Rear Shock Replacement

J

Jolly-John

Member
:
Mazda CX-9
Hi. I'm about to replace the rear shocks on my 2007 CX-9. Unlike some other Mazdas, this vehicle has a single mounting stud at the top of the shock. This upper mounting stud "disappears" into an area above the wheel welll. Do I have to remove one of the vehicle's rear side interior panels to access the nut on this stud? I didn't want to start tearing into things without getting some input from someone who has done this rather simple replacement. Any info will be appreciated.

It would also be great to get the torque specs for the lower mounting bolt and the upper mounting nut. Thanks! John in Wisconsin
 
Hi, John:

Send me a PM with email address.
I will see if I can send you some pages from WorkShop manual.
How to access the nuts and the torque specs.
 
ceric:
No details needed, just curious what is involved replacing rear shocks? Can you summarize? Thanks in advance!!!
 
Maybe Jolly-John can give us a summary of his experiences later.
I have sent him the pages.
 
Hi, Guys. I will definitely post a summary after I do the work. I received the shop manual pages from Eric, and am waiting for the KYB factory replacement shocks to arrive. John in Wisconsin
 
My knowledge of the works of the Madza is my short fall. Changing shocks on older or American made cars I have no problem but do I have to dismantle my 2007 cx9 to replace the rear shocks? The top nut laying on the floor can't see how to get to the top nut on the shock. I did a search on Madza and saw where another person had the same question some time back. Help please or I will have to yield to the dealer.
 
DavidHill said:
My knowledge of the works of the Madza is my short fall. Changing shocks on older or American made cars I have no problem but do I have to dismantle my 2007 cx9 to replace the rear shocks? The top nut laying on the floor can't see how to get to the top nut on the shock. I did a search on Madza and saw where another person had the same question some time back. Help please or I will have to yield to the dealer.
Click to expand...

See this thread:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123818078-New-Struts-Shocks-Installed
 
I'm having the same issue on a 2008 CX 9, how do you access the top of the rear shock?
 
IMG_1442.PNGIMG_1443.PNG

a friend of mine helped with Rearshock replacement last week. you literally will have to take a part rear side of the car interior and third row seats inorder to get to the Two bolt. Not sure why Mazda designed it this way, Mazda should have simply just gave a panel to access the Nut. i used KYB aftermarket and very happy with handling. the entire process took 3-1/2 hours. attached are few pics.
 
Awesome75 said:
View attachment 208427View attachment 208428

a friend of mine helped with Rearshock replacement last week. you literally will have to take a part rear side of the car interior and third row seats inorder to get to the Two bolt. Not sure why Mazda designed it this way, Mazda should have simply just gave a panel to access the Nut. i used KYB aftermarket and very happy with handling. the entire process took 3-1/2 hours. attached are few pics.
Click to expand...

Someone had mentioned in this thread or the other related thread that they could get away with removing the bolts holding in the rear of the panels and then bending the panels to get to the strut mounts. This is the route I went and it took me about 20 minutes to do the second side once I knew how to go about it (the first side was a long process of trial and error). If you go this route of only partially removing the panels, be very careful about dropping any bolts or sockets because they are tough to retrieve. I agree that Mazda should have designed in an access panel!
 
Im also in need of replacing my rear shocks on my 2008 cx-9. Anyone have any manual/instructions they can share? Also, will a simple jack work, and also is torquing absolutely necessary?
 
I did mine last year on my 08. Was not hard but was not exactly fun because I had to take out the interior everything in back of the center row. Side trim panels, 3rd row seat, all the rear floor trim panels & containers, all had to go. I tried loosening the trim panels but failed to successfully do the project the the trim panels in. They had to come out completely. Pretty straightforward setup really. shock has a post on top that slides through the car, has a rubber insulator on the exterior of the vehicle (in the wheel well), and then has another rubber insulator on the inside of the car, with a washer on top, and 2 nuts. First nut tightens down the washer and sandwiches the rubber insulators. I went out and bought an inch-pound torque wrench since I only had a foot pound wrench. It was about 20 or 30 bucks at O'reilleys. But to answer the question of do you NEED the wrench? ehhh probly not. I can't see any reason you cant just hand tighten it til it feels pretty tight. Just don't undertighten it because rubber shrinks in cold and over time so if that thing comes loose, I bet it would make a lot of noise bobbing up and down. Just make sure the rubber insulators are squished good.
 
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