VersaTuner - tuning software for Mazdas
VersaTuner - tuning software for Mazdas
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 30 of 30

Thread: How hard is it to chnage the front and rear rotors?

  1. #16
    Registered Member dfskinner's Avatar

    2006 Mazda 5

    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Virginia Beach, Va
    Posts
    115
    Did you guys check the Mazda 3 section? Brake job by a Volvo owner on something other than a Mazda 5? I can't believe we don't have a "DIY" for front and rear brakes....

    Only tool needed to change the front pads on a Mazda 5 is a T47 torx wrench. I searched the forum and couldn't find this info anywhere.

    Of course you'll need the standard stuff; Jack, stands, flat screw driver, large clamp, lug wrench....... and about 1 hour.

    I didn't document each step; but it was pretty easy and straight forward. Screws where you use the T47 are hidden behind two plastic plugs. Other than that everything else is right in front of you...... hope this helps..... I may do it again and take some pic's....
    Last edited by dfskinner; 04-08-2010 at 10:13 PM.
    dfskinner
    If you don't know where you want to go....
    "Then it doesn't much matter how you get there"
    (2006 Mazada 5)

  2. #17
    Registered Member

    Mazda 5

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Orlando, Fl
    Posts
    584
    The pads are needing to be replaced on our 5 and I wanted to do it this weekend. How do you know if the rotors need to be replaced as well? They aren't too bumpy (pretty smooth) and I read that rotors should last 2 sets of pads; this being the original set of pads.

    I'll try and remember to take some photos of my bumbling steps to replace pads for the first time in 15 years. What are the recommended pads and rotor brands? I want to buy from TireRack if possible, unless they are cheaper at the local car parts store.

  3. #18
    SuperMini AIMWO4's Avatar

    Mazda5 Sport 5-Speed

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Highlands Ranch, CO
    Posts
    629
    If you don't have a big lip on the outside edge of the rotors or a pulsing brake pedal, you should be safe with the old rotors. There is a link to the Mazda5 Maint Manul on here if you are looking for specs and have a tool to measure it. The job is pretty easy if you have done it before. Open the bleeder before resetting the caliper pistons. ABS systems don't like back pressure. Make sure you have brake fluid around, and a way to bleed the system after install. Just poke around the 3 forum and sponsors to decide on what pads you think are best for you. Everyone has an opinion.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kid Red View Post
    The pads are needing to be replaced on our 5 and I wanted to do it this weekend. How do you know if the rotors need to be replaced as well? They aren't too bumpy (pretty smooth) and I read that rotors should last 2 sets of pads; this being the original set of pads.

    I'll try and remember to take some photos of my bumbling steps to replace pads for the first time in 15 years. What are the recommended pads and rotor brands? I want to buy from TireRack if possible, unless they are cheaper at the local car parts store.
    AIM WO4
    2007 Stellar Greensilver Sport, 5-Speed, K&N CAI, 18% tint, MS3 18X7 Gunmetal Wheels with 225/40-18 Fuzion ZRi



    ---------------------------------------------------------------------
    1968 Green/Gray Chevrolet Impala Coupe (SOLD)
    1974 Chocolate Brown Toyota Celica GT (Given to Brother)
    1979 Ford F-150 Daytona Ed Pick-up w/ 460 (SOLD)
    1972 Ford Courier P/U (Given to Dad)
    1978 Red BMW 528i (SOLD)
    1976 Orange Ford Taunus (Wrecked by Roommate)
    1988 Red Ford Mustang 5.0 GT (SOLD)
    1967 Black Mercury Cougar w/390 (375HP) (SOLD)
    1974 Gold Jeep Wagoneer (SOLD)
    1991 Gray Toyota 4Runner (SOLD)
    1987 Black Ford Capri 280 (UK) (SOLD)
    1997 Green Saab 900 SE Turbo Coupe (SOLD) 1996 Green Toyota 4Runner (Spouse)
    2001 Blue Saab 9-5 Turbo Sedan (SOLD)
    2000 Silver Saab 9-5 G.F. Ed. Wagon (SOLD)
    2007 Stellar GreenSilver Mazda5

  4. #19
    Registered Member

    Mazda 5

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Orlando, Fl
    Posts
    584
    Quote Originally Posted by AIMWO4 View Post
    If you don't have a big lip on the outside edge of the rotors or a pulsing brake pedal, you should be safe with the old rotors. There is a link to the Mazda5 Maint Manul on here if you are looking for specs and have a tool to measure it. The job is pretty easy if you have done it before. Open the bleeder before resetting the caliper pistons. ABS systems don't like back pressure. Make sure you have brake fluid around, and a way to bleed the system after install. Just poke around the 3 forum and sponsors to decide on what pads you think are best for you. Everyone has an opinion.
    Ah, so I do have to bleed the brakes, it's been so long since I've done it myself, I wasn't sure. The steering wheel pulsates at high speeds when applying the brakes but I don't recall any associated pedal movement. Also, I didn't notice any lip on the rotor's edge. Do the rotors need to be replaced?

  5. #20
    Registered Member mars1100's Avatar

    2009 Mazda 5

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    94
    sounds to me like you might need the rotors cut, when was the last time you had them done?
    2009 Mazda 5 Touring
    2006 Mazda 6s wagon
    2003 Saturn Ion

  6. #21
    Registered Member

    Mazda 5

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Orlando, Fl
    Posts
    584
    Quote Originally Posted by mars1100 View Post
    sounds to me like you might need the rotors cut, when was the last time you had them done?
    Never. Everything is still original except for the tires and bushings. So new pads for the front (have to check the rears) and rotors turned. Is turning much cheaper than new ones?

