open loop and close loop

ok so when my car is warming up i get bad air to fuel ratios, but the second the needle hits the middle of the gauge (temp sensor) i get awesome afrs, it sounds to me that the car is only running solely on one loop, either open or close i am unaware of the difference just that there is one that runs on preset maps and another that runs on the sensors i believe? you guys know how i could fix this? as sometimes boost is imperative when going up a steep hill and theres one right outside my development before the needle even moves.

had this issue with a bad O2. Any CELS?

if its while its warming up, its in open loop. i wouldnt even know where to look for that... is it lean or rich? and youre a little vague as to when it happens... define "warm up". theres three seperate systems that all warm up:
-O2 sensors warm up using a resistive element
-engine warms up (why it starts at like 1600 RPM and slowly goes down to idle at like 600)
-thermostat first opens meaning coolant inside the block has warmed up.

it sounds like its the end of the engine-warm up cycle, around when the tstat first opens. start the car totally cold, and see if its when your idle is back to normal, when the water temp is all the way up, or what.

i do have a CEL its for bank 1 rich, still cant get rid of it. and what im saying is that the car feels like its running on a one loop system, because when i go WOT before the car warms up i get afrs in the 14s when in boost (baaaaaddd) and once the car warms up ALL THE WAY, it cant be a few degrees off it HAS to warm up all the way to where the needle will not get any higher unless my water pump goes then i get my good AFRs between 11-12

Get the specs for a properly functioning Coolant Temp Sensor. A lot of cars have two of these. One Simply reads temp, and sends that signal to the "dummy" gauge on the dash.

The other actually interacts with the ECU, telling it that the coolant is the proper temp for operation, and then pending that signal, the car enters closed loop and begins to utilize others engine sensors to function normally.

This is just a guess, but sounds possible seeing as though you have what seems to be a coolant temperature dependent issue. I never noticed this problem, because I was OCD about how long I let the car warm up before boosting