MSP 2731 Goes Forged

Unless your drive on high RPM's , it's not a problem that factory harmonic dumper isn't in place anymore.
After all internal are more stronger and can take more stress
 
The only 2 things I think you missed the boat on are the AWR oil pan and DocB Racing oil pump. Our oiling system is vastly insufficient and on a built engine you want al lthe oil you can get!
 
Very nice..very nice!

I'd wait on the AFC/440's...run it on the stock ecu/injectors during the break in period to make sure everything is alright. Not sure if your relocating the MAF but try getting that done before you start it up.

My point is...for the break in period, make sure you have no codes...idle/vacuum issues etc..etc. If all goes well then install with AFC...wait abit, then the 440's. Step by step to help track if problems occur.
 
Very nice build ghost , I must say ,I am jealous lol !!!!!!!!!!
You Have a lot of things that are on my wish list
 

Quote from first link :

" The stock damper works just fine as long as you do not make many changes to the motor, such as HP or RPM, from when it was stock and if the damper is not very old. When you start changing those things, you cannot count on your stock damper to do its job. Not to mention if that damper is old and worn out, the outer ring has a good chance of slipping or even separating from the rest of the damper and coming off your engine completely! "

Bottom line is there's nothing prefect to this world and if you try to make it it requires lots of money which won't be worth the spending since he's not building a rocket for NASA.
Common sense is obvious that stock crank pulley does its job, there's no proof how good it does though either.
Counting that he's engine is/will balanced before its installed makes it safe for him to drive it on the street for considerable long time.
Like I mentioned before the priority of this "critical" part of the engine comes to play when RPM-redline is increased considerably compared to stock and like I mentioned internals are upgraded to hold more stress/vibration so there won't be a problem at some extend unless your considering boosting non stop then .......... things can be discussed from another view.
 
Damn I knew I should have put a condom on before I opened this thread..... Awesome build dude!!
 
Borat-VeryNice.jpg


i want to do the sexy time with those parts. excellent choices!
 
That's a serious build man, you accumulated a lot of good parts. I'd throw a gt28rs on there since you're blowing your wad already.... And yes, MegaSquirt is a really capable and adaptable EMS system, I would not rule it out. s***, have fun with that car man.

Thank you and I will be getting a gt28rs in the next month or so.

nice build. just dont like the crank pulley. even though the engine is balanced, i prefer to keep the factory harmonic damper there.

Thank you for all your help with this and after reading the articles you linked I'm having second thoughts about the crank and the rest of the lightweight pulleys. Hmmmmmm....

Quote from first link :

" The stock damper works just fine as long as you do not make many changes to the motor, such as HP or RPM, from when it was stock and if the damper is not very old. When you start changing those things, you cannot count on your stock damper to do its job. Not to mention if that damper is old and worn out, the outer ring has a good chance of slipping or even separating from the rest of the damper and coming off your engine completely! "

Bottom line is there's nothing prefect to this world and if you try to make it it requires lots of money which won't be worth the spending since he's not building a rocket for NASA.
Common sense is obvious that stock crank pulley does its job, there's no proof how good it does though either.
Counting that he's engine is/will balanced before its installed makes it safe for him to drive it on the street for considerable long time.
Like I mentioned before the priority of this "critical" part of the engine comes to play when RPM-redline is increased considerably compared to stock and like I mentioned internals are upgraded to hold more stress/vibration so there won't be a problem at some extend unless your considering boosting non stop then .......... things can be discussed from another view.

So if I don't boost all the time or run her at high RPM's I will be ok for a while but not having the damper will wear out my parts quicker and increases my chances of breaking something, correct?

The only 2 things I think you missed the boat on are the AWR oil pan and DocB Racing oil pump. Our oiling system is vastly insufficient and on a built engine you want al lthe oil you can get!

I was thinking about the AWR oil pan and just recently read about the DocB oil pump. I think I will move these to the top of the list for next purchases. Thanks for the advice!

Very nice..very nice!

