D Prepared Miata Build

I don't see a reason to go bigger than 2.5" with that small of a motor, N/A, whether you're high compression or not. I don't think the exhaust gas velocity would be there.
 
I think my biggest problem's going to be the header. I've read a lot that something like even the maxim works is not quite enough for the flow you get in the higher rev-range on DP miatae. The biggest issue on that one is the tubing after the collector being too small. That's not exactly a hard fix, but I really don't want to spend $1000 on a header that I'm going to have to modify down the road. I may have to go the route of having Kirk Racing or Maloof racing (a bit closer to home) fab something custom up for me.
 
You're a Prepared-class driver now. Open that wallet wide!

lol there's 2 paths: The DIY path, and the expensive path. For the time being I'm sticking with the DIY path. How much does a Motec, Link or Hydra ECU for the miata cost? And how much does a Megasquirt cost? For some of them, the savings are in the hundreds to thousands (last time I priced a Motec for gits 'n shiggles, it was over $3000.) You save a couple hundred here, a thousand there, those numbers that you're NOT spending start to REALLY add up. I could see, with the internet's proverbial unlimited budget, for a DP miata to EASILY clear $30k
 
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Ok, couple things. I'll go in reverse order of what I read.

Do you really think you can get it registered/street-legal with all the "weight savings" you are going to be doing? I'm all for the cat, just doubt it makes sense to waste the money on registration, insurance, etc.

Biggest thing that strikes me is this: Is the 75 pound penalty for wheel width worth having to run a cantilever slick? Get a 10" wide wheel and then slap a tire on there that doesn't deflect 2".

Or am I just too out there with my wacky "No-one-else-does-that-so-I-have-to-try-it" mentality.
 
Do you really think you can get it registered/street-legal with all the "weight savings" you are going to be doing? I'm all for the cat, just doubt it makes sense to waste the money on registration, insurance, etc.
Who knows, but it'd be fun to try :D. There's no safety inspection in GA. Honestly, I'd be out like $70 for a year, so I'm not really *that* worried about it

Biggest thing that strikes me is this: Is the 75 pound penalty for wheel width worth having to run a cantilever slick? Get a 10" wide wheel and then slap a tire on there that doesn't deflect 2".
I doubt that there'll be that much tire deflection out of it. And from my understanding the top guys who are running these have no lack of grip, so at this point (especially being underpowered like woah) I don't see a need to move away from something that's a more or less "known quantity" if that makes any sense. If it becomes an issue, it's not out of the question to try something new.

Or am I just too out there with my wacky "No-one-else-does-that-so-I-have-to-try-it" mentality.
Probably that ;)
 
i say going with whatever tire is easier to mount and balance would be your best bet

And i like the idea of going street legal that way if i ever need a car to borrow this would work out awesome lol
 
I know we've discussed this before, but I'm with Wayne.

IMHO, m0ar tire > 75 lbs.

Do it up right. Borrow Kevin's wheels and figure out a way to throw 75 lbs in the passenger side. TnT mofos.
 
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I'd need to go bigger than 13x8s IMO to make it worth the penalty. If I find I'm lacking for grip, then that's definitely an option.

Ordered parts to whip up my VAM-less intake for the MS install. 45* 5 ply silicone elbow w/ a K&N that's got a spot at the front to be bolted to a bracket, along with a spot to plug in an IAT sensor. Simple, effective, and not terribly expensive :)

i say going with whatever tire is easier to mount and balance would be your best bet
I figured you would ;)
 
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I doubt that there'll be that much tire deflection out of it.

Well, 2" total. 1" inboard and 1" outboard, roughly. This is info from the DP Spyder that runs slicks. He needed that clearance inboard (at least) to keep off the housings.
 
Oof. That's all Kevin's got? Ok, Hardy's Civic wheels then. You get the point.

Don't do it because it's what everyone else does. It wouldn't be that hard to test and find out what works.
 
So what you're saying is I shouldn't get to a known point then try to improve on it, but just take random shots in the dark spending a bunch of money on wheels and tires I may or may not ever need? Cookie-cutter builds are great to get you up to speed. We did the same thing with the STS build: built it to "spec" then tweaked it from there. And it worked great, and we did nothing but get faster. But trying to eye-ball a full on race-prep I'm wholly unfamiliar with just doesn't work for me.

Hey speaking of builds on unlimited budgets, how's your STS car coming? :p



(that may have been a bit low)
 
Cookie-cutter builds are great to get you up to speed. We did the same thing with the STS build: built it to "spec" then tweaked it from there. And it worked great, and we did nothing but get faster.

Truth. We use this in engineering too!
 
Oof. That's all Kevin's got? Ok, Hardy's Civic wheels then. You get the point.

Don't do it because it's what everyone else does. It wouldn't be that hard to test and find out what works.

Yeah, I definately need more wheel. One of these days, I'll reshell the Panasports.
 
Got the steering wheel and an adapter I need for the quick-release I'm getting in. The quick-release and hub have been ordered, so I should have complete pictures of that setup soon (probably by the end of the week)

Mmmm, Italian goodness.

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I finally found a style of 'hood pin' that I don't hate, and that doesn't cost a friggin fortune. I was planning on using the aerocatch hood latches, but they're like $120+ for a pair, so that wasn't ideal by any means, but it was better than most styles of hood pins. Don't ask why, I've just never liked the tethered or untethered kind, just seem too fiddley for whatever reason, too easy to lose parts or scratch paint with them.

Then I saw these on a Wayne's (apexlater) car this weekend:

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They're captive, which I really like, and I save about $100 / set over the aerocatches, so these are on the way. 1 more weight reduction upgrade set :D (hood latch + catch + cable = outta here). Except in red, because I'm a closet ricer.

For anyone remotely interested, search e-bay for Sparco Hood Pins and you'll find these
 
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