Head gasket installation need help!!!

As I mentioned in my earlier post are you using 13.5 to 16.5 lb ft as a final torque value? The bolts will not stretch and seal the head gasket if you don't complete sequence.

Mark bolts. Turn 85-95 degrees in the tightening sequence.
Tighten the bolts 85-95 degrees one more time to complete the bolt stretching procedure.

Clifton
 
used 16 ft-lbs then 90 degrees, 90 degrees

compression test results
cylinder 1: 160, 2: 120, 3: 110, 4: 150

it's assumed that the block is bad. cylinder 3 piston sleeve probably has a small fracture and after removing the spark plug, it looked like there was oil and water in it.

is it more cost efficient to take the block to a machine shop for repair or just buy a new block?
 
The block deck needs to be checked to determine if it can be repaired. The FS engine manual states that only 0.20 mm (0.008 in.) max. can be removed from the block deck.

If the deck surface is the only problem with the block, skimming the deck by a machine shop would cost less than buying a new block. I don't know if they could repair it without removing the pistons. It would be a good idea to talk with a machine shop for suggestions and approximate cost.

Clifton
 
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If it is repairable even at a slighty higher cost than a new used block I would repair it.Better to have a like new block than a guessing and exchanging game with a junkyard.
 
^x2. Yeah.

Sorry about the issues. I feel for ya'... That is a whole lot of work to see it still needs more...
 
sephiroth said:
If it is repairable even at a slighty higher cost than a new used block I would repair it.Better to have a like new block than a guessing and exchanging game with a junkyard.
Click to expand...

Personally, I would quit putting stuff on your head gaskets and see if that helps. Every head gasket I've ever done has been installed dry.
 
Ah, I thought the torques were what we were supposed to tighten to, and the 90 degree turns were the preferred method to get to that torque setting. Also, when I say I torque them to dead center I mean when it says 13.5-16.5 I torque it to 15. I'll start aiming for the upper end and then do the 90 degree thing correctly.

So I'll torque them all correctly and then do the 180 degree turn. That'll make a difference. Thanks.
 
ahhhh reinstalled it and gave it new torques 90, 180. but after looking in piston #3, it is confirmed that theres oil and water in it... I've put in a lot of work into the engine, but i think im giving up and just gonna replace the engine.

I found a whole engine for 800$ with 55,000mi on it and a mechanic that would do the swap for 800$ so im looking at 1600$.

I havent pulled the block out yet just because i dont really have the tools to pull it out (cherry picker or jack)

i could always make some money back by selling the old engine parts (except the block) haha
 
you put silicone on the head gasket?! you need a new gasket, spray "Copper Spray-a-gasket" on it for sealing purposes, but not RTV. never RTV.
 
I read the whole thing :)

Can someone direct me to a 2003 Mazda Protege 5, 2.0L head gasket DIY and/or a workshop manual? Something better than the Canadian Hayne's manual.

Thanks
 
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What's the difference between the ZM & FS ?

I'm not new too car repairs, but haven't worked on a Mazda since the late 80's.
 
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