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Thread: Sliding Door Lock Actuator Replacement

  1. #31
    Registered Member

    2008 Mazda5 Touring

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    Factory alarm is only for the GT folk. All others are just keyless entry.
    Aaron

  2. #32
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    "Each actuator retails for about $56, but you can find it online for $40 or less."

    Any suggestions as to where to find them on line for $40 or less?

  3. #33
    Registered Member

    Mazda5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fly on the Wall View Post
    "Each actuator retails for about $56, but you can find it online for $40 or less."

    Any suggestions as to where to find them on line for $40 or less?
    I got mine from parts.com ($39.72).

  4. #34
    2 Mazdas and a SVX

    2006 Mazda 5 Sport, 2005 Mazda 6 iSport, 92 Subaru SVX

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    Central Pennsylvania
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    Thank you so much for posting this information. I just fixed my drivers side and will be doing the passenger side soon. We have been living with 2 broken actuators for about 3 years now. Will be so nice to have both sides working again. FYI, mine cost $45.36 + $9 for shipping.

  5. #35
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    Thanks A10Thunder. Did mine today.

  6. #36
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    2006 Mazda5 Sport

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    Carlsbad, CA
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    Thanks for this excellent how-to! I just replaced both sides over the weekend.

    Not hard at all but next time I think I will get some of those plastic clips that hold the panels. I managed to salvage all of mine but most did break to some degree. Don't think they are meant to last.

    I paid $41.44 per actuator. Also bought a new ignition switch and combined shipping cam to $16.99.

    Now all the locks work and we can use the remote again. Yay!

  7. #37
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    2006 Mazda 6 - auto

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    Really nice write-up - thanks, just replaced left actuator

  8. #38
    Registered Member Davebert's Avatar


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    It looks like this repairs is going to affect many on us who have the 1st gen of the Mazda 5. Both sides of my car only works 1/2 the time. Kw_da was kind enough to sent me his broken one and I took it apart to have it look to see if this can be repair. I know they can be bought in the US for about $45 and in Canada they cost around $65. But this looks to be a very common problem and I think after my initial inspection, the cause was a burned motor, so either the motor was under spec, the gear ratio is wrong or the spring used on the gear wheel is too strong for the motor.


    Once I had it apart I took measurements of the motor and did some searches to find an replacement. I was able to find what looks to be an exact replacement on Ebay for $6.65.



    http://www.ebay.ca/itm/FC-280-w-Long...3D281332004208

    During my search I came upon a Honda actuator that looks exactly the same as the Mazda one. The only difference is both of the connectors are being used where the Mazda one only uses one of the 2 connectors and the portion that connects to the push rob is different. Here is the link to Banggood that has them on sale for under $10 with free shipping.

    http://www.banggood.com/Power-Door-L...d-p-81644.html

    I have placed an order for one of these Honda actuators through Banggood but most likely will receive it 3 weeks from now. Hope this is of some help to anyone interested in repairing their actuator. I will following up with an update once I receive the Honda actuator.

  9. #39
    Registered Member Davebert's Avatar


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    Spend some time today trying to figure out how the mechanism works with the spring. The the motor was in such poor state it cannot turn the gear wheel at all. So, I disassembled the rest of the actuator. The lever that connects to the lock push rod was the hardest to remove because it looks to be heat welded to the lever.



    The spring underneath the gear wheel was exerting a lot of tension making it very hard for the motor to turn it. I decided to shorten the spring and unwind it a bit so it will take less torque to turn the gear wheel.





    With the mod, the motor was finally able to turn the mechanism but only in one direction. Here is an video of it in action, don't mine my voice, should have spoken more clearly.

    http://tinypic.com/r/14oc9oh/8

    After seeing it in action I think I see a problem with the design, it is not mechanical but rather an electrical fault. When you press the lock or unlock button the car sends a pulse to the actuator. I think the duration of that pulse is too long, so every time the actuator is used the motor will experience stalled condition where it will receive the maximum or stall current.

    It probably does not stay in the stall state very long but that damages the windings and over time this accumulates resulting in a defective actuator. Anyways that my theory.

  10. #40
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    2006 Mazda 6 - auto

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    There is no limit switch? So if the door is already locked and I lock it again, then it's turning the motor against the stop the whole time? This probably why the motor burned out if true.

  11. #41
    Registered Member Davebert's Avatar


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    The spring is there to prevent that. It returns the gear wheel back to its middle/neutral position so even if you keep on pressing the same button the motor will always start from the neutral position. You are right about being no limit switch. Maybe that is what that extra connector that is empty for. I can see from the DIY picture that there is a wired connector that mates with it.

