else fail take the entire intake system off and visually check every part, line fitting... and then re-install it. make sure and have your bov 100% recirculating back into your intake too. good luck and try not to get frustrated cause that will make it harder to find the problem, maybe have a friend come double check it while your working on it, its good to have an extra set of eyes.

thanks for the replies guys. After searching, I was told that it was the Purge Valve solenoid or whatever its called. Ordered it, installed yesterday...and car is still not fixed. Matter of fact the car is doing awful. Its like it is progressively getting worse. The car stumbles at idle, I try pulling out in traffic, the damn car sputters and feels like its gonna stall and die, then it goes back to normal. Engine light is back on, same 2177 and I have 2195 now (a/f is too rich). I am sooo over this s***. 3 weeks now and I haven't hit boost in over a month. I am struggling to keep a 325 hp car running normal just to get to work. This is killing me. My dad suggested a clogged up/melted cat because my exhaust its throwing out small little white balls of stuff at idle, and it sounds like something inside my muffler area...like a tinging/rock type of sound - hard to explain. I am gonna put my factory pipe back on tomorrow. The only thing I can think that it is, is maybe the front 02 sensor. That is A LOT of money, and I want to narrow it down before I go and drop that much money. I am so sick of this s*** I can't stand it. I just want my speed back . On my way home this evening, I turn to come up the hill coming into the neighborhood, and its like the car was running out of gas, and it was choking/chugging like it was fighting to stay running. I had to pull off to the side of the road and let the car behind me go on pass, and then like that, car was back to normal. It is like it comes and goes, I don't understand it. AHHHHHHHHHHHHH

I almost didn't make it to work this morning. When I pull out from a stop light, the car chugs like it is stalling, and rpms will drop so low that it almost stalls, but then flashes back up, then back down, then back up, and its making these backfiring noises and popping. Dad said it sounded like the car is dumping in way too much fuel (which it is, I have a 2195 code....a/f too rich). Would a bad front 02 sensor cause the car to drive THIS bad? I mean its so bad the car can hardly get out of its own way. Talk about embarassing, I had traffic backed up behind me this morning try to pull out from a stop light and I am stuck in middle of intersection and the car is popping cracking reving, rpms dropping, stalling, bucking, etc. Weird thing is, after it gets up to speed, it does OKAY...not perfect, but okay. Interstate it does pretty smooth, but soon as rpms and speed starts coming back down, the car starts bucking again. I have got to try to figure this out asap. I don't have another car, and I am out of warranty, so I gotta figure something out, and figure out a way to leave it with a mazda stealership or something. I've never been to a mazda dealer since I owned the car (bought it used from a chrysler stealership), so I don't know what to expect. This problem is taking years off my life, so tempted to find a quick fix and trade the piece of s*** off.

i feel u man, i got the same problem never fix it yet... and my s*** is getting worst too!! **** someone with knowledge chime this s*** up man!!!

Hey guys did u all do a fuel pressure test to verify high pressure pump functions correctly ,note u also need to check maf sensor & front o2s sensor function ,note code p2187 has a lot of possible causes to set this code so check the basics first ,other causes could be pressure regulator ,fuel pressure sensor ,relief valve ,spill valve ,insufficient engine compression ,variable valve timing control system & pcm ,one of those sensors may be malfunctioning ,so check the basics first,good luck.

Well guys I believe I got my car fixed. I bit the bullet, ordered a new OEM front 02 sensor, and car has been driving like a charm since I installed on saturday. All the previous symptoms are gone. I also traded my cobb ap for a hypertech, and tuned it after I was done. Much better

good to heard that, now is my turn... i failed the emission today and founded out i have 3 codes...p0456,p0301,p2187. filled the tank up in full today and started the car up engine just rough like almost died out once i gave a lil rev its doing fine again.... could this be purge valve?? this really **** me up i and i need help, anyone please..!!!

also my gas milage is horrible too.....

thats exactly what mine was doing...I changed the purge valve, and it did not help, so I ordered the FRONT 02 sensor plugged her up, I've put over 100 miles on the car now and no engine lights and car is running like normal.

MS3 GT said:

good to heard that, now is my turn... i failed the emission today and founded out i have 3 codes...p0456,p0301,p2187. filled the tank up in full today and started the car up engine just rough like almost died out once i gave a lil rev its doing fine again.... could this be purge valve?? this really **** me up i and i need help, anyone please..!!!

Click to expand...

I have been getting this every time I fill up too, lately. Either the car will shut off completely or REALLY bog and chug for a few seconds, then recover. After that initial choking it is fine though. Very annoying, and I know it can't be good for the car. Guess I'll have to take it in and see what kind of bulls*** answer I get from the dealership.

i have the same codes... p2177/p2187/p2097 and now i have p2195 I found and fixed a few leaks but now the codes are back again... no sputter or bugging tough. I really don't want to change the o2 for nothing. the bugger is still under warrenty i just hope that my bov/cai intake is not the problem. I reinstalled all twice fixing some leaks but codes are still back

The stealership where i bought my car and had my boost gauge installed closed. They had 3 really good mazdaspeed mechanics. There is an other reputable Stealership around... hope they are good and they dont give me s*** about my mods.(cai/bpv/boost gauge)

for those who ask why i paid the stealership for the gauge install, it was to make sure i have no warrenty issue. I had a good relationship with service manager and he shaved some time off the bill.

edit: it seems that i begin to have sputter and bugging when cold start it.

edit 2: Now i have lots of sputter over 4k rpm when it rain... seem like a wiring problem. Any idea?

at the stealership today

(nailbyt)

HPFP changed according to a service bulletin for my VIN range (early 2007). No code back yet. Hope its really fixed this time. I have my doubt tough.

There was no signs of fuel starving from my butt dyno experience. I hope they prove me wrong

Issues like these are probably sensor related. If you have removed the O2 sensor there is a good chance you damaged it during removal. They are rather delicate. We have found that in cars with a wideband that if you remove the O2 sensor, you will probably end up having to replace it 50% of the time. The torque to remove it is enough to kill it. It looks like you need a new O2 sensor.

Travis
COBB Tuning

i'm also thinking its a sensor... I didnt mess with any of them exept the MAF wich i swapped from the stock box to my CAI 3 years ago.

Dealership must follow the procedure

Anyway i'm glad to have a new HPFP since the early 2007 models tend to have failing ones.