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Thread: D Prepared Miata Build

  1. #31
    High Speed Low Drag aMaff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow102 View Post
    ...unless they are going to force you to tear down the engine my guess is they verify it by the block. and per the earlier rule muff posted boring is legal
    They have tools to measure bore and stroke without taking the head off. They do occasionally spot check at the big events to keep folks honest in the P/M classes specifically

    Also, while boring (to an extent) is specifically allowed, I don't think "de-boring" (can you even do that?) is.

    EDIT: And tear downs for protests have happened. It's part of racing. At least it's not like club racing where if you podium there's a very high likely hood that a rebuild is in your future
    Last edited by aMaff; 02-25-2010 at 10:34 PM.
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  2. #32
    Now, with more Zoom Zoom! TinmanMS6's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by aMaff View Post
    Also, while boring (to an extent) is specifically allowed, I don't think "de-boring" (can you even do that?) is.
    If it's not, de-stroking definitely is.

    If you told me to pick one person who needs less stroke...Muff. Without even thinking about it.
    2009 Subaru Forester
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  3. #33
    High Speed Low Drag aMaff's Avatar
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    something something DP something
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  4. #34
    Now, with more Zoom Zoom! TinmanMS6's Avatar

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    Hmmm...maybe not?

    2. Cylinder sleeves may be fitted to the block for repair purposes
    if they serve no other prohibited function. Sleeving may
    not be used to create a new engine configuration (one which
    exhibits the same displacement as an allowed engine, but
    which has differing bore and stroke), unless authorized in
    Appendix A.
    Oil passages may be enlarged, restricted, or
    plugged.
    1. The crankshaft may be replaced with another of the same
    basic material, provided the angles of the crank throws remain
    the same. No change in stroke is permitted unless
    authorized in Appendix A.
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  5. #35
    High Speed Low Drag aMaff's Avatar
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    Yeah, I knew about the stroke rule but obviously glanced past the sleeving rule. On the upside: Knife-edged crank!

    Also, someone buy me this for christmas:

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  6. #36
    Now, with more Zoom Zoom! TinmanMS6's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by aMaff View Post
    Yeah, I knew about the stroke rule but obviously glanced past the sleeving rule. On the upside: Knife-edged crank!

    Also, someone buy me this for christmas:

    http://949racing.com/ProductImages/9...win_clutch.jpg
    Yeah, based on my skimming yesterday, I assumed you could do pretty much anything, but it sounds like you can do anything *but* change the displacement.
    Last edited by TinmanMS6; 02-25-2010 at 10:58 PM.
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  7. #37
    Now, with more Zoom Zoom! TinmanMS6's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by aMaff View Post
    Also, someone buy me this for christmas:

    I was going to say "Sure, how much?" then went and checked.

    Holy effing ess! That's an expensive clutch. Want to bring that up the next time somebody brings up how they think we should be able to change clutches and flywheels in ST*?
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  8. #38
    Slap and Pickle Shadow102's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by aMaff View Post
    They have tools to measure bore and stroke without taking the head off. They do occasionally spot check at the big events to keep folks honest in the P/M classes specifically

    Also, while boring (to an extent) is specifically allowed, I don't think "de-boring" (can you even do that?) is.

    EDIT: And tear downs for protests have happened. It's part of racing. At least it's not like club racing where if you podium there's a very high likely hood that a rebuild is in your future
    ok you have my interest...how do you measure the bore with the head still on the car?

    And i know tear down protests can happen but block identification could cut down hugely on having to.



  9. #39
    High Speed Low Drag aMaff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TinmanMS6 View Post
    I was going to say "Sure, how much?" then went and checked.

