What have you done to your Mazda5 today?

New member here, first post.

Been busy since I got this 2009 5 Sport w/110K a couple of weeks ago from my daughter. Had new ultra high performance all seasons installed, had the sliders and rear windows tinted dark, put on window/ wind guards.

Personally installed everything else: a Hidden Hitch and wiring, changed the plugs and air filter, blacked out all the emblems, and installed a backup camera.

The last 3 days I've been especially busy: I installed front sway bar end links, rear sway bar bushings and end links, front rotors and brakes, and the dreaded cabin filters. Also installed new serpentine belt and A/C belt. What do you think, not too bad for a septuagenarian?

Read all 212 pages of this thread, wish to thank the people here for all the good advice and how to's, especially Vasy and twintrbo! Local garage wanted over $500 just for the labor, thanks for the savings, paid for my tires.
You are very welcome! Glad you found some things useful that I contributed. Sounds like you've been really busy trying to give someone a nice reliable ride, good luck with it!
 
Just got home from 2200 mile road trip through mexico. 6 people. Full loaded roof rack and roof box 21 cubic feet. 24 MPG
 

Attachments

  • bike and roof.jpg
    bike and roof.jpg
    447.2 KB · Views: 160
Ended the rear end link saga. Short version: clunking from the rear, assumed it was OEM end links, couldn't remove the driver's side one, took to local shop who cut it off and offered to install the Moog endlinks I had with me for free, they royally stripped those because they didn't realize there are two nuts and threads on the studs (fine and coarse), I removed the jacked up ones today and installed some Mevotech ones. Clunking is all gone.

Also replaced my rear struts. OEM ones had 114k miles and were super easy to compress. Replaced them with KYB gas-a-just shocks, strut mounts, dust covers, and bump stops. Sagging is gone and rides much better now.
 
Last edited:
Ended the rear end link saga. Short version: clunking from the rear, assumed it was OEM end links, couldn't remove the driver's side one, took to local shop who cut it off and offered to install the Moog endlinks I had with me for free, they royally stripped those because they didn't realize there are two nuts and threads on the studs (fine and coarse), I removed the jacked up ones today and installed some Mevotech ones. Clunking is all gone.

Also replaced my rear struts. OEM ones had 114k miles and were super easy to compress. Replaced them with KYB gas-a-just struts, strut mounts, dust covers, and bump stops. Sagging is gone and rides much better now.

Sounds like a fun weekend project.
 
It was actually fun once I figured out what the hell the shop guy did to the links. The rear shocks were also an easier job than the end links.

Parts I used:

KYB SM5619 rear upper shock mount
KYB SB125 rear suspension bellow and dust cover
KYB 551105 gas-a-just monotube rear shock absorber
Meovtech MS76860 X-Factor rear stabilizer end link

Part that was destroyed:
Moog K80867 rear stabilizer end links
 
I'd been feeling a shutter in the car when starting off in first, but especially in reverse. I know how to drive stick so I was sure it wasn't just me. A little reading and it sounded like motor mounts. Rockauto to the rescue, a front right and lower mount ordered, both Beck-Arnley as I've always had good luck with them. I did the thing with filling the lower mount with epoxy for a little stiffening.

So after having read 4 or 5 articles, and watching 6 or 7 videos, today I installed both mounts. Upper was easy, no problem. Lower wasn't difficult, just a little more involved, and tighter space to work in, obviously. I used a wood padded jack under the oil pan for the top one, then changed to under the tranny for the bottom one, to hold the engine in place as I worked on them.

Luckily everything stayed in place and installation was pretty simple. I don't know what the dealer would have charged, but for $89 dollars in parts delivered, I figure I had to have saved at least a few hundred dollars.

If you need them done, consider doing it yourself. Watch some videos and it all becomes clear.
 
As mentioned in the post they were Beck-Arnley parts from www.rockauto.com

Upper mount: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6167562&cc=1443701&jsn=430

Lower mount: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8005960&cc=1443701&jsn=426

I filled the lower mount with epoxy to stiffen it, but now getting a small amount of vibration. Not sure yet if that's a bad thing, reminds me of British sports cars I've had in the past, feels kind of sporty. If I decide against it, should be easy enough to drill and Dremel it out. Having now done it, aside from jacking the car up and securing it with jack stands, I think I could change the lower mount in 10 minutes or less.
 
Today a shift knob I had ordered arrived, so I installed it. Red carbon fiber over aluminum. Nice weight and I prefer a ball shape as opposed to the factory design.

I removed the shift pattern disk off the factory knob, a little double stick tape to attach it to the console.
 

Attachments

  • FF5A1DEE-41C1-4546-9F61-263C2C477CC2.jpeg
    FF5A1DEE-41C1-4546-9F61-263C2C477CC2.jpeg
    279.6 KB · Views: 169
Replaced the rear shock bump stops and dust covers as the ones I previously received were mispackaged items, so not the right ones (despite the box saying otherwise). Also got the car washed. Need to tackle the front struts at some point soon.
 
New steering wheel...

When my daughter bought the 2009 Mazda5 new they only came with stick in the bottom grade, Sport. Stick was more important to her, but it meant a few things were different, i.e., cheaper.

One of those things was the steering wheel, which on the Sport was plastic rather than leather wrapped. One portion on the back of the plastic wheel had split, and every time I drive it, I feel a rough plastic edge a couple of inches long which sticks out from the wheel, annoying me.

