Can you add power locks to 2010 Mazda 3 Sport?

The 2010 Mazda 3 Sport has power windows as a standard item but no power locks. Can they be added later? A tint/alarm installer said he could do it by purchasing the lock/acuator for each door from Mazda and adding an alarm/keyless entry system to it. Does that sound feasible?

yep. I have done it on other vehicles.

Power Locks and Keyless Entry mazda 3 2010

Texstokes
- Yeh, I would like to add Power Locks and Keyless Entry to my 2010 Mazda 3 i Sport as well. Did the installer give an estimate on the cost?

GoFast
- Do you know if the install of Power Locks and Keyless Entry voids any Mazda warranties? Also, when I locate an installer should I make sure they get the parts from Mazda? Any thoughts on how to find a installer in my city -
Car Alarm installers in the yellow pages?

Thanks!

Check out: http://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm

I installed their system in my Focus ZX3. It was a long process by myself but never had any problems with it! It was like 140 bucks I think for the 2 door version with the alarm package or something like that. Definitely worth it.

Power Locks and Keyless Entry mazda 3 2010 2

Sport 6 - I asked a couple places today and they said the warranty would not be effected by adding power locks and keyless entry - do you know this to be the case? Thanks.

OK... my project to add power locks and keyless entry to my plain jane Mazda 3 is complete and I don't know if this is the best way or the cheapest way but it was the way I had it done and I was happy with the results.... and because I got the car so cheap, the cost was a lot less than having to get the next model up...

I bought the four Mazda door locks with built in acuators from Montgomery Mazda in Charlotte, NC... the local Mazda dealer here in Austin wanted $130 a lock for them but I ordered them from Jason at Montgomery Mazda through their online parts website (www.onlinemazdaparts.com ) and got them for approximately $80 each with no sales tax and FREE shipping....

I took the locks to Robert at Austin Sunshades Window Tinting and Alarms here in Austin ( www.austinsunshades.com ) for the installation of the keyless entry/alarm and the locks... I installed an Audiovox Prestige APS255 which was $200 installed and then $65 per door for the installation of the door locks/acuators... so my total cost for the project (locks/acuators, keyless entry/alarm and installation) was $780...

The system was set up to lock all the doors when the ignition is turned on and they unlock when the key is turned off... they can also be activated with the fob as well... after a month of having to manually lock and unlock the doors myself and continually forgetting to lock at least one of them, I am now enjoying my new car much more than before...

Here are the part numbers for the locks/acuators for my 2010 Mazda 3...

BCS3-58-319B
BBM4-59-310B
BBM4-72-310
BBM4-73-310

We're in the same boat. My sister just bought a 2010 Mazda3 i Sport, got a fantastic deal on it and she's extremely happy with it, just a bit bummed there's not power locks.

Im trying to look into how we can get this installed for her, so thank you for the details Texstokes.

Do you know if all of those parts you picked up were necessary? Some people are telling me that the wiring/parts may actually be in the door, and that Mazda might just use the same door in all cars as a cost saving measure.

Pics?









... of sister?

Parts for power locks

The four parts are the four locks, one for each door, that have the acuators are built into whole unit.... there is a plug where it plugs into the wiring harness and two cables which attach to the door lever... you are basically replacing the whole lock.... I didn't watch the install so I don't know exactly how he wired them...

Awesome, thanks for the details. If she wants to move forward, I might start looking around locally for an installer. She says she's ok with it, but I wonder if she'll get tired of using the key and maybe missing doors being locked like you said.

The question on my mind is how can a car made in 2010 NOT have standard power locks!

Blasphemy!

NewMazdaThree said:

Sport 6 - I asked a couple places today and they said the warranty would not be effected by adding power locks and keyless entry - do you know this to be the case? Thanks.

Click to expand...

Hey sorry for not paying attention to this thread. If something went specifically wrong with the door lock and you installed the door locks then I wouldn't think they would cover it. Same thing if something broke taking the doors apart. But I would say if its something completely unrelated to the door/locks it should be fine...

Though if it was a wiring problem (in that kit, you wire in the power/headlight flashers and all that, I ordered an alarm kit when I did it too) then they might claim it was caused by that.

derspi said:

The question on my mind is how can a car made in 2010 NOT have standard power locks!

Blasphemy!

Click to expand...

Yeah no kidding!

dang, i've been searching for a couple weeks now on how to do this b/c i've come into the same thing, got a great deal on a mazda3 sport but no power locks. I did ask my dealer when i bought the car if i did anything like this or remote start if it would void any warranty and they said no it wouldn't.

Here are the part numbers for the locks/acuators for my 2010 Mazda 3...

BCS3-58-319B
BBM4-59-310B
BBM4-72-310
BBM4-73-310
Texstokes is offline Report Post Reply With Quote---
**i think the top one is supposed to be BCS-58-310B...that's the part number i got from 2 dealerships in my town..

