mazdaspeed 6 bov or bpv
- Thread starter stef32788
- Start date
amilliems6
Member
- :
- MazdaSpeed6
Yes, you'll run too rich and get serious backfires fairly often. It is driveable if you like lots of turbo noises and really don't care about performance though.... The OEM BPV works the BEST of anything you can put on your car. There are many people who claim to have had problems with them and MAYBE 1/3 of them did have some type of related problem, but the rest are just blowing "smoke"... I currently run the OEM BPV at 21 psi boost and it works much smoother and faster than the several aftermarket brands I've run... YMMV
Any comments on the forge bpv or su turbosmart bpv?
Didn't try the Turbosmart, but I did the Forge. It is a very good piston/spring BPV, but it has the same issues as all the rest of the piston/spring units. namely their slow reaction due to the weight of the piston, the friction of the piston/bore interface, the inconsistent operation due to lubrication variances and cleanliness, just to name a few. If I went away from the OEM design, I would still run a piston-type, but I prefer the design of the TurboXS recirc BPV. One thing you lose with the OEM version is the big whoosh as the excess manifold pressure is vented. The OEM valve works so quickly that the excess pressure is vented almost immediately and doesn't have time to build up for the big whoosh. This may by why so many think it leaks.
Mine leaked when my boost that used to be spiking at 20 was holding 16 and tapering down to 12-13.
What makes you think it is(was?) leaking? The boost levels you posted here are normal operation depending on temps, load, etc. Been there, done that during my mod process. So many people don't understand that the ECU targets "torque" interpreted as Load, NOT boost levels. If it hits the target load at 12 psi, then that's what you get on your gauge.
The boost-to-load value varies greatly depending on temps, TPS, rpms, gear, etc. The ECU also closes the throttle (regardless of pedal position) at higher rpms to limit load, among other things.
If anyone hasn't already, I recommend they take the time to thoroughly review the information provided by Cobb.(http://forums.cobbtuning.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=117)
Last edited:
12-13 psi in a speed 6 is not in the normal operating range. . . At least as far as I know. You obviosly know more about this than I do. All I know is that my boost readings increased when I installed my forge. My car wasn't stock either. I had an intake / test pipe before I changed the bpv.
Rather than regurgitate the entire ECU operation to explain how it works, please read the info I referenced earlier. If you think your OEM BPV was leaking and affecting your boost, please wrap it up and send it to me and I'll save it as a spare for my car. I'll pay a couple bucks postage...
Forzda-
After admittedly only skimming the Cobb information about our boost control systems, what it appears you are saying/I'm getting is that the computer will control the wastegate to a desired torque output, regardless of what boost level that may come at. As an example, if the ECU thinks the car is outputting a required 250ft-lbs @10psi, then it would fully modulate the wastegate actuator to maintain at that. Someone else's car might think the car is outputting 250ft-lbs@15psi, and modulate around that pressure.
In my case I'm seeing roughly 10Psi(g) max, through all gears. Last night I pulled the turbo inlet/outlet system apart. Didn't find any obvious cases of leak. Reading the Cobb pages, it states that a completely disabled ECU boost control system (0% WGDC, all turbo outlet pressure ported to wastegate actuator) would show as 7-10 psig. I'm wondering if this is my problem. I can see a developed 10psig, and steady, from 2k rpm all the way to redline. The car still seems to get up and go (this coming from me who just traded in an 02 Corvette), but I would say obviously has more. I would like to maximize the potential that I have now....
After taking a look at the stock BPV last night, I don't believe it is leaking. I hear it definitely actuate on throttle lift-off, and the tone is different than the bleed down sound I hear on throttle (I hear distinctly the suck of the turbo/pressurizing, and a de-pressurizing - wastegate flow??).
I have seen a post about a "pen test" for leaking BOV (but no idea what it's talking about), and plan on doing a vacuum leak check as well. I've recieved a few P04xx codes, so will be walking down the Evap Emissions purge system by hand to identify any problems.
Any guidance/direction would be appreciated. I have a fair amount of knowledge, more than enough tools, just short on time
.
Jon
After admittedly only skimming the Cobb information about our boost control systems, what it appears you are saying/I'm getting is that the computer will control the wastegate to a desired torque output, regardless of what boost level that may come at. As an example, if the ECU thinks the car is outputting a required 250ft-lbs @10psi, then it would fully modulate the wastegate actuator to maintain at that. Someone else's car might think the car is outputting 250ft-lbs@15psi, and modulate around that pressure.
In my case I'm seeing roughly 10Psi(g) max, through all gears. Last night I pulled the turbo inlet/outlet system apart. Didn't find any obvious cases of leak. Reading the Cobb pages, it states that a completely disabled ECU boost control system (0% WGDC, all turbo outlet pressure ported to wastegate actuator) would show as 7-10 psig. I'm wondering if this is my problem. I can see a developed 10psig, and steady, from 2k rpm all the way to redline. The car still seems to get up and go (this coming from me who just traded in an 02 Corvette), but I would say obviously has more. I would like to maximize the potential that I have now....
After taking a look at the stock BPV last night, I don't believe it is leaking. I hear it definitely actuate on throttle lift-off, and the tone is different than the bleed down sound I hear on throttle (I hear distinctly the suck of the turbo/pressurizing, and a de-pressurizing - wastegate flow??).
I have seen a post about a "pen test" for leaking BOV (but no idea what it's talking about), and plan on doing a vacuum leak check as well. I've recieved a few P04xx codes, so will be walking down the Evap Emissions purge system by hand to identify any problems.
Any guidance/direction would be appreciated. I have a fair amount of knowledge, more than enough tools, just short on time
.Jon
- :
- 2011 Mustang GT
Jon, the pen test is simple. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner on this:
-Remove BPV from car
-take pen (or other object that won't damage piston) and push up on piston inside valve
-use your thumb to cover smaller nipple once piston is up above resting position
-if good, piston should not move (or move slightly) it should not return to its resting position
I recommend you do it several times just to make sure all is right with it.
-Remove BPV from car
-take pen (or other object that won't damage piston) and push up on piston inside valve
-use your thumb to cover smaller nipple once piston is up above resting position
-if good, piston should not move (or move slightly) it should not return to its resting position
I recommend you do it several times just to make sure all is right with it.
