How do you replace the alternator?

SocialStealth

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2002 Mazda Protege ES, 120k miles
Has anyone replaced the alternator?
I'm trying to find some step by step directions to replacing it.

2002 mazda protege
 
I saw a how to somewhere on the forum but after searching for a while i had no luck. here's a quick guide for you.

1. loosen alt tension bolt (top of the alt facing the passenger side)
2. Loosen the the main bolt to the alt (go underneath the car and reach up to the alt)
3. disconnect the the harness going to the alt (there is black plastic ground wire that's pernantly connected to the alt that you'll need to unscrew)
4. completely take the the first 2 bolts off.
5. Removal is a pain though so you can try either way. 1. remove the alt from the bottom of the car by twisting, turning, cussing, and crowbar...ing. OR remove the sway bar and carefully push the vacumn lines out and take it out from the top.
6. put all of the bolts back and connect the harness. put tension on the alt to stretch the belt (check to see if it needs to be replaced as well) and then tighten down the tension bolt.

This is by no means a detailed write up but you should be able to figure it out. Get a friend to help.
 
I have the sedan ES, so I don't have a sway bar (upyours)
But could I just remove the hoses? Or is that a no-no//too hard?

Also, Is the wire in this picture the engine block -to- chassis (ground) wire??
( I can't follow where it goes )
attachment.php
 
what you were refering to isn't the sway bar, it's the STRUT bar, they are NOT the same thing and they do different things
 
what you were refering to isn't the sway bar, it's the STRUT bar, they are NOT the same thing and they do different things

sorry, don't know what I was thinking. Right now I have a scratch on my cornea and I'm practically blind without my contacts in.
 
*cough* /change subject

Is the wire in the picture above the engine block -to- chassis (ground) wire??
 
Alright - I got the damn thing disconnected, finally pried out of the *bracket* where the bolt goes through, and no I'm playing the dang game of tetris trying to get the disconnected alternator out of the car! coming up through the top the intake manifold appears to be in the way; trying to go out the bottom, everything else seems to be in the way! Advice???
 
Apparently, if you loosen the hanger bearing bracket, and pull the axle out of the transmission a little bit but not all the way ( so your tranny oil doesn't gush out) it gives you just enough room to get the alternator out the bottom.

or you could take apart your exhaust a bit to make room but the easiest way is usually the hanger bracket.

Edit: I found this link...

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123823839-how-to-replace-the-alternator
 
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Buy an intake manifold gasket, remove intake manifold, easily remove the alterantor, replace, place new intake gasket, re-place manifold. Sound like its too hard? wait till you try the "easy ways"
 
Ya'll are crazy. Minus the Tensioner Bolt (actually 2, the long one that applies/releases tension & the "locking" bolt), every thing else can be done from the bottom. The main wire that bolts onto the alternator, has a plastic cover that you can unclip with your finger (if I remember correctly, it releases from the top, folds down). The other smaller wire you also release and pull with your fingers. Bottom mount bolt comes out, & TRUST ME, unbolt the 2 spring bolts that connect the exhaust manifold to the mid pipe. RATCHET STRAP (or tightly wrapped bungee cord, but ratchet strap is much easier) the mid pipe out of the way, & you can EASILY get the alternator out & back in. Then obviously reverse installation.
 
I just wiggled the ever living farkleblast out of it and it came out the top. Super tight squeeze tho. Much easier to get back in than take out
 
You can take it out from the top without going under it at all....Remove the cruise control servo (three nuts, disconnect harness, swing out of the way, no need to disconnect throttle cables) pull vapor canister off of bracket (no need to disconnect hoses) mind the aluminum high pressure A/C line going into the evaporator (it bends easy). Now you have a decent sized hole to work through. When pulling the alt out of the hole, or putting it in screw the long bolt into the case and use it as a handle to help you wiggle it in and out of the hole. I've done several like this on the ground with out even peeking under the car. It can be done and really isn't that bad of a job. take the belt adjuster on the alt apart, wire brush and apply never seize to all of the hardware. You'll thank yourself later if you ever (and will likely at some point) need to remove that belt!
 
You can take it out from the top without going under it at all....Remove the cruise control servo (three nuts, disconnect harness, swing out of the way, no need to disconnect throttle cables) pull vapor canister off of bracket (no need to disconnect hoses) mind the aluminum high pressure A/C line going into the evaporator (it bends easy). Now you have a decent sized hole to work through. When pulling the alt out of the hole, or putting it in screw the long bolt into the case and use it as a handle to help you wiggle it in and out of the hole. I've done several like this on the ground with out even peeking under the car. It can be done and really isn't that bad of a job. take the belt adjuster on the alt apart, wire brush and apply never seize to all of the hardware. You'll thank yourself later if you ever (and will likely at some point) need to remove that belt!

this is how I did mine, except my AC lines are right in the way, I did manage to get them pushed aside without damaging them, but all in all, was a MAJOR PitA getting it out. I also used that bolt as a handle, made things a LOT easier.
and as iwasajedionce said, so much easier to get back in than out. 4+ hours and a LOT of swearing in removal, 10 minutes to get back in *scratches head* "physics are a lie here !"
and to add insult to injury, once I got it bolted up and got the belt on, tightened it up, I didnt notice the belt was sitting on the lip of one of the pulleys, so I had to buy another brand new belt when I split it :/
 
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