Rodneooo, Do you have any Cosmo seat rails?
Berty's Cosmo
- Thread starter Berty
- Start date
Rodneooo, Do you have any Cosmo seat rails?
Small update, I just got a new set of Magnacore leads and installed them... I am finally burning all of my fuel again!
I did some more testing with the Blitz DSBC Type R today and I was getting some odd results with factory twins. Under medium throttle load, I am getting 0.9Bar until it gets above 4,000RPM but then dropping back to 0.5Bars after that.
However if I am already rolling and give it wide open throttle it doesn't want to go above 0.5bar. I seem to remember Dave saying that he was getting full boost by 2K, but I seem to be about 1,000RPM off that mark at present. Any suggestions?
I did some more testing with the Blitz DSBC Type R today and I was getting some odd results with factory twins. Under medium throttle load, I am getting 0.9Bar until it gets above 4,000RPM but then dropping back to 0.5Bars after that.
However if I am already rolling and give it wide open throttle it doesn't want to go above 0.5bar. I seem to remember Dave saying that he was getting full boost by 2K, but I seem to be about 1,000RPM off that mark at present. Any suggestions?
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frank20bcosmo
Member
- :
- eunos cosmo type s 20b
Berty,
You have got a 20b, where did you get the Magnacore leads from as all the
ones I have seen advertised are for a 2 rotor.
Thanks
Frank
ps and will they sell to overseas customers
You have got a 20b, where did you get the Magnacore leads from as all the
ones I have seen advertised are for a 2 rotor.
Thanks
Frank
ps and will they sell to overseas customers
My avatar is the prototype badge from the original Cosmo.
I haven't resolved the boost issue yet, but it is all in the tune. The Map Analyser is able to change my gain settings throughout the rev range depending on road speed and throttle position. Now that the Emanage is working, I am able to use the data logger to smooth out the boost curve... I have just been to busy though to tune it on the road.
I got them from here;
http://www.magnecor.com.au/
Very easy to deal with. If you have trouble getting them to ship overseas then they could send them to me and I could post to you if you like.
frank20bcosmo
Member
- :
- eunos cosmo type s 20b
Berty, Thanks would you believe it they have a place in the UK as I have just found on their web site and with an e-mail address, at least if has not got them (which I expect) he probably will be able to get a set for me.
Thanks again for the info
Update...
My new turbo has arrived today after I made the decision that the T51R is just too mental and would most likely end up breaking things too often.
I have instead gone for a "tame" Garrett T04E with a 1.32 rear and a .7AR front. The last owner was making a tad under 400RWHP on a 13B, so my (ported) 20B should be a little bit up on that.
Pics shortly! (rockon)
My new turbo has arrived today after I made the decision that the T51R is just too mental and would most likely end up breaking things too often.
I have instead gone for a "tame" Garrett T04E with a 1.32 rear and a .7AR front. The last owner was making a tad under 400RWHP on a 13B, so my (ported) 20B should be a little bit up on that.
Pics shortly! (rockon)
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frank20bcosmo
Member
- :
- eunos cosmo type s 20b
Hi Berty,
I gather you didn't get the boost issues resolved then ?
are you still going to be running twin turbos then with the new set up ?
got the magnecor leads I asked you about they were great to deal with and had them made up for me by the spec sheets,, arrived in 4 days after ordering them,, they have asked me to send them a photo for their web site in the uk ( which I will oblige ) all fitted and look great,, bloody tight to get them in the original wire seperators though but once in there in.
I have been talking to Dave at DMRH to source me a piggyback ecu from doo Eng in Japan,, virtually ready to do the deal and my bleedin central heating decided to pack up ( winter here ) so I have had to shelf it for a couple of months as only paid out best part of $10k aud for a full rebuild and street port job ( only done 300kms so far,, want the chip for set up when I go to the rolling road after a 1,000kms,, also have blitz dual spec type r boost controller sat in its box waiting to be fitted at same time..
