Nice, where did you get a leather wheel for $55? I'd do that swap in a heartbeat if I knew where to get that deal...
What have you done to your Mazda5 today?
- Thread starter Rockin03mp5
- Start date
Nice, where did you get a leather wheel for $55? I'd do that swap in a heartbeat if I knew where to get that deal...
Swapped the vinyl factory wheel for a leather one, cost all $55
20140314_145011_Android by tuanies, on Flickr
Even kept the silver lower trim piece too. Brightens up the interior a bit compared to the all black of the stock wheel.
P1090663 by tuanies, on Flickr
Can you make a detailed DIY how to mount/dismount? with pics or youtube please?
Disconnect the battery. There's two 10mm bolts that are covered by rubber grommets on the backside. Gently remove airbag, disconnect horn. Disconnect airbag leads. There's a 20mm bolt holding the steering wheel in place.
If you need more directions, there's a instructions in the service manual. The service manual is available in the Mazda subreddit (reddit.com/r/mazda
If you need more directions, there's a instructions in the service manual. The service manual is available in the Mazda subreddit (reddit.com/r/mazda
Anyone have an idea why the stock rear shocks wont fit? I'm having a hard to trying to get the shock fit in between the trailing arm? It's like a really tight fit and no matter how much force, I cant get it to push through. Are there any tips and tricks? Because the Megan shocks I have slide through with no force. I need to go back to stock for warranty purposes.
Here's pictures from the user phunky.buddha. Hopefully its ok for me to use it as reference:
Here's pictures from the user phunky.buddha. Hopefully its ok for me to use it as reference:
Finally bit the bullet and lowered my 2012 MZ5 with a set of Megan Racing 06-10 lowering springs. I kept my old OEM front struts and I am running KYB G-A-J mono tube rear shocks. So far it feels very nice and firm and not annoyingly stiff. I will have to report as time runs it's course.
If I understand what you're saying, the lower shock mount won't slide down into the perch? If you had a smaller shock tightened down in the perch it may have actually pulled the perch tighter than what the stock shock will fit. It may need to be massaged to allow the stocker to fit. The stock shock mount is a fairly tight fit to begin with.
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phunky.buddha
Booga Booga?
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- DFW TX
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- No mo MZ5 want MX5
Very nice! I still can't make heads/tails of a cones course. Gotta have my curbs.
Ouch. So far so good from my BCs, but they are BCs and not KWs or something higher.
That looks GOOD! I wonder if it's that easy on the 1st gens.
Not ok. $20 per picture use, and I take PayPal. You pay the transfer fee.
Maybe the bushing on the lower shock mount is too wide? I inserted mine from the top, then wiggled everything else into place. If I remember correctly, you can't go in from the bottom.
I like it!
This is exactly my guess as well. The Megans were probably 0.5 or 1mm narrower and when installed the mount probably bent the tiny bit necessary to snug them up when you torqued the bolt (no big deal). But now that you need to put in a larger (stock) shock, you'll need to bend the mount out a bit to get it it.
Very nice! I still can't make heads/tails of a cones course. Gotta have my curbs.
Yeah, a fixed camera field of view and no peripheral vision makes it harder to make sense of it in video. It's easier to "see" the course in real life.
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- 2009 Mazda 5 Touring & 2012 MS3
I 3rd that. get a pry bar in there and show it who's boss.
In other news, I removed the rear sway and went for a test drive. I still had a clunk but MUCH lower volume. It seemed to have been coming from the shock mount but the shocks telegraph all sounds so i'm at a loss. Could the shock mounts be loose? If don't wanna over torque and sheer a stud again....maybe i should just sheer all the studs and replace them with grade 8 hardware so i can torque it down harder??
I also suspect the SPC camber arms. I may put the stock one back onto the passenger side and see if it shuts the hell up. I HAVE to find this source of this! If Phukny's got no noise i can't chalk it up to the pillow ball mounts, u know.
Whoa is me
Hmm... remind us, what was the timeline of when you installed the coilovers, camber arms, and sway bar in the rear? All at once? And when did you start hearing the sound?
Since you've been troubleshooting this for a while I will make the assumption that you've already double checked and there's no loose bolts you forgot to torque. Instead of checking torque each time, grab your wife's nail polish (or yours, I won't judge) and make a mark across the bolt/nut/part so you can tell visually if it has loosened without needing to put a wrench on it.
Have you taken a close inspection of everything you can see, to see if there's any evidence/witness marks anywhere from contact? Fenders, wheels, knuckles, control arms, subframes, sway bars...
Installing quality hardware is OK if you have suspicions about the stuff that came with aftermarket parts, but MOAR TORK is not a good idea. Torque specs exist for very real and valid reasons.
Have you checked the KISS stuff? Spare tire snug? no loose stuff sliding around under the rear seats?
Have you had a helper sit in the rear of the car and try to pinpoint the sound (or drive while you search for it)? If you can produce the sound at low speeds safely and you trust your driver, drive with the tailgate up and hang your head out the rear searching for the source (don't let the tailgate crack you in the skull)
Can you identify more specifically when does it make the sound? Two wheel bump (speed bump)? Roll (right or left)? High speed? low speed? High frequency inputs (bridge expansion joint)? Low frequency inputs (big dip in the road)?
Since you've been troubleshooting this for a while I will make the assumption that you've already double checked and there's no loose bolts you forgot to torque. Instead of checking torque each time, grab your wife's nail polish (or yours, I won't judge) and make a mark across the bolt/nut/part so you can tell visually if it has loosened without needing to put a wrench on it.
Have you taken a close inspection of everything you can see, to see if there's any evidence/witness marks anywhere from contact? Fenders, wheels, knuckles, control arms, subframes, sway bars...
Installing quality hardware is OK if you have suspicions about the stuff that came with aftermarket parts, but MOAR TORK is not a good idea. Torque specs exist for very real and valid reasons.
Have you checked the KISS stuff? Spare tire snug? no loose stuff sliding around under the rear seats?
Have you had a helper sit in the rear of the car and try to pinpoint the sound (or drive while you search for it)? If you can produce the sound at low speeds safely and you trust your driver, drive with the tailgate up and hang your head out the rear searching for the source (don't let the tailgate crack you in the skull)
Can you identify more specifically when does it make the sound? Two wheel bump (speed bump)? Roll (right or left)? High speed? low speed? High frequency inputs (bridge expansion joint)? Low frequency inputs (big dip in the road)?
Today's lunch project was a back-up camera. $25 eBay special that clipped onto the factory license plate light. I used an Audiovox wireless video transmitter for the purpose since I didn't want to run RCA for video.
P1090664 by tuanies, on Flickr
P1090665 by tuanies, on Flickr
P1090666 by tuanies, on Flickr
Also installed an XAV-602BT on Sunday
P1090669 by tuanies, on Flickr
P1090664 by tuanies, on Flickr
P1090665 by tuanies, on Flickr
P1090666 by tuanies, on Flickr
Also installed an XAV-602BT on Sunday
P1090669 by tuanies, on Flickr
Cool, how do you get away with getting the power? Off the light?
I think we got the same cheap camera: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ay-Mirror-Monitor-Camera-have-finally-arrived!
I notice that there's also a signal wire? For detecting if it's in reverse gear or something? Did you make user of that?
I tapped the reverse trigger in the passenger side kick panel. You can tap the same power wire for a trigger if you're running it from the back though. Otherwise its the blue/white wire in the smaller connector in the passenger side kick panel. Mine didn't have anything plugged into it, just a connector left wide open.
