How to make Custom Sway Bar End links

Indeed those look good. Dimensions of the parts regardless of sourcing would help.

Typically any larger fastener supply house would not be able to provide individual items as wholesale costs are prohibitive to do so (thus why we have McMaster, Summit, Motion and other parts suppliers).
 
The dimensions on the joints change by manufacturer - the ones I got were THK. The threaded hex rod can be ordered shorter or longer.

Misumi is where I got mine. McMaster doesn't have evrything, especially in the metric sizes we need.

I was going to install these today, but the OE end links will have to be cut off with a zizz wheel/grinder. So a 1 hour job is now all day. Anyone else HATE it when the OEM puts an allen wrench socket in the end to hold the ball stud? They NEVER work past the factory assembly line, and you can't use the allen wrench while hammering on the nut with an impact wrench. ARRRGGGHHHH!
 
The dimensions on the joints change by manufacturer - the ones I got were THK. The threaded hex rod can be ordered shorter or longer.

Misumi is where I got mine. McMaster doesn't have evrything, especially in the metric sizes we need.

http://www.misumi-ec.com/usa/eusaen/ItemDetail/10300372250.html

Yes? If so, thanks. I can't say I was aware of Misumi

Nice that they have load ratings - and well rated for the application as well; the McMaster ball joint ends are non rated or if they are, relatively low values (typically I've seen only the spherical rod ends with listed ratings)
 
Aren't the balls in the first post rated to 3900 lbs?
 
yes, and that's what i just got, gonna try to put it togethter tonight
 
see all this hex rod business is great but, still happy with with my stainless rods i got for free from a friend lol. they aren't all super shiney but they will take like 20x the weight of my car in stress before they break.
 
Aren't the balls in the first post rated to 3900 lbs?

You're referencing the material Strength of Yielding Point (tensile*) and you're looking at the M6 size. The M10 (which I assume MP3me bought as that's stock size) is rated at 11300 N (Pk)

As such, they're rated in metric units (Newtons) and you'd have to convert to ANSI standard (lbf)

Thus, given 11300 N (Pk), which kgf = N0.101972 = 11300 x .101972 = 1152.28 kgf

Thus 1 kgf = 2.2 lbf, so 1152.28 kgf x 2.2. = 2535.02 lbf (comparable to 2036 lbf of the ones I purchased)

Now moving on to the forces themselves, the Misumi M10 bearing is specing out static radial (which isn't the same as the axial) load and would be 4105.39 lbf (as my axial pull out is "only" 1302 lbf)

(someone can double check my math)

That said, we end up comparing apple forces to orange forces. Axial forces run parallel or "through" the ball/stud - trying to pull the ball out of its bearing races - while radial load is orthogonal (90o) to the stud - forcing loads "through" the bearing itself...

In addition, we end up talking about the difference between static and dynamic loads (and not even taking into account any degrees of misalignment at any given point in the linkage cycle)

If just going off static loads, one would need to to convert axial to radial which I know can be determined, I just don't have the wherewithal/machinery handbook to take up at the moment....

So which are better? Not sure; higher numbers are arguably better, but I there's also a cost/benefit that one must evaluate as well as each person's suspension setups and driving demands.

see all this hex rod business is great but, still happy with with my stainless rods i got for free from a friend lol. they aren't all super shiney but they will take like 20x the weight of my car in stress before they break.

Generically speaking, stainless' tensile* rating isn't all that strong (it's actually pretty brittle). Not all stainless is the same and yield strength generally increases in higher 300 or 400 series (along with them being tempered or not, etc, etc)

Do you know what stainless alloy the rods are?Not saying that you're going to shear them, just saying that promoting carbon steel to 'stainless' in and of itself isn't a characteristic that improves strength.
 
Last edited:
Keep things in perspective: the factory end links are connected by a rod that is less than 1/4" in diameter, and probably dumb low carbon steel (A36 variety). So a 10mm or 3/8" diameter rod of any stainless or carbon steel is going to be much stronger, both in bending and tensile (I don't see shear failure in these, unless the threads fail). We could also conclude that if the factory rod is wimpy, the swivel balls and rod ends were designed to match those wimpy loads.

IMO, I think any design I've seen in this thread is going to be a lot stronger than OE.
 
Keep things in perspective: the factory end links are connected by a rod that is less than 1/4" in diameter, and probably dumb low carbon steel (A36 variety). So a 10mm or 3/8" diameter rod of any stainless or carbon steel is going to be much stronger, both in bending and tensile (I don't see shear failure in these, unless the threads fail). We could also conclude that if the factory rod is wimpy, the swivel balls and rod ends were designed to match those wimpy loads.

IMO, I think any design I've seen in this thread is going to be a lot stronger than OE.

Correct - I meant tensile (will need to edit my post)

And I agree with you 110%.
 
Update!

This morning I cut the nuts off the ball studs with a cutoff wheel on my grinder. One of the end links was BENT, and the ball/socket had about 1/8" gap - I could move the ball left-right or up-down in the socket. I bolted in the new assemblies and Voila! No clunk! And SO nice and easy to adjust each side's length. SWEET!

So for everyone on the Clunk-kit GI waiting list (that has now been locked and rendered useless to us all) if you haven't replaced your endlinks, do that before you spend $200+ on the clunk kit. Looks like you have the time............
 
Good to hear. I got my ball joints in yesterday, but I haven't decided on the linkage though. I may go with your options from Misumi.
 
heh. my clunk came back after a few weeks with these links. no free play in the balls or anything.
 
Update!

This morning I cut the nuts off the ball studs with a cutoff wheel on my grinder. One of the end links was BENT, and the ball/socket had about 1/8" gap - I could move the ball left-right or up-down in the socket. I bolted in the new assemblies and Voila! No clunk! And SO nice and easy to adjust each side's length. SWEET!

So for everyone on the Clunk-kit GI waiting list (that has now been locked and rendered useless to us all) if you haven't replaced your endlinks, do that before you spend $200+ on the clunk kit. Looks like you have the time............

Would you mind posting the part numbers for the hex rods you purchased? Thanks in advance.

D
 
so i read all 16 pages and i got two questions. I would like to try this out

1. So the rod ends are the ones that have to have the right and left thread right?
2. has anyone experience any diffulculties with these custom end links?

Thanks
 
so i read all 16 pages and i got two questions. I would like to try this out

1. So the rod ends are the ones that have to have the right and left thread right?
2. has anyone experience any diffulculties with these custom end links?

Thanks

Per #1, no you don't, but it's a usability feature. You can tighten or losen (i.e. adjust preload on the swaybar) by turning the hex portion of the linkage in one direction, thus threading the rod in or out of each side simultaneously.

Otherwise you have to remove the link on one side and adjust the rod end/ball joint respectively, and reinstall.
 

Attachments

  • links.jpg
    links.jpg
    27 KB · Views: 270
those look pretty nice.

its time to get some front ones for me now so ill be getting a set of LH thread balls and rod/nuts, and im gonna try out some 6" lengths of the hex rod to adjust my rods.
I wanted to use a 12" section for the front link but im not lowered, so my swaybar wouldnt sit level at stock right height.
center to center would be about 14" if i did that. so ill just have to have a 6" section connected to stainless threaded rod on both sides.

of course i could just get lowering springs at the same time and do the 12" section heh.
 
Back