Wife would of killed me if I had blown the dosh on the car and she had no heating lol (pow)
interested to see what power figure you get with the the new set up turbo(s)
as I have no idea what mine will be I am hoping for 350+ at the wheels
regards
Frank
ps the cosmo boys have been a bit quiet on the forums for a while,, whats going on ??
I gather you didn't get the boost issues resolved then ?
are you still going to be running twin turbos then with the new set up ?
got the magnecor leads I asked you about they were great to deal with and had them made up for me by the spec sheets,, arrived in 4 days after ordering them,, they have asked me to send them a photo for their web site in the uk ( which I will oblige ) all fitted and look great,, bloody tight to get them in the original wire seperators though but once in there in.
I have been talking to Dave at DMRH to source me a piggyback ecu from doo Eng in Japan,, virtually ready to do the deal and my bleedin central heating decided to pack up ( winter here ) so I have had to shelf it for a couple of months as only paid out best part of $10k aud for a full rebuild and street port job ( only done 300kms so far,, want the chip for set up when I go to the rolling road after a 1,000kms,, also have blitz dual spec type r boost controller sat in its box waiting to be fitted at same time..
Wife would of killed me if I had blown the dosh on the car and she had no heating lol (pow)
interested to see what power figure you get with the the new set up turbo(s)
as I have no idea what mine will be I am hoping for 350+ at the wheels
regards
Frank
ps the cosmo boys have been a bit quiet on the forums for a while,, whats going on ??
I wouldn't say that I fixed my boost issues, rather I managed to tune them out as much as possible using the computer and boost controller. I think that the vacuum network is nearing the end of its life so that is why I was having random boost drop outs.
I am only going to be running a single with the new setup, but if you take a look at the pic you can see why I only need one.
I was bidding on an RE-Amemiya type A ecu a couple of days ago but got outbid, oh well, the only reason I wanted it was to use the emanage to look at the RE-Amemiya ignition map.
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frank20bcosmo
Member
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- eunos cosmo type s 20b
Bloody Hell Berty thats a monster,, are you going to have any lag issues with that ??,, when it comes on you better hang on,, and you have some bloody good tyres,, and I definately wouldn't want to be out on wet roads when that comes on song lol
Iam going for the type b,, as I have removed main cats and running with straight through dual pipes with 2 small silencers with a one in to two tail extension fills the gap in the rear valance nicely,, didn't realise about the pre-cat,, so for now I am going to drop the original pre-cat and break up the ceramic inside to release the flow,, eventually see about getting either an aftermarket one that will bolt straight in ( yeah right ) or go custom made
our friend 13b cosmo has been asking me about the chipped ecu,, I dont know a lot about it other than it was a straight in plug and play for the 20b,, he thought it was a bit expensive,, what are the main advantages of the Redom piggyback chip ?
Regards
Frank
Iam going for the type b,, as I have removed main cats and running with straight through dual pipes with 2 small silencers with a one in to two tail extension fills the gap in the rear valance nicely,, didn't realise about the pre-cat,, so for now I am going to drop the original pre-cat and break up the ceramic inside to release the flow,, eventually see about getting either an aftermarket one that will bolt straight in ( yeah right ) or go custom made
our friend 13b cosmo has been asking me about the chipped ecu,, I dont know a lot about it other than it was a straight in plug and play for the 20b,, he thought it was a bit expensive,, what are the main advantages of the Redom piggyback chip ?
Regards
Frank
I suppose that they are expensive for what they are but the benefits are...
1. You don't need to tune it (this alone costs about $500AUD with any aftermarket computer)
2. You retain all of the drive ability of the stock car / cold start etc.
3. It is literally a 5 min install job for an instant 10-15% more power.
1. You don't need to tune it (this alone costs about $500AUD with any aftermarket computer)
2. You retain all of the drive ability of the stock car / cold start etc.
3. It is literally a 5 min install job for an instant 10-15% more power.
i was told they cost a million yen. not 150,000 which is whats on the site.
although there's a few different prices on there.