I'd wait on the AFC/440's...run it on the stock ecu/injectors during the break in period to make sure everything is alright. Not sure if your relocating the MAF but try getting that done before you start it up.

My point is...for the break in period, make sure you have no codes...idle/vacuum issues etc..etc. If all goes well then install with AFC...wait abit, then the 440's. Step by step to help track if problems occur.

What if the AFC is already hooked up and soldered? Would just disconnecting the vacuum line basicly turn it off or since it is soldered to the ECU is it always on? I wasn't planning on running the 440's till I get my disco potato installed. I'm not relocating my MAF and am running the Boostscience RDV recirculated.

Very nice build ghost , I must say ,I am jealous lol !!!!!!!!!!
You Have a lot of things that are on my wish list

Thank you and just keep working on your list, it has taken me many years to get to this point.

Damn I knew I should have put a condom on before I opened this thread..... Awesome build dude!!

Borat-VeryNice.jpg


i want to do the sexy time with those parts. excellent choices!

Hahahaha, glad I could provide such a exciting thread!
 
I picked up a magnetic oil drain plug and will be taking it over to the shop today. The battery is back in and if they don't get to busy they will be putting in the short shifter and the clutch line today. I'm reading up on the engine break in process and we should be firing her up sometime this week.
 
That is one wicked MSP! You should drive out our way for a meet sometime.

Where you at? Once she is back on the road I'm trying to make it to as many meets and events as possible.

Hey, who's doing your build? Are you happy with their service & prices?

J and F motors in Arlington did the motor. They are a BMW specialist and unless you're a shop then your motor takes a lower priority. So depending on what your needs are there might be a better place to have one done at. I'm told Pete does amazing work over there so it should be worth the wait. My boy owns a shop on Glebe called Town Car Repair and they did everything else. He suggested J and F because he has had a couple motors built by them and has always been happy with their work. This is my first build so I'm not sure what the average pricing for these services are but I paid J and F $800 something. Thankfully my boy's shop does my work for free which has helped big time. I am taking them all out for dinner and drinks once it's done and am giving them some loot on the side as well.
 
J and F motors in Arlington did the motor. They are a BMW specialist and unless you're a shop then your motor takes a lower priority. So depending on what your needs are there might be a better place to have one done at. I'm told Pete does amazing work over there so it should be worth the wait. My boy owns a shop on Glebe called Town Car Repair and they did everything else. He suggested J and F because he has had a couple motors built by them and has always been happy with their work. This is my first build so I'm not sure what the average pricing for these services are but I paid J and F $800 something. Thankfully my boy's shop does my work for free which has helped big time. I am taking them all out for dinner and drinks once it's done and am giving them some loot on the side as well.

That's awesome. I don't need a motor build (so far, thank God), but the guy I trust to work on my car is down in Richmond and seems to be a bit busy these days. I thought it might be nice to look into local shops with decent rates for simple installs and minor work that I might not be able to tackle myself.
 
That's awesome. I don't need a motor build (so far, thank God), but the guy I trust to work on my car is down in Richmond and seems to be a bit busy these days. I thought it might be nice to look into local shops with decent rates for simple installs and minor work that I might not be able to tackle myself.

My boy Rob and the guys at his shop are the only place I've had work on any of my cars for the last 10 years. I trust them completely and there work has always been top notch. His father owned and ran the shop before he passed away at which point Rob took over. They have built a solid reputation for doing good, honest work at fair rates. Also they stay open late for those of us who work a day job.
 
I'm in Central VA. Specifically Lynchburg but there are also meets in Richmond.

Word. That is a little bit of driving but not to bad so keep me updated on the larger events and I will try to make it to them.
 
What if the AFC is already hooked up and soldered? Would just disconnecting the vacuum line basicly turn it off or since it is soldered to the ECU is it always on? I wasn't planning on running the 440's till I get my disco potato installed. I'm not relocating my MAF and am running the Boostscience RDV recirculated.

Ah well don't bother...if the AFC is already installed and the car ran fine...then just keep an eye on your wideband. Recirculating is fine too.
 
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