How To: Quiet down cabin noise and improve sound for cheap

Matt V

Member
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2002 Mazda Protege5
I dunno about you guys but I have found the P5's interior to be quite loud, especially when you have low profile tires. I searched around, and wanted a solution that would quiet down the interior without breaking the bank. Coming from the car audio world, I immediately thought of Dynamat, however it is expensive and costs a lot to ship if you don't have a local hookup (which I didn't). Midway through my search I came across this link:

http://mikemercury.home.att.net/sound.htm

This Corvette owner was on the same quest. He used some material called duct insulation from Frost King, made of similar materials that Dynamat uses, and not to mention it is about 1/4 the price of Dynamat. I searched and found that Home Depot sells it the cheapest at $15/roll which measures 15 feet by 12 inches (which is ALOT). I went to Home Depot and bought a roll:

photo-1.jpg

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...og.beans.EndecaDataBean@518d91ea&ddkey=Search

This stuff is approved by the FAA to line the interior metal casing of private sized airplanes, so it must be good enough for Mazdas! (hump)

From there I removed the rear door panels and lined the inside of the door shell with the material (make sure to roll your windows up so you have access to everything) and rolled it down with a screwdriver end (you can use a wooden roller too). Here is how it turned out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwwAd8pvTCU

I didn't get any pictures during the process but here is another video showing how I installed everything:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODGT6jmRuK0

Since I removed my side moldings, the doors with dinky and hollow sounding. After installing the duct insulation into the door shell, the doors sound solid. Sound quality of my speakers were also improved and bass hit slightly lower. I plan on doing my whole interior with it soon but for now I notice a big difference with just the doors alone. The one roll I got was enough to cover the inside shell of all 4 doors with 4-5 feet left to spare. I imagine you would need 2-3 rolls total if you wanna do your doors, and floor (I plan on doing that soon as well).

I also installed some on the back side of the door panels, this made a very big difference in vibration related to hard hitting bass:

photo1.jpg


So for around $50 (if you buy three rolls, they are $15/each) you can make a huge difference in reducing road noise, and for those who are weight conscience each roll only weighs around 4lbs, which is quite lighter than Dynamat also. I hope this helps and if this helped please share your experiences with everyone on here.

-Matt
 
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great stuff... not that i used it... but great cuz you took the initiative to try it out for the rest of us here :)
 
nice! looks like a definite improvement. i have some door rattles and was thinking of doing something similar. but i was actually thinking of lining the plastic half of the door with insulation. maybe best to do both plastic side and metal side? thoughts?
 
pics?

Also, the package said it's made of foam...dynamat is basically asphalt.
 
While it's not quite the same as Dynamat, you can't deny what it can do for the money.

its yellow - I plan on laying some more on my actual door panel plastic because it still rattles a little bit from low bass notes. You could do any other panel in the same fashion also to help eliminate rattling.
 
See the stuff I have at work look's the same but has asphalt or tar on the other side it's used on roof's.Gotta get a pic of it.

I'm pretty sure that would work too, sounds like Dynamat. The only bad thing about that stuff is that it might be permanent, and if it didn't work like this stuff that could be bad news.

Also, I just took the time to apply the foam to the back side of the drivers side door panel plastic, and it makes a huge difference. The plastic no longer rattles when hard bass hits, I'm gonna have to get one more roll to do the rest of my doors and rear wheel wells.

photo1.jpg


I was going to put some on the brown areas but it wasn't sticking to it at all, however it stuck surprisingly well to the plastic areas.
 
looking good. i'm curious to hear more about the results you get noise/vibration/rattle wise.

also... any tips on removing the door panels?
 
I'm going to post more results once I actually drive more than 1 mile.

its yellow - Pry the bottoms out (there are clips holding them in) then remove the cup with the handle, then there are screws near the handle you pull to close the door. Then remove the window switch and you've pretty much got it from there. Once you do it once you can do it all day.
 
Not to be a downer...this will definitely help a little but nothin' to write home about. The good thing is you found a inexpensive way to get the same results as other expensive products.

My goal was to reduce road noise and exhaust drone. I covered every inch of the floor and trunk with B-quiet, I also added a layer of this special B-quiet foam "carpet" about 5mm thick over it. After sweating 13 hours I finished buttoning everything back up...took it for a spin and NO IMPROVEMENT!!!

To reduce tire/road noise...get better tires. To reduce exhaust drone..dont use polyurethane exhaust hangers...and especially don't go 3" Turboback if your sensitve to exhaust drone.
 
Not to be a downer...this will definitely help a little but nothin' to write home about. The good thing is you found a inexpensive way to get the same results as other expensive products.

My goal was to reduce road noise and exhaust drone. I covered every inch of the floor and trunk with B-quiet, I also added a layer of this special B-quiet foam "carpet" about 5mm thick over it. After sweating 13 hours I finished buttoning everything back up...took it for a spin and NO IMPROVEMENT!!!

Wow, that sucks.

To reduce tire/road noise...get better tires. To reduce exhaust drone..dont use polyurethane exhaust hangers...and especially don't go 3" Turboback if your sensitve to exhaust drone.

Wouldn't the poly hangers have less give and ultimately transfer rattles and vibrations more, resulting in more noise?
 
He means the outer door moldings. Nice write-up Matt, I want to try this out some time, my speakers make my door panels rattle like crazy.
 
He means the outer door moldings. Nice write-up Matt, I want to try this out some time, my speakers make my door panels rattle like crazy.

You're exactly right, I meant the exterior door moldings.

So now for an update. I took the car on the noisiest highway today, and I have to say that I don't have to turn up the radio volume as high to hear. There is also no road noise what-so-ever coming from the doors (that I can hear anyway). It sounds like most of the noise is coming from the wheel wells in the back, I plan on covering that area as well as the trunk floor soon.
 

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