D Prepared Miata Build

Thats the one(pictured) most of the continental tire challenge guys run..the rolex guys use the aerocatch ones(they were a pain in the ass, especially when you were in a rush to get the car out on track or something...)
 
Ah, gotcha. When I saw them this weekend I knew I'd seen 'em before but a) didn't really take too much notice of them in the past and b) I couldn't place where I'd seen them before. You say the AeroCatches are a pain? I didn't really see that coming lol. Are they just harder to line up or what?
 
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They are a little harder to line up when you are setting them up, but sometimes they were just a little finicky if you didnt close the hood exactly right. Nothing a little smack wouldnt fix...but still something else to slow you down when you are thrashing on the car. But for the price difference I dont think they would be worth it for the low speeds of autox.

The Koni challenge style ones were usually riveted on instead of screwed on like in the pic, that might just have been cause that was easier for the teams than finding the right size screw. Or maybe cause of the vibrations, rivets cant really work themselves loose...
 
Ah, gotcha. When I saw them this weekend I knew I'd seen 'em before

CDOC trailer thats always out at Road Atlanta is where i have seen these before i was contemplating it when i had the CF hood on the msp.
 
They are a little harder to line up when you are setting them up, but sometimes they were just a little finicky if you didnt close the hood exactly right. Nothing a little smack wouldnt fix...but still something else to slow you down when you are thrashing on the car. But for the price difference I dont think they would be worth it for the low speeds of autox.
Yeah, and if they hold up to Continental Tire Challenge speeds, they're fine for me lol

The Koni challenge style ones were usually riveted on instead of screwed on like in the pic, that might just have been cause that was easier for the teams than finding the right size screw. Or maybe cause of the vibrations, rivets cant really work themselves loose...
I was actually thinking about doing that lol. They come with those screws and 'backing plates' for all the screws. I'll probably go that route starting off then if there's ever an issue, just rivet them in.
 
I got mine from Amazon. And I got some nuts/bolts/washers instead of using the sheet metal screws. I'll let you look at them a little closer next time.

And you just want to copy me with the red.
 
I got mine from Amazon. And I got some nuts/bolts/washers instead of using the sheet metal screws. I'll let you look at them a little closer next time.
Cool, I'd appreciate it. That with some locktite would probably be excellent.

And you just want to copy me with the red.
Well, there were 3 options: Red, Blue and Chrome. I didn't want the chrome, the blue would look weird on the black car, and I like red (because I'm a closet ricer).

But you know, also because I wanted some of the Ninja to rub off on my car too (sad2)
 
More parts :D. The ISC Quick Release came in today. I'm a fan of the design, but the fit & finish leave a bit to be desired. I realize building a Prepared class car, not everything's going to be bolt on, so a little fab work won't kill me, but when something IS supposed to be bolt on, I usually expect it to be. I had to hog out a couple of the holes with a dremmel between the halves that mount the quick-release hex mount to the steering column adapter out because they weren't drilled just right, but now they fit fine.

The other issue is the bolts that came with the Miata Cage steering wheel adapter aren't the right thread pitch, so I'm going to have to go by the LowesDepot to pick up the right ones. I kinda wish the right ones were just included in with the adapter, but that's not really anyone's fault.

Anyway, pics of how it'll all go together (it actually looks a lot better than it does in these pics, the flash picked up a crapload of dust from the packing materials that I hadn't cleaned off yet):

The splined adapter that fits onto the steering column splines, and the stock steering wheel bolt goes over that.
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The hex adapter
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The quick release
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Steering Wheel adapter that mates the quick-release's 3 bolt pattern to a Momo 6 bolt steering wheel
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As I said, I'm fairly impressed with the design, as this is easily, by a long way, the slimmest steering wheel hub / adapter I've seen for the Miata. Most of them move the wheel up at least 3 or 4 inches, plus the depth of the quick release. This one's only about 3/4 inch for the adapter, with the hex bit for the quick release welded right on top of it. The quick release has got like zero play in it that I can find (we'll see how that works once the wheel's on it, but like this, so far no issues). It's a quality piece, it just needs those bolt holes between the steering column and hub adapters lined up properly. Hopefully it's a 1 off issue, but it's a data point.
 
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dija look into NRG? they have a slim hub and paired with their quick release it only moves the wheel .5-1" away from where the stock position was on the protege. I could still easily touch the control stalks.
 
I didn't really like the design of their quick release, and the quick release + slim hub would have been a lot more expensive than what I ended up with going with the ISC quick release + MiataCage adapter.
 
Well, now that I've got it assembled, I have to say I'm pretty damn happy with it. There's pretty much no play in it, and after playing with it, and the mechanism is really slick. I was able to find the right bolts @ TrueValue, however they were like 1/8" too long, and interfered with the quick release mechanism, so I just hit 'em with a dremel and it works like a charm.

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I'm just excited because a) I got to solve a problem (it's what I do for a living, I get a huge kick out of it), b) it looks cool as s***, and c) I got to MODIFY!!! (and throw some sparks in the garage :D)
 
So, on the other side of this build:

S2k sold and 03 Nissan Pathfinder bought with a class III hitch :D
Also on order:
Proportional Brake controller
7 blade truck-side trailer electrical connection
2" Ball mount & greaseless ball

Now to install all of that, and get the trailer on order :D
Progress, it's good
 
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Wow, haven't updated this in a while... ended up buying a trailer from a friend who was selling his. It's not the prettiest thing, but it's light, hauls great, and will get the job done. And was 1/3 the cost of the one I wanted to buy LOL

Also: 2 weekends ago Chris (Prodigy) and I (but mostly Chris...) installed the brake controller & wiring harness on the truck. Was a lot of work but we knocked it out :)

And today:

NOW we're getting somewhere (rockon)

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So they're old. And used. And a medium road race compound. But for a 1st set of slicks, having a tire that can take some abuse isn't a bad thing. After putting a torch and putty knife to a couple of them to get the OPR (Other People's Rubber) off, and some FormulaV tire treatment, they should be a lot more usable
 
I took a couple minutes and crunched some numbers:

Current wheels: 13.5 lbs (15x7 spec miata wheels)
Current tires: 24 lbs

13x7 wheel / tire combo: 23.5 lbs.

Total weight loss: 14 lbs per corner = 48 lbs of unsprung, rotating mass.

Think that'll make a difference? I think yes. Very yes.

Also: just throwing these on will drop the car below 2000 lbs :D
Yeah, I'm happy with that (rockon)
 
what are you shooting for whp wise again after all is said and done?

I'll be happy with anything over 155 whp. I'd like 160-170, but at that point you're getting into crazy custom parts (obviously) and lots, lots, LOTS more money. Seeing what Marco Horn (the Green EP civic that sometimes runs up in Atlanta) has done with his civic by just getting it as light as possible and adding a little power (like 125-130) is an inspiration lol
 
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Oh and what parts does it take to get 155ish?

Copied from my post here:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5107299&postcount=16

amaff said:
Essentially the recipe is going to be high compression, light-weight rods & crank, ported head + bigger valves & stiffer valve springs, bigger cams and adjustable cam gears, ITBs and a bigger exhaust manifold. Not sure if it'll have to be custom, but the Maxim Works header may work too.

But my goal starting off is to just get everything that moves as lightweight as possible (within reason, I'm not made of money...)
 
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