krimsonviper
Member
- :
- 2010 Mazda3 i-Touring
Looking for a guide and tips on how to change it on the 2.0 manual.
Has anyone changed their trans fluid and/or clutch fluid?
- Thread starter krimsonviper
- Start date
Is there a recommended interval? I assume you are never supposed to change it if the 3 is like most other modern cars.
krimsonviper
Member
- :
- 2010 Mazda3 i-Touring
That's a myth. You're still suppose to change it every 30-50K miles.
^ This.
The transmission feels a little notchy, and I haven't driven a FWD manual before, so I'm thinking that it might be because of that. Maybe a synthetic will help with it's notchyness, but a synthetic fluid is always better than stock in a new vehicle anyway.
I call your remark the myth, or just outdated info by a decade or two.
krimsonviper
Member
- :
- 2010 Mazda3 i-Touring
Eh, not my car.
I figured as much. I'm still gonna love the new synthetic when I toss it in!
krimsonviper
Member
- :
- 2010 Mazda3 i-Touring
Fluid is fluid, and it breaks down with heat, thus you still have to change the fluid. With a synthetic oil, it's manufactured to resist heat, possibly giving it a longer life, but definitely giving it a better performance. Even the previous model 3 had trouble with heat issues in it's transmission and people opted to lowering the problem with a transmission oil cooler on their ATs(I don't know if one is available on the MT, I had AT on my first gen. 3).
What you're NOT suppose to do in the new age transmissions is a transmission FLUSH. Reason being is that the new transmissions have alot of sensitive equipment and the flushes can put metal shavings or just plain old grime in them and then you end up with a blown transmission. The AT, has an internal filter, and it's not easy to replace, and most shops don't even know its there and don't clean that after the flush causing clogs. Some people have reported no problems after a flush, some have and it's a gamble most people don't want to deal with.
What you're NOT suppose to do in the new age transmissions is a transmission FLUSH. Reason being is that the new transmissions have alot of sensitive equipment and the flushes can put metal shavings or just plain old grime in them and then you end up with a blown transmission. The AT, has an internal filter, and it's not easy to replace, and most shops don't even know its there and don't clean that after the flush causing clogs. Some people have reported no problems after a flush, some have and it's a gamble most people don't want to deal with.
Eh, not my car.
I figured as much. I'm still gonna love the new synthetic when I toss it in!
May cause as much damage as the other outdated conventional wisdom of warming your car up before driving it.
krimsonviper
Member
- :
- 2010 Mazda3 i-Touring
I agree with you to a point
It's a good thing to give your car needed time to move the oil from the pan to the valves, piston and other vital parts. Oil isn't "magically" in these parts in sufficient levels because most of it drains to the pan. I don't believe you need to sit there for anymore than 2-3 minutes, especially at freezing point and below, but I definitely don't think you should start and go on the pedal as soon as you have your seat belt on. Let the car relax as close to idle, which for me is 1,100RPMs, upon start up. Just don't mash on the pedal until appropriate op temp is acquired. Unfortunately, in these cars, we don't have a temp gauge.
Better fluid from stock. I changed my transmission oil, finally, yesterday and the notchiness is still there as advised by Wingzero, but it's not as bad as before and reverse engagement is way better than before as well.
Is the switch worth it? Eh, not as much as I hoped. I could have waited to get closer to 30,000 miles to change the oil if I knew the results were going to be like this. Live and learn.
Latest posts
-
2016~2023 CX-9 DIY Cylinder head replacement (workshop/service manual)
- Latest: Silly Wabbit
-