Kain said:

Pics?









... of sister?

Click to expand...

Hahaha...LOL!!!

So, after just two weeks of manually locking and unlocking the doors on my new Mazda 3i Sport, I've had about enough and started tearing into the dash and doors to see what it will take to add power locks.

I've downloaded the wiring diagrams from the Mazda Tech Info site (http://www.mazdatechinfo.com/) and it looks like the functionality for central power locks (but not keyless) is already built into the BCU and it's just a matter of adding the mechanical/electrical bits and pieces in the doors and wiring them in.

I just bought the locks/actuators from Jason at Montgomery Mazda (http://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/) along with the driver and passenger side switches/interior handles/screws for central locking ($415.97 S&H included). I plan to hook these up to a Clarion K20 keyless entry controller ($39.99 on Amazon S&H included).

My preference would be to do as little cutting into the existing wiring harness as possible. I was looking at the driver's side front door wiring harness last night and I believe I can just modify it to add the wires needed to power the lock/actuator and to tie-in the switch instead of buying a completely new door harness. After searching online for a few hours, it looks like the connector pins needed are Sumitomo Wiring Systems series TS size 090 non-sealed female copper/tin for 2.0mm wire. I've only been able to find these at New United Race Tech for $2.33 each! Pretty steep considering pins like these normally run about $0.29 each for domestically made cars.

Anybody know where else I can buy these in the USA or if a less expensive equivalent is available from someone like Tyco/AMP?

In case anyone is interested, part numbers for the additional Mazda parts for central locking are:

Switch, Left, GS3L-66-660A
Switch, Right, GS3M-66-660A
Screw Door Switch, EG21-58-304 (4 required)
Handle Inner, Left, BBM6-59-330 02
Handle Inner, Right, BBM6-58-330 02

The correct part number for the Right Door Latch/Actuator is BCS3-58-310D.

Is all the electrical connectors and fuses already present in my car & ready for "plug-in" installation?

The back doors are pre-wired to provide power to the new actuators. The front doors, however, are not, and you need to run two wires in each door from the connector in the new actuator to the connector in the door pillar. If you add the switches to the doors as well, each switch also needs one wire from the switch to the connector in the door pillar and one wire from the switch to the ground wire in the existing door harness.

The pins that Mazda uses in the electrical connectors are not available in the USA. I ended up modifying the existing front door harnesses using pigtailed male and female pins I cannibalized from a first generation 2002-2007 Mazda 6 driver's side door harness I bought off of e-bay. The connector which plugs into the actuator needs female pins and the connector which plugs into the door pillar needs male pins.

The dashboard wiring harness already includes the wiring and fuses to power the new actuators and switches, BUT...

After I got all of the missing wiring sorted out and installed, the locks wouldn't work. The switches are working, but the relays in the Body Control Module don't fire. Talking with Jason at Montgomery Mazda, the BCM part number is the same for all manual transmission cars, so we think we need to add the Keyless Receiver to make the OEM system work.

Rather than test that theory and spend a couple of hundred dollars more on this project, I decided to just use the Clarion K20 to control everything. I tapped into +12V constant power and ground in the driver's side kick panel and ignition switched +12V power with a fuse tap in the interior fuse panel, also in the driver's side kick panel. I also tapped into the parking light and horn wires in the driver's side kick panel. Finally, I disconnected the door actuator power wires from the BCM and re-routed them to the K20. All of the taps were made with Posi-Taps, so I didn't have to cut any existing wires. The OEM wiring harness isolates the driver's door actuator from the others, so I added a relay to the K20 for progressive unlocking. The interior light already turns on when the driver's door is unlocked, so I didn't have to tap into the interior light wire.

Everything is now working except for the switches. I am now trying to figure out how to integrate these switches into the K20. The OEM system uses a one-wire multiplexed signal to control the locks. When you press the lock button the voltage in the signal wire is 2.5V. When you press the unlock button the voltage in the signal wire is 0V. The rest of the time the voltage in the signal wire is 5V.

Anybody have an idea on how I could uses these signals to control the Clarion K20?

For what it's worth, attached is an electrical schematic to get the OEM switches to work. The two relays on the K20 for lock and unlock and the extra relay for driver's priority progressive unlocking each need another relay in series wired to the switches. I used a couple of DEI 451M Door Lock Relay Modules which are pretty inexpensive.

When the unlock switch is pressed, it sends a negative pulse to the unlock relays. I also added a diode to isolate the positive voltage BCM signals from the unlock relays.

I am still working in the window comparator to get the lock switches to work and will post an updated schematic for anyone who may be interested.

Main thing to worry about is if someone at the dealership got locked in your car. If they could not get out and died they would probably charge extra for the service. Maybe not if you are on good terms with the service Manager. Just something else to worry about!!