But 500 too tune an ecu.. that sounds expensive.
i was on the phone too someone I'm sure he said $80 for that well an insignificant amount i didn't take much note of.
made some calls too ensure the speed limiter was removed. which it is with all ecu's that were mentioned.
that sucks as you have too tune it with every upgrade you make.
perhaps your tuner isn't proficient with the greddy...
that turbo is something I would be so excited about. have you got any other supporting mods? what do u plan on running it at?
although there's a few different prices on there.
But 500 too tune an ecu.. that sounds expensive.
i was on the phone too someone I'm sure he said $80 for that well an insignificant amount i didn't take much note of.
made some calls too ensure the speed limiter was removed. which it is with all ecu's that were mentioned.
that sucks as you have too tune it with every upgrade you make.
perhaps your tuner isn't proficient with the greddy...
that turbo is something I would be so excited about. have you got any other supporting mods? what do u plan on running it at?
Well, it is $500 for the initial setup of it and that includes dyno time etc which is about $150. The E-manage can tune itself also if you have a wide band 02 sensor, but things like the ignition map need a trained eye.
I do have the supporting mods either already installed, purchased or on order. These are my supporting mods...
- Greddy 23 row oil cooler (its about 35cm high by 20cm wide) and remote filter setup with braided lines.
- 70cm x 30cm x 10cm intercooler
- Triple pass alloy radiator with Davies Craig thermo fan controller and 16" thermo. (no clutch fan anymore)
- Billet Fuel rails with 1000CC primaries and 1600CC secondaries. Twin rising rate fuel regulators.
- Still haven't decided on the fuel pump / surge tank situation
- Aquamist stage 3 water injection kit
- Turbosmart 50mm Powergate
- HKS Twin Power ignition amp
- RE-Amemiya style exhaust manifold, split pulse
- 4" dump pipe into twin 3" exhaust system
- No BOV!
Should be okay with those mods... fuel system is next on the list of things to do. Keep in mind also that the car already has a fair bit of modification. These are just the extras that are going it.
Oh, and I just finished cutting the paint off the turbo!
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frank20bcosmo
Member
- :
- eunos cosmo type s 20b
She's looking good sat on those new rims,, That's some set up your putting in there Berty should make some serious power I just hope it is not all at the top end for you or could be a pig on the road or permanently in 1st gear lol.
I am more interested in the plug in an leave it mode so I will stick with the one that DO ENG are pushing out now and get it set up to what I am running with regards air and exhaust,, I would be more than happy with that power increase you quoted.
13B , sorry about the yen price I mentioned got carried away on my conversion rates,, it will cost me to get it to the uk approc 1,000, so approx 2,000 aud or so,, cheaper for you as Dave at DMRH can sort it and no shipping to uk etc,,
Not sure what they do for the 13b though as the ones I have seen are aimed at the 20b and not seen any listing for the 13b,, but I would imagine they can tweak any to suit your car as long as they have original ecu to start with from a 13b
I am more interested in the plug in an leave it mode so I will stick with the one that DO ENG are pushing out now and get it set up to what I am running with regards air and exhaust,, I would be more than happy with that power increase you quoted.
13B , sorry about the yen price I mentioned got carried away on my conversion rates,, it will cost me to get it to the uk approc 1,000, so approx 2,000 aud or so,, cheaper for you as Dave at DMRH can sort it and no shipping to uk etc,,
Not sure what they do for the 13b though as the ones I have seen are aimed at the 20b and not seen any listing for the 13b,, but I would imagine they can tweak any to suit your car as long as they have original ecu to start with from a 13b
i was looking at getting the redom chip aswell but the price and limitations of it, sent me to the haltech plug and play road.