  7. #22
    SuperMini AIMWO4's Avatar

    Mazda5 Sport 5-Speed

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Highlands Ranch, CO
    Posts
    629
    I'd replace the front rotors if they vibrate at high speed brake application. Usually means you have a "hot spot" which can sometimes be seen by ispecting the rotors for a blueish reflection.

    Make sure you seat the pads after you replace it all as well. They usually throw instructions on that process into the pad box, so I won't repeat that here.



    Quote Originally Posted by Kid Red View Post
    Ah, so I do have to bleed the brakes, it's been so long since I've done it myself, I wasn't sure. The steering wheel pulsates at high speeds when applying the brakes but I don't recall any associated pedal movement. Also, I didn't notice any lip on the rotor's edge. Do the rotors need to be replaced?
    Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

  8. #23
    Registered Member

    Mazda 5

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Orlando, Fl
    Posts
    584
    Cool, thanks for the info guys.

  9. #24
    Registered Member dfskinner's Avatar

    2006 Mazda 5

    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Virginia Beach, Va
    Posts
    115
    Be sure to use the "Brake Quiet" on the back of each pad........ I purchased the Wearever Silver Brake Pads from Advanced Auto; Part No. MKD 1044, Pads; Semi-Metallic; Orig Equipment Replacements for $21.99. The last pair went for about 45,000 miles which is what I got out of original brakes. For me the only reason to turn the rotors would be if they are not smooth (worn brake pads down into the rotor). Rotor's are not that hard to replace, but in all the vehicles I've owned I've only replaced one (1) pair and that's because they failed the inspection (too thin) and that was at 247,000 miles, so needless to say and this is just my personal opinion, don't replace them unless they need to be replaced and again that's my personal opinion. Nice thing about Virginia is the annual vehicle inspection.
    Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

  10. #25
    Registered Member

    Mazda 5

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Orlando, Fl
    Posts
    584
    Thanks. So you paid $50 for the front pair? Wow. If I took the rotors off, would a shop turn them for me, and if so, what is the general cost? The reason I need them turned or replaced is the vibration I have when braking. As I understand it, that's related to the rotors.

  11. #26
    Registered Member mars1100's Avatar

    2009 Mazda 5

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    94
    I am not a professional but from what I understand rotors are not smooth to begin with, they are... can we say wavy?
    when you have the rotors turned it puts the waves(not visible to the eye) back in the rotors after the pads have smoothed all the waves out. The waves are put into the rotors as a way to aid in the opening of the calipers when you stop pressing on the brakes and are just coasting or accelerating.
    Rotors should be turned everytime pads are replaced.

    At least this is the way it was put to me many years ago, If we have an ASE certified mechanic on here please set me straight if I am wrong as I would not like to share inaccurate information.
    Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

  12. #27
    SuperMini AIMWO4's Avatar

    Mazda5 Sport 5-Speed

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Highlands Ranch, CO
    Posts
    629
    It ain't like the old days when we could just resurface each time we did a brake job (Used to be a certified mechanic... 25 years ago). Now the rotors are made to a certain spec. They need to be measured to ensure there is enough left to turn. Most people refer to those waves as grooves. Most people refer to waves as the inconsistancies that make a rotor imperceptively wobble... causing a pulsing action in the brake pedal or a wobble in the steering.

    I've done a lot of non-certified work on cars since leaving the auto industry. Most rotors are designed to be replaced with the pads these days.

    Quote Originally Posted by mars1100 View Post
    I am not a professional but from what I understand rotors are not smooth to begin with, they are... can we say wavy?
    when you have the rotors turned it puts the waves(not visible to the eye) back in the rotors after the pads have smoothed all the waves out. The waves are put into the rotors as a way to aid in the opening of the calipers when you stop pressing on the brakes and are just coasting or accelerating.
    Rotors should be turned everytime pads are replaced.

    At least this is the way it was put to me many years ago, If we have an ASE certified mechanic on here please set me straight if I am wrong as I would not like to share inaccurate information.
    Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

  13. #28
    Registered Member


    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    342
    Replaced the original rear pads today, 104,000 miles. Not bad

  14. #29
    Registered Member

    06 Carbon Gray Touring 5

    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    DFW, TX
    Posts
    344
    Quote Originally Posted by SonicBoy View Post
    Those are sharp wheels with really low profile tires.
    Those huge wheels make the brakes look tiny.

  15. #30
    Registered Member 1WICKED6's Avatar

    2006 Mazdaspeed 6 Sport

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Reading,Pa
    Posts
    1,195
    Quote Originally Posted by MD5 View Post
    Those huge wheels make the brakes look tiny.
    Honestly you have to see my brothers Mirage with 19's...those rotors look tiny...Honestly the 5 has some of the bigger breaks I've seen on a compact anything...They are bigger than the brakes i had on my 96 Dodge Caravan
    ( Dont know if you can tell but I love these wheels...lol )
    19" Mille Miglia EVO5 on 225/40 tires

    19" Sport Edition KV5 on 215/35 tires

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. How hard to replace front brake rotors?
    By cs1992 in forum Mazda Protege
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 11-29-2009, 10:34 PM
  2. Seized rear brakes/Cross drilled front rotors
    By Red Baron in forum Global
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 05-29-2005, 03:47 PM
  3. WTB: Front and rear rotors
    By Nutari in forum Completed Transactions
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-20-2005, 05:32 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •