2006+ Mazda5 Rear Shocks Replacement

mazda 3 shocks

Just replaced the rear shocks on my 07 mazda 3 (84500 miles) last night. This thread helped me out alot. It was very easy to do and only took 2 hours, i had an impact so it went smooth. Also, I put the jack in the middle of the rear end on that plate thing under the axle so it lifted both tires up, highly recommended. Tested them out today with a 2 hour drive and they feel great, exactly like it felt when I bought the car brand new. Thanks for posting!
 
Thanks so much for this post.

FYI - I didn't see the photos in the IE or Firefox browsers, but when I cut and pasted the instructions into MS Word, the photos appeared. Not sure what's going on, but give it a shot if you cant see them.
 
Thanks for the comments msimbula. I uploaded the pics to a free image hosting site and thought they were lost for good. Looks like the problem is just scrambled links. I have updated the links to all the original images.

I think Mazda underspec'd the 5. They used a lot of parts from the '04-'05 Mazda3i. While the suspension may be sufficient for the sedan, the setup is not up to the task of suspending a heavier vehicle that can hold up to 6 adults.
 
Hey a10thunder; do you remember seeing the thread about someone using a different rear setup on the 06 (and other year's also) that would allow the rear tires to ACTUALLY be vertical and not the slight lean in (camber)? I thought there was one, but I haven't been able to find it yet.
Thanks in advance.
 
Franzy: After reading about the problem on these forums, I replaced the cams on mine with some aftermarket adjustable ones, I was having the tire wear problem coupled with a strange vibration noise at highway speed. The cams were a $1200 fix installed, but it took another shot in the dark (rear bearings) to fix the vibration. That was 2 years ago, no problems since till now: I've got a blown rear shock, so I'm glad to have this thread to give me the encouragement to change them myself since I'm having trouble scraping together the cash to drop the several hundred bux my mechanic would charge me to do it.
 
Franzy: After reading about the problem on these forums, I replaced the cams on mine with some aftermarket adjustable ones, I was having the tire wear problem coupled with a strange vibration noise at highway speed. The cams were a $1200 fix installed, but it took another shot in the dark (rear bearings) to fix the vibration. That was 2 years ago, no problems since till now: I've got a blown rear shock, so I'm glad to have this thread to give me the encouragement to change them myself since I'm having trouble scraping together the cash to drop the several hundred bux my mechanic would charge me to do it.

Cams? or camber links? SPC camber links can be had on ebay for 100 bucks I got mine included with progress lowering springs for 100 canadian. Installation is $40/corner = $80. I had my alignment guy to install it.

For rear shocks why not try monroe oes these are the same as the sensa trac only for JDM cars. it way cheaper than the GR2 for almost half the price. If I buy anything more expensive than these I go for Konis. And also make sure you change both rear shocks at the same time, our car have RSB so even if one shock blows you might not easily notice it but the load is being transferred to the good shock and even if you replace the bad one eventually the old one will break soon enough. So save yourself the trouble and at least replace both and enjoy the ride of 2 brand new shocks.

At first I did not install it as the alignment is still ok within specs when I went for alignment. But after 2 years the spring settled and was lower than before, and I am experiencing wear at the rears. When I got an alignment the camber is off so I installed the kit (good thing I didnt sell it). Now everything is ok and setup at the middle of the alignment spec range. Rear toe ins are adjusted at mid of specs, no more noticeable rubbere powder on the rear panel only the noise because of the initial abnormal wear. i can live with that.
 
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Removing/Installing 2008 Mazda 5 Shocks?

I am unable to get the car high enough off of the grounds to remove the shocks. Is there a shock compression tool?

I had a blown rear shock so I went ahead and replaced it myself. Someone else posted about doing this and said it was really easy. As far as difficulty goes, it's on the level of brake pad replacement. It depends on whether you have the right tools or not. The replacement shocks I got were KYB GR-2's (Part No. 343412). You can find them online for $35 to $50 per shock.

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible if you break something or hurt yourself while performing this procedure.

Stock shock and KYB GR-2 (silver)
pic01.jpg


Tools needed:

- 12mm deep socket (extension also recommended)
- 17mm socket
- 13mm wrench
- Floor jack
- Torque wrench (10 - 80 ft/lb torque range)
- Vice or pipe pliers

Step 1
Jack up the rear of the car as high as you can and place jack stands at the rear jack points.

Step 2

Remove the 2 rear wheels. You'll need access to the wheel well.

Step 3
Now you can see that the shock is held up top by 2 nuts (12mm) and a 17mm bolt at the bottom. Unscrew the two 12mm nuts up top with a 12mm deep socket. It's really hard to get a wrench in there because of the shape of the bracket. Your job will be a lot easier if you also have an extension so you don't have to reach all the way in there. As you start to loosen the nuts, there will be a lot of crap falling down. Make sure you protect your eyes and try not to breath in the stuff.

Notice all the shock oil that has leaked out from the blown shock.
pic02.jpg


Step 4
Uncrew the 17mm bolt at the bottom. A long socket wrench or a cheater bar will help out a lot here. I used a mallet to loosen the bolt.

