mazda 5 Touring or GT are leather, so that is what the replacement must have been? Thought about the mazda speed three wheel, but, wanted fresh goodness. At $240, made sense. Now about those seats, need to find me some GT black leather seats with the lumbar supports. Have considered the mazda speed seats and have not totally ruled them out yet. I have a guy that is an upholstery guy that I hike with from boy scouts. He would put them together for me. And need the leather ebrake handle. Have to fancy up the road trip vehicle a bit! I do have a life, and many other cars that I drive...
What have you done to your Mazda5 today?
- Thread starter Rockin03mp5
- Start date
And today, the pollen filter got swapped. I suspect it was original, as it was that bad. I left that 4th PITA screw out, I figure 3 is good enough. Could not get it to go back in, got ticked off and knew to walk away before damage is done in the name of frustration.
The clock springs on the wheels are different. You can try different sets of buttons but it will do nothing, I've already tried.
I need to stock out my car and prepare to sell it next year
Why sell such a nice car? being 2014 it is practically brand new.
Don't really need it anymore. It's been sitting for weeks and I have no plans to drive it much in the next year or two.
Got any mods that you are taking off that I would want?
Let see, in the last month I've...
Replaced front struts with KYB GR-2s
Replaced front upper strut mounts with Moogs
Replaced rear KYB G-A-J shocks (not really needed but more on my OCD side of having new set all around)
Replaced rear upper shock mounts with Monroes
Replaced front pads and rotors with Centric parts
Replaced rear pads and rotors with Centric parts
Replaced front sway bar bushings with OEM (man these are a b**** and PITA to do)
Replaced front sway bar end links with OEM
Re-lubed rear sway bar bushings
Replaced lower transmission torque mount with OEM
Replaced upper right motor mount with OEM
Alignment
Tire rotation
Oil change
WHEEW!
Replaced front struts with KYB GR-2s
Replaced front upper strut mounts with Moogs
Replaced rear KYB G-A-J shocks (not really needed but more on my OCD side of having new set all around)
Replaced rear upper shock mounts with Monroes
Replaced front pads and rotors with Centric parts
Replaced rear pads and rotors with Centric parts
Replaced front sway bar bushings with OEM (man these are a b**** and PITA to do)
Replaced front sway bar end links with OEM
Re-lubed rear sway bar bushings
Replaced lower transmission torque mount with OEM
Replaced upper right motor mount with OEM
Alignment
Tire rotation
Oil change
WHEEW!
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Assuming you installed KYB 551105 in place of original OEM (as opposed to choosing KYB 343412 which is Excel-G)? Do you know what the difference is between the two KYB parts in terms of quality/feel? Also, how do they compare to new or lightly used OEM?
I will never go back to OEM or even the GR-2 for the rear shocks. In fact, I wish KYB made a G-A-J strut for the front. The big difference between the GR-2 (or OEM for that matter) and the G-A-J is that the GR-2 (or OEM) are twin-tube designs and the G-A-J are mono-tubes. The difference is a much firmer and controlled feel over the twin-tubes, not harsh at all, just nice and firm. I honestly believe that Mazda should have made the G-A-J the standard OEM shock at least for the rear. Like I mentioned on my previous post. I already had a set of the G-A-J shocks at the rear but my OCD made me replace them along with the new struts up front although they weren't needed. At over 40K miles on the old sets they still felt strong and they gave me fight to compress them to get them out. If you decide to buy them, you wont be disappointed.
Thanks for the information. I'll keep this in mind.
- :
- 2009 Mazda 5 Sport
Any particular reason why you swapped it? Vibration or anything?
I replaced it because from time to time I can hear and feel a clunk when shifting from D to R or visa-versa. So I felt that at $30 it was a cheap way to rule out a bad mount. If it continues I may also replace the left trans mount to really rule out any mount failure and then I can move on to taking it to the dealer for a possible trans issue since it is still under the powertrain warranty for another 15K miles.
- :
- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Interesting. Can you clarify exactly what you used and what you attempted to do/tried?The clock springs on the wheels are different. You can try different sets of buttons but it will do nothing, I've already tried.
I need to stock out my car and prepare to sell it next year
Was it a MS3 or Mz5 GT wheel with buttons?
Was the connection/harness at the clock different where you cannot physically connect them?
Did you try with your OEM Sport HU or an aftermarket HU trying to use learn function for steering wheel controls?
If you are open, I would like to know more but in a separate thread. considering you are leaving this group, not sure how much feedback I can get from you but it would be good to have.
What are you moving on to?
I had an MZ3 steering wheel with nav controls that I tried to swap using an aftermarket Alpine W957HD.
I swapped the controls over, they connect fine without any problems. I programmed the iDataLink Maestro for the MZ3 steering wheel.
All the buttons that were there previously worked. None of the new buttons worked.
The clockspring will not register any commands from the new wheel.
I checked with iDataLink and was told I'd have to replace the entire clockspring with one that matches and even that's not guaranteed to work.
My wife was being pass on the express way by a pickup truck and something bounced out of the back. She tried to avoid it but still got tagged. Cracked the passenger side bumper, fog light housing and chipped the headlight. It happen pretty fast and she did not get the license. The pickup driver probably didn't even noticed what happened. Here is the damage.
I don't have a garage or driveway and it was a warm day around 7C. So with a heat gun, hot glue, popsicle sticks, sandpaper, rubbing alcohol and J-B Weld Plastic Weld Epoxy Putty, I decided to try and epoxy the bumper back together. I use the heat gun to flatten out parts of the bumper that has been creased. The hot glue and popsicle sticks were used to hold the crack together while I sand, clean and apply the putty.
Access was limited, just via the fog light openning and I could not see what I was doing and cannot reach one end of the crack. Will see how it holds up for the winter and decide what to do next spring.
I don't have a garage or driveway and it was a warm day around 7C. So with a heat gun, hot glue, popsicle sticks, sandpaper, rubbing alcohol and J-B Weld Plastic Weld Epoxy Putty, I decided to try and epoxy the bumper back together. I use the heat gun to flatten out parts of the bumper that has been creased. The hot glue and popsicle sticks were used to hold the crack together while I sand, clean and apply the putty.
Access was limited, just via the fog light openning and I could not see what I was doing and cannot reach one end of the crack. Will see how it holds up for the winter and decide what to do next spring.
