2006+ Mazda5 Rear Shocks Replacement

I need to bring up my old question again since I'm going to be replacing my rear shocks soon...

What I meant was, if I lift the back of the car up on jack stands isn't the shock what keeps the spring compressed? If I remove the lower bolt that holds the shock in place, won't the lower arm drop down and release the spring? Obviously I don't want that... it looks like you would need to first put a floor jack under the lower arm (where the spring sits) to keep it compressed while you take the shock out?
 
... it looks like you would need to first put a floor jack under the lower arm (where the spring sits) to keep it compressed while you take the shock out?

what you describe is exactly how the shop manual states to remove the rear strut.
 
I need to bring up my old question again since I'm going to be replacing my rear shocks soon...

What I meant was, if I lift the back of the car up on jack stands isn't the shock what keeps the spring compressed? If I remove the lower bolt that holds the shock in place, won't the lower arm drop down and release the spring? Obviously I don't want that... it looks like you would need to first put a floor jack under the lower arm (where the spring sits) to keep it compressed while you take the shock out?

You do not need to worry about the spring unloading on you when you remove the shock as they are completely independant of each other, unlike coil overs which you are probably thinking of.
I did have to lift the weight of the car off the wheels a little to have enough room to pull the shocks out though, as you cannot slide them all the way out the bottom due to the shock length and the suspension arm not being high enough off the ground to slide them out the bottom. You have to actually push the shock up and slide it out rather than just let it drop out the bottom of the lower mounting bracket.
Having the car on a lift would certainly be the easiest way to replace them.
Installation of the KYB shocks was easier as they compress farther making the overall length shorter than what the oe shocks are.
 
You don't need to worry about the spring falling out. It is held on by the rear lower arm. Here is a picture of the rear suspension.

2ue1kas.jpg
 
I need to bring up my old question again since I'm going to be replacing my rear shocks soon...

What I meant was, if I lift the back of the car up on jack stands isn't the shock what keeps the spring compressed? If I remove the lower bolt that holds the shock in place, won't the lower arm drop down and release the spring? Obviously I don't want that... it looks like you would need to first put a floor jack under the lower arm (where the spring sits) to keep it compressed while you take the shock out?

Here you go- scrolllllllll down to post #3. :D

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...R-Type-Coilovers-Mazda-5-(Review-and-Install)

mz5_susp_inst_800_089.jpg


The bolt holding the lower control arm and the trailing arm together is separate from the bolt that holds the shock to the rear suspension. You can remove the shock without fear of having the spring pop loose- but it is easier to just break the lower control arm free and have more room to play around.
 
Here you go- scrolllllllll down to post #3. :D

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...R-Type-Coilovers-Mazda-5-(Review-and-Install)

mz5_susp_inst_800_089.jpg


The bolt holding the lower control arm and the trailing arm together is separate from the bolt that holds the shock to the rear suspension. You can remove the shock without fear of having the spring pop loose- but it is easier to just break the lower control arm free and have more room to play around.

easier?
I didnt even remove the wheels to swap the shocks. The above is a guide for a coilover conversion, but I see what you are saying.
 
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I guess you could do the rear shocks without even removing the wheels- never had a reason to do it that way though since I was tearing apart the entire rear assembly.
 
I guess you could do the rear shocks without even removing the wheels- never had a reason to do it that way though since I was tearing apart the entire rear assembly.

On a lift, sure, but changing out shocks without removing tires while it's on jacks sounds like a dumb idea to me. Maybe I'm way off, but just off the cuff, sounds dumb.
 
On a lift, sure, but changing out shocks without removing tires while it's on jacks sounds like a dumb idea to me. Maybe I'm way off, but just off the cuff, sounds dumb.

Agree- but I've never tried it on any car. Jack stands and wheels off is too easy, and makes moving around in the wheel well a lot easier.
 
i did it with the car on ramps, wheels on. It was no issue at all. Just had to take some of the weight off the wheels with a jack to have enough room to slide the OE shocks out.
I think the first side took 30 minutes, then 15 minutes for the other.
 
Just throwing this out there but Bilstein offers a twintubed replacement (Bilstein 19-138411) for MS3 and Mz3 rear (no front option for some reason) that goes for ~$73 shipped. Technically it is not available for the Mz5 but I would choose this before GR2s. I believe lifetime warranty applies too.

Hi, has anyone actually used the Bilstein 19-138411 on the Mz5? Any fitment problem? Just want to make sure the Bilstein fits. Thanks.
 
if it fits the Speed3 and the Mazda3, it will fit the Mazda5. all three vehicles share the exact same mechanical fit.
 
I have been searching the web and found the following, (since I spent the time, I am sharing my result):

Bilstein (MZ3)
B6 (HD) 35-110736 (L)
B6 (HD) 35-110743 (R)
24-110808
B8 (SP) 35-110767 (L)
B8 (SP) 35-110774 (R)
24-110815

Monroe (MZ3,MZ5)
72264 (L)
72263 (R)
5607

KYB (MZ3,MZ5)
334701 (L)
334700 (R)
343412

Sachs Super Touring (MZ5)
313411 32-Q31-A (L)
313415 32-Q32-A (R)
313575 27-K28-A

Koni yellow (MZ3,MZ5)
8741 1487LSport
8741 1487RSport
8040 1350Sport

Monroe, Kyb and Koni all have the same front and rear shocks for both MZ3 & MZ5. The Bilstein are MZ3s and Sachs Super Touring have different part number for the rear (the front is the same).

