MP3Night Turbo Build

New to the build list:
25. MSP ECU + SSAFC
26. Vacuum Block
27. Boost/Vacuum gauge
28. A/F Pro-comp gauge (bought from BlkonBlkMSP)
29. Fuel Pressure gauge
30. Oil Pressure gauge
 
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New to the build list:
25. BEGI FMU + Flyin' Miata with stock N/A ECU
26. Vacuum Block
27. Boost/Vacuum gauge
28. A/F Pro-comp gauge (bought from BlkonBlkMSP)
29. Fuel Pressure gauge
30. Oil Pressure gauge


Trying to save you some headaches in the future, I would ditch number 25. It is dead technology and it really only should be used for basic set ups when you want to generally add a decent amount of fuel to a car under boost, however, you will not be able to find tune and fix specific lean spots or achieve maximum horsepower.

You do not want to install a cassette player when we use cd's right? lol

Try to pick up a MSP ecu and ss afc. Most effective and efficient combo for the price.
 
Trying to save you some headaches in the future, I would ditch number 25. It is dead technology and it really only should be used for basic set ups when you want to generally add a decent amount of fuel to a car under boost, however, you will not be able to find tune and fix specific lean spots or achieve maximum horsepower.

You do not want to install a cassette player when we use cd's right? lol

Try to pick up a MSP ecu and ss afc. Most effective and efficient combo for the price.
After a nice talk with Fox I'm going to go with the MSP ECU and SS AFC. I'm just going to want more after I turbo and this will be the best idea to go with this. Thanks for bringing this up jamesk(cabpatch)
 
cool, i still havnt gotten mine to start yet...i think the 626 crank pulley is different and throwing it off..also the maf is probably ******
 
Anyone hear anything about this brand, seems like a really cool ideal setup so when your not moving its still cooling. Just don't know where I would stick it?
13730-large-400.jpg

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fan-Mounted-Econo-Cool-Remote-Cooler-p-17219.html
 
Hey man, glad you decided to ditch the FMU route and do it right!

If I may offer a word of advice, sell that narrowband since it won't do anything for you and invest in a real wideband - you'll need it as a diagnostic/failsafe once you are tuned and reliable. The tuner can use his own on the dyno and save the settings, but true A/F reading is sometihng you want to have always in a turbo setup. The narrowband doesn't cut it when it comes to the difference between fouling a plug or blowing up your motor. I'm new to the Protege scene, but I've been in the turbo scene for a while elsewhere. Hope that helps!

- Nikita
 
Hey man, glad you decided to ditch the FMU route and do it right!

If I may offer a word of advice, sell that narrowband since it won't do anything for you and invest in a real wideband - you'll need it as a diagnostic/failsafe once you are tuned and reliable. The tuner can use his own on the dyno and save the settings, but true A/F reading is sometihng you want to have always in a turbo setup. The narrowband doesn't cut it when it comes to the difference between fouling a plug or blowing up your motor. I'm new to the Protege scene, but I've been in the turbo scene for a while elsewhere. Hope that helps!

- Nikita

Thanks for the advice I always welcome it. I'm new to the Turbo scene so I'm always open for help and advice on it. Yeah I'll do that, AEM a good brand for the Wideband?
 
Thanks for the advice I always welcome it. I'm new to the Turbo scene so I'm always open for help and advice on it. Yeah I'll do that, AEM a good brand for the Wideband?

Yes, that's exactly what I'm using. Other options include Innovate, PLX Devices, NGK, Autometer (Wideband version), and HKS/Greddy controllers.
 
i love my AEM, simple hookup, no calibration required and it heats up fast. i had an innovate LC-1, thing was garbage, stay away from them, their QC sucks dick.
 
i love my AEM, simple hookup, no calibration required and it heats up fast. i had an innovate LC-1, thing was garbage, stay away from them, their QC sucks dick.

Yeah I think I was just going to go with AEM being that everyone uses them and has nothing but good things to say about them. Haha I love your choice of words for the QC.
 
Yes, that's exactly what I'm using. Other options include Innovate, PLX Devices, NGK, Autometer (Wideband version), and HKS/Greddy controllers.

Wastegate on the way...ordering Turbo this weekend or Monday

Yeah I think I was just going to go with AEM being that everyone uses them and has nothing but good things to say about them. Haha I love your choice of words for the QC.

seriously, numberr one the controller plugs directly into the sensor's cable so its only like 16" or however long the cable is away from the sensor. which leads to the main problem.

on innovates forum an electrical engineer took his LC1 apart and discovered the power circuit in it is simplistic and complete garbage for the type of device it needs to run. it easily overheats and shorts out. so he improved it, which didn't cost much at all, and since hasn't had a damn problem with his. he gave this info to innovate on their forum. this was months ago and i doubt they took his advice to make it better.

that was the problem i was having. once it got hot enough it would crap out on me, completely dead, gauge would show no connection. but once it cooled off it would work again and do it's free air calibration. this would happen a lot. and i was constantly dealing with it doing it's own free air calibration on startup. so then later when i got time i would have to take the sensor out and recalibrate it. this happened like every other day that it got to the point where i would just calibrate it on deceleration fuel cut, lift off the throttle in gear and give it a few seconds then calibrate it with the button. got it close enough.

only good thing is they use generic bosch sensors that you can find anywhere. advance auto has them for like $30-50. but they need to be calibrated with the unit. the sensors AEM uses, i havn't searched for so i dunno how easy they are to get, or how expensive.

there are people out there that have been running LC-1's for years completely trouble free. but like i said, their QC sucks so it's a luck of the draw.
 
seriously, numberr one the controller plugs directly into the sensor's cable so its only like 16" or however long the cable is away from the sensor. which leads to the main problem.

on innovates forum an electrical engineer took his LC1 apart and discovered the power circuit in it is simplistic and complete garbage for the type of device it needs to run. it easily overheats and shorts out. so he improved it, which didn't cost much at all, and since hasn't had a damn problem with his. he gave this info to innovate on their forum. this was months ago and i doubt they took his advice to make it better.

that was the problem i was having. once it got hot enough it would crap out on me, completely dead, gauge would show no connection. but once it cooled off it would work again and do it's free air calibration. this would happen a lot. and i was constantly dealing with it doing it's own free air calibration on startup. so then later when i got time i would have to take the sensor out and recalibrate it. this happened like every other day that it got to the point where i would just calibrate it on deceleration fuel cut, lift off the throttle in gear and give it a few seconds then calibrate it with the button. got it close enough.

only good thing is they use generic bosch sensors that you can find anywhere. advance auto has them for like $30-50. but they need to be calibrated with the unit. the sensors AEM uses, i havn't searched for so i dunno how easy they are to get, or how expensive.

there are people out there that have been running LC-1's for years completely trouble free. but like i said, their QC sucks so it's a luck of the draw.
I hear you man I trust what your saying I'm going to roll with the AEM Wideband

Does anyone know anything about the AEM TRU-BOOST Controller or ever used it?
 

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