How to make Custom Sway Bar End links

HKPRO5

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Supercharged Protege5
Well as I was looking for end links because the Ksports coilovers and the stock end links are way off, I decided to make my own. (Too cheap to pay for the AWR ones) Anyways I went looking around and found McMaster.com. With that and some parts from a local hardware store I completed my own set of sway bar end links. Oh BTW if you decide to do this and something gets messed up..You are at your own risk. lol (gotta do that to save my butt)

Parts from Mcmaster
$5.39 eachQTY 4 2458K341 Carbon-fiber Race Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Female

Parts from Local Hardware Store
$0.12 each Qty 16 3/8 Rubber O-ring
$0.30 each Qty 8 3/8-24 (fine thread) nuts grade 8
$0.30 each Qty 4 3/8 lock washers
$2.00 Foot Qty 1 (36In) 3/8-24 (fine thread) Threaded rod Grade 8

This is what it looks like assembled.
IMG_1551.jpg


I ended up using two O-rings on the inner side because the ball joint was hitting the bracket.
IMG_1546.jpg


This is what it looks like installed.
IMG_1548.jpg

Picture on the other side
IMG_1553.jpg


Close view of the upper
IMG_1549.jpg


Close view of the lower
IMG_1550.jpg


As for driving impressions. I did not hear any noises or anything like that. So far its been great. Feels good too.

So if there is any questions just let me know.

Thanks for looking!
 
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...I see what you did there.... very interesting... here i come "how to sticky".... i mean you


how much does it all cost tho!!!!!
 
Very interesting. A couple of questions (could not determine answers from the pictures):

1. How much clearance is there between the threaded rod and everything else, especially the hoses which look like brake lines and the drive shaft? Any chance it might rub? Because if it did, it would almost certainly saw through whatever touched it.

2. How much does the end link move?

3. Please keep an eye on the rubber washers and let us know how long they hold up. Those things can last many years when employed in a constantly compressed state between two plates, but I suspect they are not going to be long for the world if they are flexed constantly, especially in a hot, gritty, and oily environment. Heck, in LA the air alone will destroy a little piece of rubber like that in just a couple of years. Did you consider using metal spacers (for instance, brass washers) instead?
 
1. The endlinks are no where near anything in that area. I did everything to try to see if there was any rubbing. donuts, s turns u turns going up ramps and even a slew of speed bumps. After all that It seemed fine. There was no damage to any of the surrounding pieces... (I wanted to make sure it worked before I made a how to...lol)

2. The endlink is a little tight but still moves. The specs on the bearing say 12 degrees of movement.

3. When I was looking at the AWR endlinks I seen a rubber O-ring that was in the same place. If anything I would try and get a urethane oring. (if they make it) If not I would just replace the rubber ones... The reason why i didnt want to use metal washers is because of rubbing.
 
Those type ball end links aren't good for street use because they pick up too much crud and will wear quickly. In a race applications they get cleaned after each race and they still don't last too long. You should be able to find metal spacers to prevant binding, I don't think the O rinds will survive. My son used to own a Legends race car and it had several ball end links in the suspension.

Clifton
 
This is getting moved to How-To. Please keep us updated on how the endlinks are as time progresses. They look really good.
 
Cool! Thanks! Im actually going to do more "testing" right now. I chose the ends because they are non lubricating and were made for high impact (3900lbs or something like that)
 
Out of curiousity any idea how long each ball end is? I need a super short endlink for my rx7 and was wondering if these will work.
 
Would it not be better to get the Self-lubing Bronze ones??

I have no clue about this stuff so just a simple question.
 
cool thanks for the info...i might be able to butt these up against eachother and create an rx7 end link
 
You could get one male and one femaleand put it together like that if you need it really small.


To judman13 it has a carbon race so you don't have to lube the bearing. Also the load for that ball end max is like 3900 lb's
 
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