MZ3 5drs weights 2983 lb and the weight distribution is 60/40 = 1789.8/1193.2
MZ5 sport weights 3475 lb and the weight distribution is 57/43 = 1980.75/1494.25

So that is about 300lb of extra weight on the back compared with MZ3 5 doors.
From my first post above, Bilstein 19-138411 is a much shorter shock than 24-110808, also note Bilstein B8 is about 1 inch shorter than B6 (for lowered spring?).

**all the above information was search from the web as of 07/24/12, therefore it can be outdated or inaccurate.
 
Might want to double check your sources and always use the suppliers catalog as the central source of the truth. Also, where did you find the weight distribution? Ive seen a MT or C/D review of a 2012 with F/R weight distribution but have not seen anything for 06-10 (prob close to 2012 but ya never know). Interested to see if you can point me to that.


Koni offers the Sports (Yellows) and FSDs for Mz3, Mz5, and MS3; all have unique part numbers. They also offer the Street for Mz3 and MS3; both have unique part numbers.
http://www.koni-na.com/cat_search.c...8&mak_id=25&mod_id=391&submit.x=28&submit.y=5
http://www.koni-na.com/cat_search.c...8&mak_id=25&mod_id=390&submit.x=34&submit.y=7


Bilstein offer the B8 (Sport) and B6 (Heavy Duty) for Mz3 and MS3; both have the same part numbers.
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/search/mmid=71171/drivetype=FWD

The 19-138411 is meant to be a factory replacement (but most likely much better). Theres no reason to believe it does not fit a Mz5 if it fits a Mz3/MS3 but I cannot say it will work just as well. How do you know this shock is much shorter and what do you mean shorter? The body, the shaft, or both? All shocks come in different sizes for body and shaft. One pointer that Ive learned, shocks/struts, no matter the different shape/size, does not alter the cars height. The reason why people claim their new shock with OEM springs raised their car is b/c they are comparing it to their old/beat up shocks that are not holding up properly.

As you stated, the only difference between the Sport and HD is that the Sports shaft is 1 shorter to accommodate lower springs (to keep compression in the optimal range). Internals and all else are identical. I have not spoken to Bilstein directly but many have call and have reported that they will confirm this. Btw, both B6 and B8 are inverted! for the front and have internal bump stops so you dont need to reuse the old ones, rears are normal non-inverted and need bump stops get better ones.

Dont know much and dont care for KBY/Monroe/SST so I have no clue.
 
Spec for 08 MZ3 5dr s:
http://autos.yahoo.com/mazda/mazda3/2008/s-sport-5-door/specifications.html

Spec for 08 MZ5:
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/minivans-vans/112_0809_2008_mazda5_first_look/viewall.html

Bilstein 19-138411:
# Collapsed Length: 13.44 in / 341.5 mm
# Extended Length: 18.35 in / 466 mm
http://www.ajusa.com/Bilstein-19-138411-Twintube-Shock-Absorber-ab00f2.html

Bilstein 24-110808:
# Collapsed Length: 18.37 in / 466.5 mm
# Extended Length: 27.8 in / 706 mm
http://www.ajusa.com/Bilstein-24-110808-Monotube-Shock-Absorber-ab03fd.html

Again, didn't have access to the physical items / vehicle, so don't know if they are accurate.

I wanted to buy the Bilstein, but didn't want to have premature failure due to the extra weight for the Mz5. I almost brought KYB, saw another post that said it is worst than OEM, so ended up gambling with the Monroe (didn't really like Monroe either). If the Monroe fail in another 3 years will probably change to Koni FSD on all 4. Also brought some Dorman shock mount, just in case it needs it, but the Dormans are made in china, the original looks fine, so just reused the original.

BTW, my it's wife's MZ5 we got it new in July 08, and it has less than 19k. I have been driving 25 years with many different makes and models, never seen a shock failure that drips oil all over the place like the MZ5.
 
I've never had any problems with kyb shocks on multiple cars. I would say they are far better than the mz5 oem rears.
 
OEM on mine is made of Poland and start leaking @50k km . Fomoco in house ?

I will change the front strut with KYB .

6

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Great thread everyone, we just purchased a 2008 Mazda 5 in June and I expected to do some work on it. It seems the first thing I will need to do is replace the rear shocks and stabilizer links.
The car is just being used as a family vechile, I have 2 boys and we haul baseball and other gear around most of the summer. What shocks would best suit my usage? Also where is the best place to get the parts?

Thanks for the help.
 
Thank you very much for the quick reply!
I'm also going to replace the "Stabilizer Bar Link - Rear" but I have seen what seems to be the same part (picture looks identical) labeled as a "Sway Bar Link". Is there a difference? How many do I need?
What else should I be looking at replacing while I'm under there?
I found the parts at Parts Geek are they a good supplier?
 
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