    Holy effing ess! That's an expensive clutch. Want to bring that up the next time somebody brings up how they think we should be able to change clutches and flywheels in ST*?
    Yeah... but it's also the lightest readily available clutch / flywheel I've been able to find. 14 lbs for the combo is IIRC just over half what the stock flywheel weighs by itself.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow102 View Post
    And i know tear down protests can happen but block identification could cut down hugely on having to.
    Stroke I imagine is pretty easy to check with the head on, but I don't know what the specifics of how they check the bore diameter. I do know the tools were broken out last year @ Solo Nats to verify compliance in at least 1 of the P/M classes. IIRC there was a piece that mentioned it in the SCCA's magazine. I believe that Solo borrowed them from the club-racing scruitineering folks and they were saying how happy they were to be able to have access to these as it made this check really easy, instead of having to have the heads off the cars.
    Last edited by aMaff; 02-26-2010 at 01:24 AM.
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  10. #40
    High Speed Low Drag aMaff's Avatar
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    Thoughts? Is there any reason even with a high comp engine & worked head and manifold I'd need to go bigger than 2.5"? I know there's a bunch of you that know your engine theory a lot better than I do so I'm open to suggestions. I was playing around on Summit's site last night and came up with this as what I think to be a workable, budget friendly solution that shouldn't hurt performance and still keep me within the Atlanta region's sounds limits. For the record, both mufflers are straight-through, perforated tube designs


    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSM-82-4216/

    to


    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-15038/?rtype=10

    to


    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-24215/?rtype=10

    to


    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-17230/?rtype=10

    to




    And you may ask "why run a cat?" and I'll pose this in response: Why not run a cat. Modern cats have been shown to have minimal, if any effect on performance, and also: how funny would it be to have a serious race car with a current registration on it? lol. And there's no reason we can't try to be a bit more environmentally friendly
    Last edited by aMaff; 02-27-2010 at 02:12 PM.
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  11. #41
    Phenda Bear THE Phen's Avatar

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    I don't see a reason to go bigger than 2.5" with that small of a motor, N/A, whether you're high compression or not. I don't think the exhaust gas velocity would be there.
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  12. #42
    High Speed Low Drag aMaff's Avatar
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    I think my biggest problem's going to be the header. I've read a lot that something like even the maxim works is not quite enough for the flow you get in the higher rev-range on DP miatae. The biggest issue on that one is the tubing after the collector being too small. That's not exactly a hard fix, but I really don't want to spend $1000 on a header that I'm going to have to modify down the road. I may have to go the route of having Kirk Racing or Maloof racing (a bit closer to home) fab something custom up for me.
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  13. #43
    Now, with more Zoom Zoom! TinmanMS6's Avatar

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    You're a Prepared-class driver now. Open that wallet wide!
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  14. #44
    High Speed Low Drag aMaff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TinmanMS6 View Post
    You're a Prepared-class driver now. Open that wallet wide!
    lol there's 2 paths: The DIY path, and the expensive path. For the time being I'm sticking with the DIY path. How much does a Motec, Link or Hydra ECU for the miata cost? And how much does a Megasquirt cost? For some of them, the savings are in the hundreds to thousands (last time I priced a Motec for gits 'n shiggles, it was over $3000.) You save a couple hundred here, a thousand there, those numbers that you're NOT spending start to REALLY add up. I could see, with the internet's proverbial unlimited budget, for a DP miata to EASILY clear $30k
    Last edited by aMaff; 02-28-2010 at 03:33 AM.
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  15. #45
    /\ My advice /\ apexlater's Avatar

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    Ok, couple things. I'll go in reverse order of what I read.

    Do you really think you can get it registered/street-legal with all the "weight savings" you are going to be doing? I'm all for the cat, just doubt it makes sense to waste the money on registration, insurance, etc.

    Biggest thing that strikes me is this: Is the 75 pound penalty for wheel width worth having to run a cantilever slick? Get a 10" wide wheel and then slap a tire on there that doesn't deflect 2".

    Or am I just too out there with my wacky "No-one-else-does-that-so-I-have-to-try-it" mentality.
    Godspeed.
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