Ricktalife's EPIC fails and maybe a build thread too
- Thread starter Ricktalife
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Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Yes the BOV is recirculated. I did not weld the flange on myself. I bought the setup as is. You can T off a vac line if you like, or if the BOV is your only accessory that requires a vac source you could use the port on top of the intake manifold like I did initally. I bought a block since I have several components now that need a vac source and the block gives a better source than a T. Also, it looks much cleaner than having T's everywhere.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
yeah,well i jost dont really know what bov to get. im a cheap ass and would most likely go iwth a ebay bov... and i hear they suck. ill stick with my turkey.. even though its slowly killing my turbo
LOL trust me it's completely pointless to cheap out on anything for your car. You don't always have to get the top of the line, but buying a product that you know will likely fail is a waste of time and will eventually cost you more money. My MSP has its fair share of ghetto, but I am working to eliminate that.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Well hopefully by Spring time I will be installing my FMIC and selling the setup I have now. Whatever you decide to do, make sure you do the research and keep your eyes peeled on the For Sale section. You're bound to find some good deals.
Usually I buy the OEM parts for oil filters and such just so I can blame them if it fails, but if you think the Purolater works well then I'll take your word for it. Suggestions where to buy?
I'm thinking about replacing any mounts with OEM replacements (hear me out) and meanwhile I am considering some inserts to keep the vibrations minimal but still be safe. That would also put me in the market for a new s-pipe
The suspension is scaring me since I can hear the clunk, as well as major squeaking from both the front and rear when I go over a large bump (they are a plenty in PA). The front also seems to be significantly louder than the rear.
I've been shopping around for plugs (silly I know) because I can't decide if I really need platinums or not. Really doesn't matter to me, I just want to make sure they work well. I will be keeping the boost below 10psi, hopefully around 7-8.
Upgraded brakes have come to mind, but I know I don't need a serious $900 for my basic bolt ons. Though I'm told if I just go with stronger pads they will wear the rotors quicker. I want to have the rotors inspected to see how they are doing.
Seafoam is a good idea, and I will talk to my dad to hear his thoughts before my next oil change (royal purple (thumb))
Any local PA parts store like Old Manny Moe & Jack should have the Purolator pcv as its a common part. I used to have traces of oil around the pcv and feeder hoses before I switched to the Purolator, no more issues.
I don't think your crazy for wanting OEM mounts. Not everyone wants the vibration increase at idle and with the a/c on. I'm still using my stock rear and trans mount. My passenger mount died a few years ago and I replaced it and the front with SLS mounts. No problems or complaints.
Platinum plugs will last longer but the coppers give a better spark. I've been using the NGK V power (stock no 4291) plugs since my second plug change around 60K. I'd go with coppers for the spark and lower cost factor. There so easy to swap out, it doesn't matter to me if they only last about a 1/3rd as long as the platinums.
When it was time for me to get new pads, I opted to not machine the rotors and just replaced them with Centric rotors and those Satisfied pads. My stopping is great. But I didn't really have an issue with the stock setup either.
I don't doubt that your front bushings are dry or shot like the rears. The fronts just look like a b**** to get at. I always just sprayed lubed those but took of the rears and greased them.
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
I actually went to Pep Boys earlier just to browse some random parts and found the Purolator PCV's. But I forgot the part number lol. I didn't feel like wasting my time asking them because if the dealer can't figure that s*** out then God help those guys.
So copper is better performance. That's what I want. I agree if they don't last as long but are a fraction of the price, then who cares?
My brakes stop just fine for now. I'm just thinking ahead.
I have no idea what is going on with the suspension, so I'm planning for the worst.
*I really appreciate everybody's suggestions. I would be lost without all the info I find from this forum.
Mb weapons. nooo. j/k. Cant wait to see them on ur car.
As for MM. I agree inserts are pretty good. I got inserts all around. Im thinking about getting a awr rear mount tho. The other three mounts are fine. Vibration is to a minimum for me. I can barely tell. I gotta turn the music off and try to listen for vibration. haha.
As for MM. I agree inserts are pretty good. I got inserts all around. Im thinking about getting a awr rear mount tho. The other three mounts are fine. Vibration is to a minimum for me. I can barely tell. I gotta turn the music off and try to listen for vibration. haha.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Dude I'm researching the official Indian Spring dance as we speak. I can't wait to get these bitches on.
That's exactly what I wanted to hear about the inserts. I'm keeping my wallet shut on most of these planned purchases until the car is looked over, but they would definitely be a great purchase if the mounts are screwed. Even if they aren't I might get them anyway to have my turbo back exhaust. Ah who am I kidding, it's only a matter of time.
there seems to be a lot of confusion here.
from the pics youre running the dual valve setup. the HKS is venting, the stock BPV is recirculating. rick: recirculating is when the valve dumps the pressurized air back into the unpressurized intake and behaves like a BPV.
the benefit to the dual setup is you dont have to relocate your MAF to the cold pipe (near the throttle body) but can still VTA without stalling. if you just VTA, you will stall. the MAF has metered the intake air and the ECU metered the fuel to be injected, so when you blow boost off the coldpipe, it starves the combustion cycle. but if you run the BPV at the same time, it recirculates just enough air back to the MAF so you dont stall.
ideally, you relocate your MAF so you dont have to run goofy ass-backwards setups, but its extremely common in these cars.
from the pics youre running the dual valve setup. the HKS is venting, the stock BPV is recirculating. rick: recirculating is when the valve dumps the pressurized air back into the unpressurized intake and behaves like a BPV.
the benefit to the dual setup is you dont have to relocate your MAF to the cold pipe (near the throttle body) but can still VTA without stalling. if you just VTA, you will stall. the MAF has metered the intake air and the ECU metered the fuel to be injected, so when you blow boost off the coldpipe, it starves the combustion cycle. but if you run the BPV at the same time, it recirculates just enough air back to the MAF so you dont stall.
ideally, you relocate your MAF so you dont have to run goofy ass-backwards setups, but its extremely common in these cars.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Oh okay, so I guess that is why I've always heard people talking about 50/50 or something like that? Like half venting and half recirc? Or am I just talking out my ass? Regardless, thanks for clearing that up.
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
Went to Pep Boys and bought a Purolater PCV and the NGK V-power plugs. Probably could have got the stuff cheaper, but I want to get the ball rolling on this s*** since everyone that helps me always drags their feet (not referring to you guys).
Also reloaded the stock super map to the AFC just to see if it would go back to normal even for a couple minutes, but still running bad. I'm pretty sure I have all the correct settings, but still convinced I am making a stupid mistake.
edit: I also noticed a file in the map folder titled "z3053100". Would this be the stock ECU map? I don't remember saving it but that would be sweet cause I want to have that available.
Also reloaded the stock super map to the AFC just to see if it would go back to normal even for a couple minutes, but still running bad. I'm pretty sure I have all the correct settings, but still convinced I am making a stupid mistake.
edit: I also noticed a file in the map folder titled "z3053100". Would this be the stock ECU map? I don't remember saving it but that would be sweet cause I want to have that available.
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nope, you got it right.
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
So my headlights are really getting to me. They are just waaaaaaay too flashy for my tastes. I would like to get some new OEM MSP headlights, but I doubt anybody would want to buy mine anyway. Any suggestions on some good tint? I don't want them really dark so I get pulled over or can't see lol but I love the look of the OEM headlights, and want to get them close to or exactly like that.
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
sending PM.