  12. #42
    Registered Member Davebert's Avatar


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    Received the $10 Honda actuator and it looks like is the same part accept for the extra limit switch which Mazda does not use. Here are some pictures of the Honda and Mazda actuator. Looks like Mazda has the wiring for the limit switch but don't know why they don't use it. Have to check the wiring diagram to see what that limit switch is wire to.






  13. #43
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    2006 Mazda 6 - auto

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    It looks like the only difference is the arm on the outside. You could just switch all the insides and you'd have a new actuator. Nice to know that a $10 actuator can replace the ~$45 Mazda one. Nice work.

  14. #44
    Registered Member vesko_m's Avatar

    Mazda 5 Imported from Edmonton,Canada

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    I fixed my door lock actuator a month ago.
    Took pictures and wanted to do a how-to but Davebert got ahead of me
    At least I will post some of my pics and my experience.

    First I found this thread http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...ator-Motor-Fix
    Which proved that it the actuator can be fixed by simply replacing the motor.
    It is worth doing it for the front doors since the price of the actuator is more than 160$

    Then I found the current thread started by a10thunder which gave me idea how to open the door.
    I read that the actuator itself is 40-60$, but hey if it can be fixed for less, why not
    I ordered from ebay.com "20mm Long Shaft Car Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair For Lexus Toyota Mabuchi" from seller "mhestore2009" for 5$
    Here's the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/281171934864...B:3160&vxp=mtr
    I ordered the motor with the longer shaft, just to be safe - it is easier to cut the shaft if I needed 10mm, than making it longer if I needed 20mm

    3 weeks later I had the motor.

    Removed the actuator from the door.
    I don't know how Davebert did cut the actuator that nice, clean and straight my praise to you.
    Here's how I did it:

    Hacking it hard with the Dremel
    Here it is opened:


    Here it can be seen that the upper connector is a microswitch - it is used in my Mazda 5, because it is equipped with the factory OEM Alarm System. So this connector and the switch, tells the ECU that the door is being opened and the horn starts beeping.

    Here's the original motor in place


    And here's the shaft of the original motor:

    It is not round like the new motor that I purchased.

    The two motors together - upper one is the burnt out original, and the lower is the new one


    Again I used the Dremel to make the shaft the same - with the slot.
    Replaced the motor.
    Since reading a lot of threads of repairing these actuators(from Lexus forums), it turned out that closing the actuator is the tricky part. I read a person that glued the two halves a little loose and the plastic worm part got stuck with the big white wheel (I am sorry if I don't use the right words, I am not a native english speaker ) and he had really hard time unlocking the door.
    So I decided to close the actuator mechanically with two screws without any glue. This leaves future opening quite easy and the closing to be monitored (so the halves don't get too tight to each other, since my diamond cut wheel on the dremel is really thick)

    These two screws prove to be sufficient:

    One is a bolt with a nut, and the other one is self tapper screw.

    Here they are on the other side:


    I have been using it on a daily basis for the last month and it works like new
    I plan on ordering one more motor for the other sliding door, since now I hear it unlocks the door a few milliseconds later than the new one and perhaps it will give way in the next months.

    Cheers,
    sorry if it is too long, but wanted to share what I initially planned to do as a how-to

  15. #45
    Registered Member Davebert's Avatar


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    Quote Originally Posted by vesko_m View Post
    I fixed my door lock actuator a month ago.
    I don't know how Davebert did cut the actuator that nice, clean and straight my praise to you.
    Here are the tools I used to crack the case open, a old broken mallet, and 2 flat blade screwdrivers for prying.



    I start by using the mallet and one flat blade screwdriver to crack the case, and then I just use the other screwdriver as a wedge and worked my way around the case. The original OEM one was a little more difficult to pry apart, but the Honda one came apart easier. Here is a recreation on how I did it and the starting point that I choose.




    I almost bought 2 new actuators from the dealer last year when I was there to get the car serviced. But the parts guy was given me lots of attitude when I was asking him if they have the parts in stock and the price. So I decided not to purchase the actuator part from there.

    vesko_m I see from your pictures that the OEM actuator has the limit switch, so all one has to do is to replace the lever and no need to crack the case open. Now that I have handled the two actuators some more I can say that the OEM one is a little heavier, looks like the case for the OEM one is a little thicker than the $10 HONDA jobber one. I have played with them some more and all the parts (motor, gears, levers and even the case) between the 2 actuator are interchangeable.

    Hope other members will find the useful and thanks to the OP for starting this thread.

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