What have you done to your Mazda5 today?

I went with oem. I tried Moog poly ones but they started making noise in a few months and I didn't want to keep greasing them all the time.

Ok I will research and grab some OEM ones.

Part Number: BP4K28156E
Part Number: BP4K28156E

$8.30 a piece. Sound about right?
 
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Ok I will research and grab some OEM ones.

Part Number: BP4K28156E
Part Number: BP4K28156E

$8.30 a piece. Sound about right?
I honestly don't know the numbers because when I ordered they were for the Mazdaspeed 3 rear sway bar not OEM and my car was a 09 anyway. I'm sure you can't really go wrong, I remember that the 2012 and up cars used a new part number and was updated for better life. There should be numerous threads about it on the forum. It's a super easy job though, you don't need a lift even and you can do it with the car still on the ground. If you do jack it up make sure both sides are up so there is no tension on the sway bar.
 
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I honestly don't know the numbers because when I ordered they were for the Mazdaspeed 3 rear sway bar not OEM and my car was a 09 anyway. I'm sure you can't really go wrong, I remember that the 2012 and up cars used a new part number and was updated for better life. There should be numerous threads about it on the form. It's a super easy job though, you don't need a lift even and you can do it with the car still on the ground. If you do jack it up make sure both sides are up so there is no tension on the sway bar.

Thank you!
 
Done with the clutch.
Touched:
Changed gear oil, new clutch, new TOB
New swaybar bushings (stainless brackets with poly bushings, beefy! From JBR), new Axle seals

Work was stretched out over two weeks - one Saturday morning for disassembly and inspection, another Sat 10am-5pm assembly, beer & blah. More parts orders and flywheel resurface in between.
The oil filter adapter is still somewhere in the mail...

Taking out the axles was a pain. Took a huge puller (clamped to brake discs), some heat and penetrating oil to pop them out. Not much visible corrosion but some crud in places.
The JBR brackets are wider than the stock ones. Had to move the crimps on the swaybar a bit further inwards.
Other than that.. it was a smooth drag.
I hear a Tim Taylor grunt.

Did you inspect/repack the axles before putting them back on? What's your mileage and do they look good?
 
Frustrated with mine

3 months ago, did all 4 new bilstein shocks. New trans fluid. New rear brakes. Last month there is a clunking noise from rear passenger. Can't figure out what it is. Shock is tight. Nothing on the inside. Wonder if it is sway bar bushing or sway bar link. SIGH. 89K miles. 2012.Original owner.
Highly likely bushing. Before jumping the gun, you can isolate it by simply disconnecting the end links and zip tie them to the sub frame (this will disconnect the RSB). It is perfectly safe to drive without the RSB. The car will have a slight tendency to go straight in turns (understeer) as the rear will not rotate as easily. You can easily compensate for the slight difference in everyday driving/highway.
 
Highly likely bushing. Before jumping the gun, you can isolate it by simply disconnecting the end links and zip tie them to the sub frame (this will disconnect the RSB). It is perfectly safe to drive without the RSB. The car will have a slight tendency to go straight in turns (understeer) as the rear will not rotate as easily. You can easily compensate for the slight difference in everyday driving/highway.
as always thank you for the info
 
To keep poly bushings quiet, wrap the sway bars with teflon tape, then grease the hell out of them, then install bushings.
 
To keep poly bushings quiet, wrap the sway bars with teflon tape, then grease the hell out of them, then install bushings.

Hey, that teflon trick is new to me, thanks! Wish I had done it last weekend, installing new bushings.
Lube: The prices are all over the place for it. A while back I bought this and the price seems fair. https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Sounds like a lot of work.
Would have been cool if you filmed it.

Sorry, there was no time for documentation, post processing and documenting everything.
We are no Mazda mechanics, some steps and procedures were probably not by the book.
There's a nice guide on another Mazda forum that helped us out - google how-mazdaspeed3-replace-clutch-102245. (no idea if there are animosities, link gets censored... )(rolleyes)

Edit:
Oh yea, that new 40% springier ACT Heavy Duty clutch... my wife hates it!
 
Added a roof rack to my 2014 M5 Sport, easier to install than I thought. Those mounting points are great! Next step, snowboard carrier. Just about to hit the 75k mark, time for a checkup.
 
Added a roof rack to my 2014 M5 Sport, easier to install than I thought. Those mounting points are great! Next step, snowboard carrier. Just about to hit the 75k mark, time for a checkup.
Love my OEM roof rack, I added back in 2014. I have a 21 cubic feet Thule Box on top of it. can't seem to find the key that locks the "mazda" part to the roof rack. Been driving with it exposed. Going to take it to a lock smith to see if he can make me a key.
 
Hey, that teflon trick is new to me, thanks! Wish I had done it last weekend, installing new bushings.
Oh yea, that new 40% springier ACT Heavy Duty clutch... my wife hates it!

Welcome! The Exedy OEM replacement one I put in was actually lighter than the factory clutch, so I can't imagine 40% stiffer is that bad.

Bonus tip: If you wrap with the teflon tape, you don't need any lube.

ALWAYS use lube. :D :D :D :D :D :D

Yeah not necessary to use it, but it's another safeguard from squeaking. I always use both.
 
I think the are made by Thule. Use the number on the lock cylinder to order new keys.

Thanks !!!!!

Just ordered $2.75$

Wish I knew this 6 months ago
Wouldn’t be driving around with ugly side part of roof rack exposed
 
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Love my OEM roof rack, I added back in 2014. I have a 21 cubic feet Thule Box on top of it. can't seem to find the key that locks the "mazda" part to the roof rack. Been driving with it exposed. Going to take it to a lock smith to see if he can make me a key.

Sucks about the key, I got my roof rack on ebay, for $160 from a seller in Canada. Not sure if it's OEM, but it's labeless, though it looks like the Thule Aeroblade.
 
Sucks about the key, I got my roof rack on ebay, for $160 from a seller in Canada. Not sure if it's OEM, but it's labeless, though it looks like the Thule Aeroblade.

Mine is oem

Outside has “Mazda” in big letters

Inside hidden letters it says “Thule”

Key should be here soon

Congrats on your rack. I need mine when we travel to Mexico with 6 people so I can have roof box for luggage
 
Welcome! The Exedy OEM replacement one I put in was actually lighter than the factory clutch, so I can't imagine 40% stiffer is that bad.

That's what I thought, that's why I bought it.
It grabs quick and hard. Fine if you want to go fast, or have fun on a backroad. Not so good for daily commuting in Seattle traffic.
Maybe it will break in a bit & we will develop some muscle (memory) for it.
 
Removed rear sway bar

Clunk still there


So we removed the rear shock completely on passenger side. Clunk is gone. Clunk can NOW be heard on left rear. Shocks are all new (Bilsteins).

So I have a feeling, it is the SHOCK MOUNTs in rear. Going to replace them now.

I am so tired of this unreliable car. Should have bought a Sienna/Odyssey in 2011 instead of this Mazda5. SIGH
 
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After 2 hours of checking everything and 5 test drives
Finally fixed it

Shock mount ok
All bushings and endlinks ok

He added a rear washer between the shock and the shock mount and that cures the problem
 
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