2007~2015 How to get to the CX-9 spark plugs?

I have a 2011 cx-9 AWD. Am I reading this correctly that you need to remove the exhaust manifold to replace the plugs on the back side of the engine?

Also I'm looking for a torque wrench... seems most of the 3/8" drive do not go low enough (most only go down to 13.6 Nm). I found one that is the proper range, but it is 1/4" drive. That doesn't seem like something I want. Any suggestions on torque wrenches?
 
Thanks. I meant intake manifold, not sure why I said exhaust.

Thanks for the wrench recommendations. About double the Pittsburgh Pro. I used to swear by Craftsman, but I imagine it's still better than Pittsburgh tools.

Local mechanic quoted me $300 labor to replace the plugs, which doesn't sound bad (at $90 per hour). I mean -- it sounds like a ton, but given the work I guess it isn't. However, he has quoted $139 for 6 plugs. I'm not sure where he is sourcing them, but Med Mazda has them for $50 a set.
 
I was told that when i have my plugs on my 2014 replaced at 60k miles that I should also have 3 rear ignition coils and a PCV replaced as long as the plugs are out. Does that make sense?

Same guy told me to change the differential fluid and transfer case fluid at 60K. Any opinions?

thanks much
 
I was told that when i have my plugs on my 2014 replaced at 60k miles that I should also have 3 rear ignition coils and a PCV replaced as long as the plugs are out. Does that make sense?

Same guy told me to change the differential fluid and transfer case fluid at 60K. Any opinions?

thanks much

Who told you this? It's not true at all as far as I know.
 
Thanks for this DIY writeup and all those who contributed pictures and hints.

With this guide, I was able to change mines in about 2 hours - taking my time. I would suggest getting some blue painter's tape and wrap hoses that you disconnect with it. Also removing the battery will aid in making the job easier. Make sure to not break the coil plug's red locking tabs or it might cause the connection to be a little loose and not send correct voltage to potentially cause a misfire. My '07 with 150k had some red tabs that were a little brittle because of heat and age and they broke, causing the connection to the coils to not be as secured as I liked.

I had to perform the spark plug replacements as part of a bad PCM causing coils and spark plugs to go bad and causing multiple cylinder misfires (known issue http://am.mazdaserviceinfo.com/mazdaesi/index?page=detail_pagelet&id=TSB439&actionPrint=print)
 
Thanks to the forum New Plugs and Coils

Adding my thanks. I printed out the descriptions and pictures and was able to change all 6 plugs and coils in about 4 hours. That is to say 15 minutes for the front 3 and most of the rest of the time struggling with the intake manifold. The tips helped tremendously. The CX-9 is now running smoothly and no more hesitation on the hill to our house.
 
Could someone else do a write up with pictures, please?!

Pictures are not available anymore. I struggle without them. Is there anyone that could help? I am new to the club :)

Thank you,
Joe
 
I don't have pix step by step. But start by taking out the snorkel and airbox. If you need instructions for that, do not do your own plugs. Take engine cover off. It simply unsnaps after removing oil cap. Put cap back on. After engine cover is off, time to remove intake manifold. Lots of bolts here. I replaced the manifold gaskets but you COULD reuse them. From there unbolt coils and replace plugs. Do NOT jump the gun. Let the engine COMPLETELY cool before unthreading spark plugs. Not even warm. We are talking overnight. Not worth crossthreading your aluminum head. Btw the service manual is also available.
 
Hi Davicho,

I saw your post on changing spark plugs for the CX-9. I have a 2009 CX-9 with 103K miles. I figured it was time to change the spark plugs. I followed your instructions which was the same as some you tube videos I also found. I believe I did it right but now I'm having very high RPM's when idling. At first, it was 5000 RPM's but has calmed down to 2200 RPM's. I was also getting allot of exhaust when it was running high. Im thinking a vacuum leak somewhere or maybe PCV valve?? I hooked up a basic OBD scanner and all it gave me were engine and transmission components. There were no codes beyond that so thats useless. I also noticed the oil was low prior to the spark plug change but I'm not sure if its burning oil or not as I had a garage change the oil. I don't have a CEL. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Bummer! Sorry to hear. First thing that comes to mind is throttle body. You double check everything? Dirty connector, is the crankcase ventilation tube snapped in securely? You gapped those plugs to the right amount? Intake tube ring tightened at the throttle body? Have you tried removing battery again? I would tend to agree with vacuum leak or throttle body issue. Every rpm issue with my old vw's a long time ago was always throttle body or vacuum line related. Course don't forget when the cx9 is cold it will idle a little high for the first minute or so. Hope it is something simple for you. I have about 18k since plug change without issue knock on wood.
 
Has anyone had to change it on their 2016+ CX-9? I just hit 40,000 on mine and the dealer quoted me $235 to change the spark plugs in what they call a tune up. I believe I can do this myself if this is all they are doing. Does anyone have any tips for the 2016+ or instructions?
 
Has anyone had to change it on their 2016+ CX-9? I just hit 40,000 on mine and the dealer quoted me $235 to change the spark plugs in what they call a tune up. I believe I can do this myself if this is all they are doing. Does anyone have any tips for the 2016+ or instructions?

Regardless of the year I have a hard time believing that you would need plugs until at least 60,000 miles. I have a real problem with the 'service advisors' who are actually as bad or worse than the sales people on the floor. I cannot tell you the number of times I have heard about them pitching services way too early. I won't even go into the useless things they recommend. Sadly the service department is as commission driven as any other part of the dealership. I would check your factory maintenance manual and stick with the recommendations of the manufacturer and not some sales person looking to separate you from your money.
 

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