How to make Custom Sway Bar End links

I've been playing all day with the various component sites because I want to make a set that doesn't look like it was made by a plumber and finally stumbled upon these. Just kind of pricey, especially since shipping won't be cheap.
http://shop.k-sport-germany.com/index.php?a=48402&lang=eng

Here's where I'm at with the do it yourself options.

From MPC, there is a chrome plated option if you don't mind going SAE. However, the rectangular ball joints don't look as strong for an endlink application, but tough to say if it will handle our cars as they don't list any specs. As none of the endlinks I've seen ever use this kind of ball joint, I am leaning against this one, but it would look pretty.
http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=32
There is a left hand thread version too, so you can get a matching LH/RH chrome rod, part# TRC375. What I don't like about that is they have 2.75" threads, meaning 2" of thread will be showing even when you go as short as possible.

I really don't want to put any zinc plated crap on the car, but in AZ, I am sure it will last literally forever. And in that case, the best options is this.
http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=2880
Along with the left hand version, and then a hex tube from Misumi, part# LBMF10 (and you can specify any length you want). That should look pretty professional until the clear zinc gives way to the rust. With Misumi you have the option of black oxide, nickel plating, or stainless. None of them are prone to corrosion, and the cheapest is black, so that's the economical choice. Shiny is always nice though.

I really would like to use these. http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=151
However, there is no left hand equivalent, meaning you have to find a RH/RH threaded stud long enough and you won't be able to adjust length without taking them off the car. I've found one on Amazon long enough for the rear, but no luck on the front.
Here's the Amazon link. https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Considering that all the do it yourself options cost less together than the AWR order that I just canceled, I am tempted to just order then all and see which ones I like the best.
 
Yeah your rear set is the right way to go, just not all that nice to look at and probably a little heavier than they need to be. Neither gripes are a big deal, as we don't see them unless we are under the car, and we can make up the weight by skipping breakfast.

I went with the male zinc ball joint, hex tube option. I'll post pics when they get here, but shouldn't be for a week or two.
 
As promised here is a pic of my attempt at these.

I'll install them this weekend hopefully as long as my control arm bushings get here, and if they turn out to work alright I'll post up the part numbers.

SAedh.jpg
 
Thanks, I am actually a little worried that since I followed MP3me's idea of using a left hand/right hand setup so that you can adjust them without taking them off the car. There is nothing preventing these endlinks from lengthening on their own. The vibrations of driving and the pull of the sway bar could cause the rod to rotate.
However, the same could be said for shortening, and I guess this way they will always tend to rotate towards a perfectly level (no pre-load) sway bar.
While a reverse threaded nut (like on a tie rod) would stop them from shortening, I can't think of a way to stop them from lengthening.
I guess I'll just have to try them out and keep an eye on them. Trial by fire.
 
Use 'jam nuts' to prevent the center section from rotating. Basically it's just a nut that you tighten against the center section to prevent it from moving. I would suggest using two per endlink but it might not be to easy to find left handed nuts. When looking at your picture it looks like you might have to shorten the center section in order to have room for jam nuts.

If you check out AWR's or any other adjustable endlink, you'll see they use nuts to prevent rotation.
 
An update on these. The left hand ball joints were defective and easily pop out of their socket. They are sending me new ones, but they are from the same batch and probably have the same issue. Midwest Control wasn't sure when they would get a new batch.

I put them on the car anyway this past weekend, tired of waiting and trying to figure out if it really was my sway bar making all that racket underneath the car, I put on the custom endlinks. It immediately silenced the front end, but after a few miles the sway bar started making noise again. The too-short stock end-links apparently crushed my sway bar bushings prematurely. The longer custom links silenced it for a while until the bushings reformed. So I have new bushings coming again.

I am hoping the new ball joints and bushings get here at the same time.

As for the lock nuts, I just tefloned the threads and tightened it down as far as it would go. Ruins the adjustability of these custom endlinks, but that appears to be holding just fine. Also, even as short as they go, they just barely hit the control arm when the wheel is off the ground and strut is fully extended. Since I am not doing a lot of hill hopping, I'll just live with it for now, but at some point I'll order shorter rods so I can put on lock nuts and not worry about hitting the control arm.
 
i was wondering if there is a way to make these adjustable? i need to do them for the rear and i was thinking of going with 2 shorter threaded rods with the mcmaster ends, and have them connected by something like this clicky heree

any thoughts?
 
these could be adjustable as-is. there is some adjustment just depending on how much you need with this setup. you would also probably have to use a vice grip to adjust them on the car, vs a wrench with the piece you posted. you could also get male vs female ball joint ends and use the piece you are thinking of as well.
 
well i want to be able to adjust them a lot for the track. if i get a sleeve like that, would i have to get a RH threaded joint and a LH threaded one?
 
Ok, this thread has been really informative . . . and really confusing.
Would anyone be able to put together a summary post (or edit an existing post) to arrive at a definitive "how-to" for this. I need end links badly, and was going to wait for AAC (they make nice stuff) but if I can pull this off on my own and at a lower price . . .
 
ive ordered the parts for this. hope all comes out well.
quick question for those who have done this, how long are the endlinks you made compared to stock height?
reason im asking is because i am dropped on coils and i know i dont need to make em as long as stock.
 
Ok, so I need to make new front and rear endlinks for the MSP since getting coilovers. I'm looking at the Lubrication free end links part number 6072K333. I cant tell what the thread size is that I would need for the rod. Or am I just missing it?

Would it be cheaper to just buy the rods and nuts for everything else from Home depot or lowes? I just need to buy these linkages from mcmaster-carr?
 
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