D Prepared Miata Build
- Thread starter aMaff
- Start date
I was going to when I tested it on Dave's truck, which I DID scrape on when unloading. Apparently the hitch is a little taller with the Pathfinder. I haven't had any issue with it. Since those boards are like $25 a piece, I didn't really have a need to lift the deck any more. No matter what I'm going to have 15s as transport / rain tires (I can't even get out of my garage on the 13s...), so it's basically a non-issue at this point.
thats not bad then i know i hear stories of people buying super lightweight batteries and them not being very reliable
Well yeah. I wouldn't expect any reliability without some sort of trickle charge on a car that's not driven that frequently. You can't expect a 6lb battery to perform in the "real world" the same as a full-size with 300 CCA.
You're going to us a Megasquirt ECU? They're a really good way to go, but have you built/used one before? Have you looked at the MicroSquirt? As long as you're going lightweight... (evil) It also uses a nice AMPSEAL connector, not the goddamn DB37, and is weatherproof.
I've worked on several MS cars, PM me if you'd like any help.
I've worked on several MS cars, PM me if you'd like any help.
No I have not. However Kevin (kchbiw on here, that lives about 45 minutes from me) has built & developed several, and if I'm not mistaken has mine mostly done already 
. I do appreciate the offer, and will likely take it up at some point as I come up to speed with getting the drive-ability settings dialed in (cold startup / warmup enrichments and what not)
. I do appreciate the offer, and will likely take it up at some point as I come up to speed with getting the drive-ability settings dialed in (cold startup / warmup enrichments and what not)
Last edited:
Nice, good luck! I'd definitely invest in a netbook to work on the MS. You can even connect the MS to a blue-tooth adapter (or even a wifi adapter iirc) to tune/datalog wirelessly, though it took some fiddling to get either to work. A netbook could also make a nice auxiliary dash, and would be a hell of a lot cheaper than buying all the gauges it could replace!
eh, I have a netbook but the thought of having a standard hard-drive working on a full-time race car is just asking for a drive head crash. I've got a laptop to use for logging w/ a serial port, so while it may be the more cave-manly approach, it'll work and won't cost anything over what I've already got in it
Make sure your trickle charger has an AGM setting. The $5 trickle charger from HF is not AGM compatible.
An AGM setting will allow the charger to "cycle-down" and not overcharge/explode the battery (AGM type). At least that is from my understanding.
You could just install a kill-switch. Which is really easy to do and you can mount it to the roll cage like we did with the Spec.
An AGM setting will allow the charger to "cycle-down" and not overcharge/explode the battery (AGM type). At least that is from my understanding.
You could just install a kill-switch. Which is really easy to do and you can mount it to the roll cage like we did with the Spec.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
highly highly recommend this. I have had a couple people buy these per my recommendation (you see them all the time on the DIY auto tv shows) and they love them.
highly highly recommend this. I have had a couple people buy these per my recommendation (you see them all the time on the DIY auto tv shows) and they love them.
I agree. I don't have a $5 trickle charger, but do have a battery tender (see below
). It's already brought the miata battery back to life a few times (oops...) and works great. But yeah, with the lightweight battery I'll have to be pretty diligent about that.RE Kill switch: It's definitely a planned future upgrade, but it's one more thing to spend money on right now. At this point it's not a "need" item, so I'll get to that probably when I find one on a stupid sale from Summit or Pegasus or any of the other numerous race-part shops that send me newsletters lol
Yep, that's what I've got
I agree. I don't have a $5 trickle charger, but do have a battery tender (see below
RE Kill switch: It's definitely a planned future upgrade, but it's one more thing to spend money on right now. At this point it's not a "need" item, so I'll get to that probably when I find one on a stupid sale from Summit or Pegasus or any of the other numerous race-part shops that send me newsletters lol
Yep, that's what I've got
So that tender is about $27. The kill switch is $18. Eat some Ramen Noodles for a day and buy one you cheap bastage. lol
http://www.discoveryparts.com/cgi-b...art_id=1273204199.231&product=battery&pid=448
Why did I think the kill-switches were in the $100+ range? Cool deal
I'll sell you one for $99.
See, there is a reason why you keep me around.
WTF? You're going to trailer your car to events, then still have to swap wheels on-site? UR d00in it rong.
Problem is that with the 13's the car is so low that I can't even get it out of the garage, much less up onto a flat-bed trailer. With an enclosed, super-low deck trailer this wouldn't be a problem.
You should definitely go that direction then.
Maybe get a new house too, to fix that garage issue?
You should definitely go that direction then.
Maybe get a new house too, to fix that garage issue?
lol yeah sure. You buyin?
