replace rotors or have them machined

R

reut1

:
03 p5, 92 miata
recently my car has been shuddering a little bit while braking telling me my rotors are warping. I dont know if the rotors have been machined before or not. Also would I need to do all 4, or just the front two. My civic before this only had front disc so i knew I had just two to replace.

also when i bought the car end of july they put new pads on all around. So if I replace or machine the rotors, would I need to do new pads since the rotor has been warped? or are they fine to keep
 
Doing my brakes this weekend. I got 4 Brembo non-slotted rotors and Axxis ceramic pads for 250.00 . I'd do all at once and end it. If price is an issue, you can get 4 stock type rotors & non ceramic pads under 200.00 Just check the "How-to section" as there are some tricks to changing the rears. Don't cut warped rotors... Don't re-use pads IMO....


http://www.importrp.com/search.php?mode=search
 
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reut1 said:
recently my car has been shuddering a little bit while braking telling me my rotors are warping. I dont know if the rotors have been machined before or not. Also would I need to do all 4, or just the front two. My civic before this only had front disc so i knew I had just two to replace.

also when i bought the car end of july they put new pads on all around. So if I replace or machine the rotors, would I need to do new pads since the rotor has been warped? or are they fine to keep
Click to expand...

Personally, I would replace pads and rotors at the same time - go to RockAuto.com for some good deals on ceramic pads and premium rotors.
 
so i really should do new pads if there were new ones put on 5k miles ago?

raserx: let me know how your new rotors and pads work out. ill probably go with those since the price isnt terrible
 
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Pads need to bed with the rotor they will be used with. Since the current pads are bedded with the rotors that will be replaced, the pads also must be replaced.

$250 for quality pads and rotors all the way around is a good deal.
 
yeah if you turn rotors most places charge ya like 10 each or some 15 each when you can get new ones for 11 to 20 depends where you go
 
No.
1. When it is safe to do so - While going ~35 MPH pull the parking brake with the button pushed in (so it doesn't lock) just to see if the rear brakes are causing the shudder.

Jack and remove the (front or rear depedning on the answer from #1) wheels. Spin
the rotors. One will go 'whoosh whoosh whoosh' as it moves in and out against the caliper. You may even see it.

This will be the rotor you replace with a new stock unit.

That is all.

Turning the rotor will only make it more likely to warp again in the future.

Be careful stopping hard on the highway - try to brake in phases and let the rotor turn so the hot pad doesn't sit on the same place on the rotor and heat it all in one place (which warps them ;).
 
advise tip: UNLESS you have aftermarket blank(no drilling or anything) do not bother with turning down your rotors. the ones that are made these days are made to just over spec to keep prices down anyways. so go with aftermarket ones anyways, they will last longer and can get turned down (if not crossdrilled/slotted) oh hawk pads if they make them for the protege5, they're just amazing in general.
 
The ManLaw said:
advise tip: UNLESS you have aftermarket blank(no drilling or anything) do not bother with turning down your rotors. the ones that are made these days are made to just over spec to keep prices down anyways. so go with aftermarket ones anyways, they will last longer and can get turned down (if not crossdrilled/slotted) oh hawk pads if they make them for the protege5, they're just amazing in general.
Click to expand...

+2 on all this...they warp from heat, if it is warped, turning it down thinner to get rid of warp will only make them heat faster & warp sooner again. Had Brembo c/s with Hawk HPS pads. Rotors & pads wore very evenly, lasted 75k miles, warped none, braking was great. Only issue with Hawks was slightly more dusting than oem but if washing car weekly or biweekly you'd never notice. Get some Goodridge stainless steel brake lines too. Worth every penny.
 
well i know its just the front pads making the shuddering, but i figure ill replace all 4 just to get it all done with for a few years. I was thinking of going with the same rotors and pads that raserx suggested since 250 is not all that high to do a full brake job.

the car is just a daily driver so I dont think i need to go all out with hawk pads or braided lines, as much as id love to. hehe. I gotta be able to save some money to pay for the car too! and maybe do some more mods down the line.
 
okay so looking into pads more, my friend who does work on my car says that ceramics will generate more dust (doesnt matter) and will be a little louder and might be sqeakier. are hawk pads squeaky at all? loud brakes are one thing i can not stand on my car so I will go non ceramic if that is the case.
 
define loud. you will stop better, stronger, and less fading. as for the louder? if you properly install the brakes, they should not squeak or make noise until you hit the squeal section of the pad (yes they exist like the g-spot). you will see more dust because facts are facts, stronge braking will use up more pad, but the ceramics will last longer than cheapo. go to advanced auto and get theirs. DONT go to pepboys, nor tell pepboys im telling you not to go there. i worked for them...twice...
 
since the front brakes do most of the stopping, i would replace frt pads and rotors first.cutting rotors tends to create more problems, thinner metal more prone to warping.change the fronts and see if you still have a pulsation.if ya still have a slight pulsation i would replace rear rotors and just sand the pads down if there that new.As for pads go with a non-metalic pad and a slotted rotor.im running power slot rotors and hawk pads on all 4 corners and have no noise issues
 
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