HOW TO: Replace Valve Cover Gasket

So I recently had to replace my valve cover gasket due to a leaky one and I figured why not do a write up at the same time

Supplies needed:
- New gasket
- RTV silicone (optional)
- Supplies for an oil change

So this is where you start




First you are going to need to cut the zip-tie holders that hold the part of the wiring harness to the cover itself:




Next you need to disconnect FOUR electrical connections so disconnect the battery and then disconnect the connections. The one on the bottom is a little hard to see but it connects to the PS pump and has no clip you simply pull it off.




Next you need to remove FOUR bolts, two on each of the number 2 and number 4 spark plug tubes.




Then you can pull out the spark plug tubes and move the wiring harness out of your way toward the intake manifold




Then you need to disconnect two more connections to the cover. Not sure what the names are but you can see what they are from the picture




Then you can remove the ELEVEN bolts that hold the cover to the head of the engine. Remove them in the order indicated. SEVEN is hard to see but trust me it is still there Im not sure if it is necessary but I used a pencil to mark each one so that it went back in the same hole when reinstalling the cover.




Then remove the cover




Probably a good idea to keep the open engine covered with a clean rag




Then remove the old gasket. I also cleaned the inside of the cover with parts cleaner for good measure. (it is still dirty in the picture however)




Then clean the surface where the gasket will seat. Some Brakleen and a lint free cloth does the job. Also clean the sharp corners where indicated of sealant and (optional part place a dab of RTV silicone in each corner




Then reseat the new gasket in the cover itself and use your finger to spread some motor oil along the new gasket where it will sit on the head. Carefully place the cover back on the head so as not to cause the gasket to fall away from the cover and seat improperly. (You can also paint your cover like I did while its off the car). Then just reverse the order for removal to get it all hooked up again. It is also a good idea to re-tighten the cover bolts after the first drive due to the gasket squishing down from the heat.




Finally perform an oil change due to contaminants that may have gotten into the engine while uncovered.

There ya go, no more leaky valve cover

Very nice sleezer. A perfect how-to. Hopefully it gets moved to the how-to forum or at least copied. The new cover looks great. Good choice.

Thanks man, I went back and forth for days between red with black and black with red, but the back with red looks best I think

Nice post man!

you the man sleezer

it looks great to me , and the same almost as my 2000 protoge. i am not that handy to tell you the truth, but i think I can do this.

great how-to buddy..

very informative.

good job!

I wouldn't cut the zip ties. It is pretty easy to take a small flat head screw driver and unzip them. That way they can be used when you put the VC back on.

I didn't paint mine though, so I don't know if they can be removed from the VC for painting and reinstalled.

battery

why does this battery have to be disconnected ?

throsorator said:

why does this battery have to be disconnected ?

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It's just a safety precaution, although probably unnecessary. Technically, you're supposed to disconnect the battery anytime you unbolt or unplug anything on the car.

To the OP, good write up - there is one point I would disagree with you on though. You say that the sealant in the corners near your cams are optional, but I think it's necessary (the manual agrees). The reason they have you do this is because corners like that are very hard to seal with gaskets, and if it doesn't seal because you didn't use RTV silicone, you're gonna have a leak into your timing belt area.

If this happens, it's bad news, because a)you won't be able to tell it's leaking and b)it could ruin your timing belt.

Well thats my general consensus and I did use some, but may people on this forum claim that it is totally unnecessary. Thats why I decided to list it as optional.

Sleezer1533 said:

Well thats my general consensus and I did use some, but may people on this forum claim that it is totally unnecessary. Thats why I decided to list it as optional.

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For the cost of a tube of RTV, and again, the fact that the manual says to use it, I think it'd be dumb not to use it.

Hey ur preaching to the quire here. Like I said I used some, But there was a lot of feedback I got when researching how to do it of people saying not to even bother with it.

Sleezer1533 said:

Hey ur preaching to the quire here. Like I said I used some, But there was a lot of feedback I got when researching how to do it of people saying not to even bother with it.

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No, I know - I'm more addressing the people who read your how-to. I don't know who gave you that feedback, but they are wrong, and I'm not afraid to say it. (rockon)

what is the torque on those bolts when replacing?

Hmm I cant remember. 14 in/lbs I want to say but don't quote me. I just use the ol hand tighten and then 1/16th to 1/4r of a turn more rule.

THANKS again sleazer

i am 30 min away from putting newly painted back on. how do I send you photo?

The best way is to post it here in the thread so others can see it too. By doing that you need to upload the photo (I use photobucket) then copy the direct link of the uploaded photo from photo bucket in a new post here using the photo button (next the the hyperlink button).

Or you can email it to me, if u wanna do that then PM me and ill send you my e-mail

will send you Before and After tomorrow, thursday . running out of time today.

Cool man, cant wait to see how it came out

Sleezer1533 said:

Cool man, cant wait to see how it came out

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i sent pm, if you did not get it, let me know. photos ready, but I am having trouble uploading pics.