This is a bad picture, but you can see the bolt. It's behind the disc brake. With the wheel off, you can reach the bolt without getting under the car.
pic021.jpg


Step 5
Take out the shock. It takes a little wiggling, but the shock can be taken out pretty easily.

Step 6
Uncrew the 13mm screw holding the dust cover/bump stop to the shock body. This step is really easy if you have a vice. To uncrew the nut, you have to hold the rod that the nut is screwed onto stationary. Otherwise, if you try to uncrew the nut, the rod and the shock body will spin with the nut. The tip of the rod has two flat faces, so if you put the whole thing in a vice, you can easily uncrew the nut.
pic03.jpg


If you don't have a vice like me, you'll have use something like pipe pliers to hold on to the rod and unscrew the nut... big PITA. This is the shock with the dust cover/bump stop off.
pic04.jpg


Step 7
Now you are ready to install the new shock. Place the old dust cover/bump stop over the new shock. My KYB's came with 12mm nuts instead of the stock 13mm. Tighten the new nut over the dust cover/bump stop.

Step 8
Place the new shock in the original rear shock location. Make sure the top and bottom mount locations are correct and thread through bottom bolt. Don't tighten this bolt just yet but make sure the bolt thread has caught and is holding the bottom of the shock in place. The new shock's rest position may not be long enough to reach to top mount location. In this case, you'll need to put the floor jack under the suspension member and raise the shock. Once the top bracket clears enough thread for the two nuts to catch, install the two 12mm nuts.

Step 9
Tighten bottom 17mm bolt (56.35-74.49 ft/lb torque from Mazda Service Manual)
Tighten top 2-12mm bolts (15.7-21.2 ft/lb torque from Mazda Service Manual)

Step 10
Put rear wheels back and lower car. Go for a test ride and enjoy your new shocks.
 
I am unable to get the car high enough off of the grounds to remove the shocks. Is there a shock compression tool?

You should be able to slid it out, it might take some wiggling but it can be done. You do not need a compressor to shorten the shock, it can be done by hand and does not take much pressure.
 
Great guide. First shock took me 3-hours due to zooming back and forth to the hardware store to get the right tools. Second one took just 25-mins! My own fault for not paying enough attention to the list of tools and getting a bit unlucky on the bottom bolt that was on so tight I was forced to buy a longer wrench to get the leverage I needed.

One tip: To grip on to the central rod when getting the dust cover off, use mole grips if you have them, rather than pliers. I did this on the second one and it was MUCH easier since you're not use a bunch of strength to hold that and undo the nut.
 
Just replaced my rear shock on a 2009 Mazda5 with KYB shocks. Just follow the pics in the thread it took me 2hours very simple process 4 bolts on each side. Only thing I want to add since I had to figure this out you need to remove the dust cover from the rubber boot. Just pull apart. I used a vise to remove the nut from the shock. Have fun!
 
Just a couple of questions, I need to replace the rear shocks on my 06 Mazda 5. Would it not be easier to access the top nut by removing the side cup holder. Also, will the car need an alignment after I remove the shock? Thanks
 
Just a couple of questions, I need to replace the rear shocks on my 06 Mazda 5. Would it not be easier to access the top nut by removing the side cup holder. Also, will the car need an alignment after I remove the shock? Thanks

I'm not sure what a "side cup holder" is. The easiest way to remove the top nut is with something that can hold the flat faces of the rod stationary (like a vice).

IMO, you do not need an alignment after replacing just the shocks. The suspension geometry stays the same with the stock springs.
 
Sorry, bad typing on my part. If you lift out the interior rear (drink)cup holder in the side panel just above the wheel well, is that not the nut for the top of the shock? If that is the case, I would think you could save time by undoing the nut there and not have to remove the rusted nuts underneath that are holding the shock mount.
 
Sorry, bad typing on my part. If you lift out the interior rear (drink)cup holder in the side panel just above the wheel well, is that not the nut for the top of the shock? If that is the case, I would think you could save time by undoing the nut there and not have to remove the rusted nuts underneath that are holding the shock mount.

I've heard that before. Can't confirm it though.
 
I don't think accessing the shock from the inside will make the process that much easier. You may be able to stay cleaner though.
 
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Guess we are spoiled here in AZ, b/c all my bolts were clean and rust free. I would recommend remaining in the wheel well unless you have really bad rust. But then, wouldn't it be better to break those bolts free every once in awhile rather than letting them fester in their rust until they become one piece? I had no probs at all with an 8" extension, and I bet a decent breaker bar would make easy work of the rust.
 
Guess we are spoiled here in AZ, b/c all my bolts were clean and rust free. I would recommend remaining in the wheel well unless you have really bad rust. But then, wouldn't it be better to break those bolts free every once in awhile rather than letting them fester in their rust until they become one piece? I had no probs at all with an 8" extension, and I bet a decent breaker bar would make easy work of the rust.

Spoiled in southern AZ. I lived in Flagstaff for 8 years and everything I owned turned to rust or dust.
 
do you think top shock mount need replacement too? I mean its got rubber in it and if its not that expensive, might be worth replacing them.
 
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