Thanks will be adding to how-to section shortly
What you need:
- 3, 1 quart (946ml) bottles of 75W-90 gear oil
- 3 feet of 1/2 inch clear plastic tubing
- Ratchet (not a wrench) with a 23mm socket (24mm will also work but it'll be a bit loose)
- A bucket for collecting the old oil
- 2 jack stands and a jack (hydraulic or the emergency one)
- A sidewalk
- Run the car for about 10 minutes to get the transmission oil warmed up (it's more fluid when it's warm)
- Park one side of the car on a sidewalk
- Use a jack to raise the car so that it's level then lower it onto the jackstands
- Get under the car and spray the drain and fill plugs with WD-40 or PB blaster
- Loosen the fill bolt (if you can't, STOP HERE)
- Place a bucket under the drain bolt
- Remove the drain bolt and let the oil empty into the bucket
- Once the transmission is empty, screw the drain bolt back in and tighten it
- Remove the fill bolt and run the tube from the top of the engine down into the fill hole of the transmission
- Open one of the gear oil bottles and attach the tube to the end of the bottle
- Stab a hole into the bottom of the oil bottle and let the oil flow!
- Do this for the second and third bottle
- On the third bottle you'll need someone under the car to let you know when the transmission is full (it'll start leaking out the fill hole)
- Screw the fill bolt back in and tighten
- Lower the car and enjoy!
See pages 05–15A–1 and 05–15A–2 of the service manual for help locating the drain and fill bolts. They are attached for your convenience as well as a picture from the underside of my car.
Thanks to all the guys who helped me in my original thread.
Last edited by CheeseHelmet; 10-03-2009 at 10:37 AM.
That's what I was thinking too...?
I plan on changing my fluid this week and was just curious about the benefit of parking on a sidewalk. heh-heh. I've got 4 jack stands and a flat driveway so if I need to tilt the front end up more to drain, I'll just raise the jack stands up.
Otherwise it's a good write up!
which screw is the drain plug? lol stupid question i know but just curious cause im about to see if this works a little on my gears sticking. I took my car to jiffy lube and they told me i should replace my rear main seal. not sure if i should pull the tranny apart..
The bolt on the bottom. The one on the top right of the last pic.
thats what common sense was telling me lol thanks. Now i gotta go buy a 23 mm socket.. Is mobile 1 synthetic 75/90 ok to use im not boosted or anything prob better then whats in there now. Im over 100 k and doubt its ever been changed.
I think he may have just came across a little harsh. This is a good community we have here and it's always okay to ask questions.
I went with the Redline when I changed mine last month. It's expensive, but I'll probably only change it once a year so I don't mind spending the couple of extra bucks. I have owned my P5 for 2-1/2 years and never changed it so I was expecting a dramatic improvement like everyone posts. Meh- feels the exact same to me. Haha! But it's nice to know it's fresh fluid.
Edit: The original post was not intended to come off as harsh but I just dont see the logic in his statement.
Last edited by StealthWyvern; 08-05-2010 at 11:28 PM.
Hey, what manual transmission fluid would you all suggest? I typed in the weight into the Amazon search engine and was faced with at least 5 different brands. Is there anything special to look for? I was looking at this
But I need more advice before I purchase. I just want to know if I can use any brand as long as the weight is correct.
Waiting to install:
Altenator, starter, clutch, flywheel.
Just installed, tokico blues and msp springs.
Wanting:Summer Glau rear tokico blues.
That's what I went with and many other members agree to use. Some say to use GM Syncromesh too.