So $30 delivered from Ebay got me a stock leather wrapped wheel in very nice shape, annoyance over. I installed it today after watching a few videos, and the installation went smoothly. A quick cleaning and some ArmorAll and it looks brand new. Not worth it to be annoyed for $30. lol
 
Last edited:
Installed 2nd gen mat hooks in our 2010 MZ5 so that we could use these 3D Maxpider Liners.
45474a908776d5d2b243143199d9b9cc.jpg


0f0d787ebfd67c0555b0ee849138dc2c.jpg


8a8a2613854d51178c981810329e2cc5.jpg


b6849e85d8ac6cf890ab309335e198e4.jpg


cd3495ee534eaed120db53be590b98c9.jpg


63317e51e8da92bd06eaf48048b2d930.jpg
 
Last edited:
Headlight bulb died (Sylvania Xtravision) so I installed some basic H9 bulbs after modifying them to fit. So far, so good. They appear much brighter, which is fine by me as I've always thought the lights were a bit too dim.

Had the first H9 die on me today, so they lasted 4+ months. Package says they're rated at 240 hours and H11s at 270. Xtravision H11s are only rated at 150, so I'm pretty happy with my choice. Bought some more H9s and put 'em in.
 
Replaced battery in one of the two keyfobs. The other is still doing fine. Kind of surprised it died that early (in mid to late 2017) -- the build date of the vehicle is April 2014. Well, technically it didn't die but was barely working. I bought two cheap PKCELL-branded (basically brandless) batteries. We'll see how long they last. But the replacement procedure itself is quite simple: YouTube is your friend if you've never done it.

For those that are not familiar, the battery you need for the remote of 2012+ 5's and many other Mazda vehicles is 1620. So any 3v battery with CR1620 inscribed on the positive should work. The original battery was made by Panasonic.
 
Replaced battery in one of the two keyfobs. The other is still doing fine. Kind of surprised it died that early (in mid to late 2017) -- the build date of the vehicle is April 2014. Well, technically it didn't die but was barely working. I bought two cheap PKCELL-branded (basically brandless) batteries. We'll see how long they last. But the replacement procedure itself is quite simple: YouTube is your friend if you've never done it.

For those that are not familiar, the battery you need for the remote of 2012+ 5's and many other Mazda vehicles is 1620. So any 3v battery with CR1620 inscribed on the positive should work. The original battery was made by Panasonic.

Interesting. My June 2011 purchased new 2012, went 86k miles and 2017 june till one battery died.
 
Interesting. My June 2011 purchased new 2012, went 86k miles and 2017 june till one battery died.

To me, 3.5 years is not that long for a remote battery. What you got out of yours is more reasonable. Oh well, at least they're cheap and simple to replace.
 
Last month, I bought this 2011 Mazda 5 2.0 in Hong Kong after my baby was born. It is relatively cheap compare with Honda and Toyota MPVs.

Even it is a baby carrier, parts are already on the way.
It is an used car and found that the original owner was a smoker, so I replaced the shift knob and steering wheel last week.
344upvs.jpg


Interior lights are crap, so I need brighter
2cgmqt5.jpg


LED headlights
24bs20x.jpg


2enrst5.jpg


Super bright trunk light and the TEIN Street Advance in the trunk
a32eyt.jpg


TEIN coilover installed. Haven't had time to tune the height and damper :)
347g26w.jpg



My daily driver
2czxabn.jpg
 
Last edited:
1) love the Toyota Alphard

2) I wish we had the seat like you in the 2nd row instead of the two seater we have in the USA

3) which led light are you using ?

4) how hard was shift knob install? Where did you get that?

5) any link to the steering wheel? I love it

6) your 5 has power doors? We don’t get that option here




Last month, I bought this 2011 Mazda 5 2.0 in Hong Kong after my baby was born. It is relatively cheap compare with Honda and Toyota MPVs.

Even it is a baby carrier, parts are already on the way.
It is an used car and found that the original owner was a smoker, so I replaced the shift knob and steering wheel last week.
344upvs.jpg


Interior lights are crap, so I need brighter
2cgmqt5.jpg


LED headlights
24bs20x.jpg


2enrst5.jpg


Super bright trunk light and the TEIN Street Advance in the trunk
a32eyt.jpg


TEIN coilover installed. Haven't had time to tune the height and damper :)
347g26w.jpg



My daily driver
2czxabn.jpg
 
Last edited:
Just came back from the road trip.
Drove about 6000 km in two weeks with two kids in the back.
Went from Vancouver to San Francisco, LA, Las Vegas, Hoover Dam, back to San Fran and back to Vancouver.
Missed the Grand Canyon unfortunately.
Was a nice drive, with the longest stretch at about 16 hours with just fuel stops.
Car made it through ok but I found out that seats were not comfy for such a long drive. Had to buy one of those gel things to stick under the butt.

Did the oil change after the trip and will probably was the dead bugs of the car this weekend.
 
1) love the Toyota Alphard

2) I wish we had the seat like you in the 2nd row instead of the two seater we have in the USA

3) which led light are you using ?

4) how hard was shift knob install? Where did you get that?

5) any link to the steering wheel? I love it

6) your 5 has power doors? We don’t get that option here

2) it is not really comfortable sitting in the middle, there is a big gap between the seatback and cushion.
3)
2ylaic2.jpg

4) Shift knob is easy to remove, just turn it counter clockwise. The CF shift knob is from China, for USD7
5) Got the steering wheel from China...custom made...USD200 shipped + USD90core
6) Yes, dual sliding door, but no power trunk.

Link to shift knob
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?sp...XpLqm&id=554543176552&ns=1&abbucket=19#detail
Link to steering wheel
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?sp...xV9Ji&id=546651869222&ns=1&abbucket=19#detail
 
Last edited:
Back