Alamo1's P5-T Build

Oh boy. I'm scared to say.

Mazdaspeed Exhaust Manifold $200 plus one of my co-workers to weld the cracks the guy didn't tell me about.
GT2560R Turbocharger $225
turbolife Front Mount Intercooler $650
HKS SSQV Blow-off Valve $150
DocB Customized Oil Pump $150
DocB External Oil Pressure Relief Valve $150
eBay Oil Filter Relocate Kit $50
Flashed MSP ECU #9 .... Thanks to SpicyorangeMSP $150
Air Conditioning Delete FREE! but alot of complaining from my wife.
AWR Front and Rear Motormounts w/ Side Inserts $100 plus complaints like above

Drivetrain
Clutch Masters FX400 6 Puck Sprung Kit $600
B&M Short Throw Shifter $125

Interior
Custom Dual gauge cluster surround $200
Autometer ES Series Boost/Vac Gauge $185
Autometer ES Series Oil Pressure Gauge $185

Exterior
3M Headlight Restoration $30
Racinghart MP3 Rims $400

Suspension
Tokico Illumina Struts $1150
Espelir "Active Super Down" Springs $350

Still Requiring Installation
ForceFed Column Gauge pod $50
Mazdaspeed Limited-slip Differential $100
Mazda OEM Intake Manifold (VTCS/VICS Delete) FREE less the time I've got into it
Mazda OEM Polished Valve Cover FREE but like above
Pope 3" DownPipe $300
Sleeper GT3071R FREE less the time I have into it
Microtech LT10S $1000
Stock block that STILL needs to be built $150 for a full long block, oil pan to valve cover from the scrap yard.

So about 6650 give or take. That's what's in the car less all shipping costs and time it took me to install. The car was $6200 in december of 2008.

Granted these are all rough estimates, and do not cover the need for more tools, stuff like bolts and wiring, the $1500 I paid for the laptop to eventually tune the car with.... The list goes on.
 
So I turned up he boost some more and now I'm having issues. When cruising, even in vac I let off he gas and the turkey comes. Thats not the worst of it but only a symptom of a larger issue. The problem comes in the fact that when I let off after being in boost, not shifting mind you, the turkey is pretty bad and then the car bucks. Almost like if it werent still in gear it would stall. I am recirculating so the only thing in can think is that the PVC plumbing elbow I'm using is too restrictive and won't let enough air out of the charge piping in time then I get bad compressor surge.

Any thoughts?
 
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no, its the non adjustable. It worked fine for recirc at 5psi but now at a solid 7 to spiking 8, it turkeys like a mofo and the car lags immediately after.
 
Relocated the MAF today! Holy hell that makes alot of difference. No more bogging after hot sitting at lights. No more turkey. No more shudder at low boost blow off on he highway. Louder and crisper bov sound. Even feels like it pulls better. Its a win, win, win... Praise the lord for people on the local boards doing amazing tig welding for dirt cheap!



 
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As requested, a pic of the setup..... It was in the garage at night so the flash only picks up so much....

 
Tried some 30mm spacers on wednesday. Front looked like it worked pretty well but the back was just a little too much.





Any suggestions as to what sizes would get me completely flat with the fenders?
 
25mm would prob match the fronts perfectly. if it still pokes out too much, you could maybe dial in a degree of camber and you'll be set
 
I use 5mm with FD rims and 245 Kumho V710's. It all depends on your wheel offset and tire size.

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245s? what else do you have done to fit those? I have 225/50s with my FDs and had to raise the car up and roll the fenders.....
 
I had to raise the ride height of the coil-overs somewhat to get the proper clearances. Keep in mind that these are my track tires. My streets are 215's on +45 offset.

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