Any decent aftermarket computer will have all the standard drivability, cold start etc etc PLUS much much much more.
its all in the tuners ability with the product and the tune itself.
I had my haltech through various setups and 2 different 13b cosmos.
and my tuner has all my maps saved from the mild std turbo setup to the all out ball breaking setup. And iv gone back and forth as the car circumstances changed. iv never regretted getting it and will never look back. Its the absolute best investment iv made on both my cars.
If i change anything on my car i go in for quick tune and power run, and the previous and new map is saved for if and when i ever need it again.
now once my motor blows and i put my big setup back in, ill have the tune ready to go, and the tuner can just do a quick run to make sure all is safe.
Berty: looks like in your in for some serious power. keep us posted with the progress.
Any decent aftermarket computer will have all the standard drivability, cold start etc etc PLUS much much much more.
its all in the tuners ability with the product and the tune itself.
I had my haltech through various setups and 2 different 13b cosmos.
and my tuner has all my maps saved from the mild std turbo setup to the all out ball breaking setup. And iv gone back and forth as the car circumstances changed. iv never regretted getting it and will never look back. Its the absolute best investment iv made on both my cars.
If i change anything on my car i go in for quick tune and power run, and the previous and new map is saved for if and when i ever need it again.
now once my motor blows and i put my big setup back in, ill have the tune ready to go, and the tuner can just do a quick run to make sure all is safe.
Berty: looks like in your in for some serious power. keep us posted with the progress.
frank20bcosmo
Member
- :
- eunos cosmo type s 20b
why no bov? apart from it being a reason too be pulled over. and only the hks one's sound good. (they probably get annoying)
I like seeing different setups.
btw your mirrors have you covered where they join in something?
so it's possible to use a twin on a 20b. i thought you would have to get an msd ignition of some sort.
I like seeing different setups.
btw your mirrors have you covered where they join in something?
so it's possible to use a twin on a 20b. i thought you would have to get an msd ignition of some sort.
the haltech cost me about 2500 over 2 years ago.
my fist car was the guinea pig for them to make the plug n play loom for the e8. another 20b went in after mine came out for the 20b plug n play for the e11. not sure if they are still available though...
in my old car i made 330hp at the wheels on 14psi through a big auto. slightly ported block, to4z turbo (1.15 rear), 1600cc secondary injectors. fairly basic setup, very easy to drive, still very streetable.
In my car now i just have the basic bolt ons from the previous car. std motor, intercooler, exhaust + the haltech made 200hp at thewheels (very tired motor) and my other car with the same basic mods made 210hp (also tired motor)
when the time comes to put my good motor back in ill makng a few slight changes like a smaller rear housing on th turbo(1.00), better positioning of turbo with a better manifold, and a smaller stall convertor + ALOT of heat sheilding!!!!!
then later down the track a big igition system and water injection + more boost.
I did a lot of reading about the subject, particularly on AusRotary. It seems that the BOV is mainly a noise and emissions device that serves no real performance benefit.
If you think about it, the BOV discharges the system between gear changes or throttle closure meaning that the system then needs to re-charge itself, hence taking longer to come back onto boost.
Regarding the HKS ignition, I had seen an RX3 running a 20B with a twin spark and was under the impression that you needed to "Rotary DLI" units to cover the extra rotor. After talking to a rotary workshop in Canada, it turns out that you can use the universal six channel unit for the 20B.
Re: mirrors, i don't quite understand what you are asking.
@ Rodneooo... I am thinking that a Haltech might be on the horizon...
There are a lot of myths about BOVS extending turbo life, but they are just that... myths.
For a while I was actually considering not running a wastegate and instead putting a "wastegate" on the turbo compressor outlet (essentially a massive BOV). The drawback with this is that your turbo is constantly going ballistic and as I drive my car on the street still, I thought that it would be best not to do this. (burnout) You can learn some really interesting stuff by reading about the 1980s turbo F1 cars.
R
