Front Pipe and Blower Motor Resistor

P

Protege5Laval

Member
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2002 Protege5 ES
Hi I'm a new member here - nice place.

I have a 2002 P5. with nearly 160,000 km (100,000 miles)

My front pipe has rotten and needs to be changed. Has anyone had a similar problem? What is a decent price to repair?

Also, my blower motor resistor is fried (I think?) Fan doesn't work at any other setting than high and, at high setting, A/C light turns off.
Can anybody confirm it's the resistor? How easy is that to self fix?

Thank you !
 
Protege5Laval said:
Hi I'm a new member here - nice place.

I have a 2002 P5. with nearly 160,000 km (100,000 miles)

My front pipe has rotten and needs to be changed. Has anyone had a similar problem? What is a decent price to repair?

Also, my blower motor resistor is fried (I think?) Fan doesn't work at any other setting than high and, at high setting, A/C light turns off.
Can anybody confirm it's the resistor? How easy is that to self fix?

Thank you !
Click to expand...

Not quite sure what you mean by the "front pipe", but I had problems with the coolant pipes in my old 323 springing leaks, which may be the same thing. That was not terribly expensive to replace, I vaguely recall it was about $150 including labor.

Anybody with a screwdriver can replace the blower motor resistor pack. It could also be that the switch in the control unit is fried, or the contacts between the cable and the back of the switch are damaged or loose. There are many threads on this. The lack of an A/C light could still be an unrelated issue, but for sure you should not see the A/C light on if the fan isn't going.
 
You are safe to assume that it is just the resistor that needs replacing if you have no speeds but high. Not sure on the front pipe though. i live in Wisconsin have 152,000 and my front pipe is still good....For Now
 
Welcome!

Great car, eh? :) We love 'em!

Front exhaust pipe? Get a header for it! :0 A picture might help us.

Do not get a used a/c&fan switch - they have problems. Replace with new and inspect the connector fro corrsoin or burnt contacts.
 
Thanks guys.

Just to clarify, by front pipe I do mean the exhaust front pipe. In other words, the elbow between the header and the catalytic converter.

The hole(s) in this part makes the P5 sound like a John Deere.

What does a new blower resistor pack go for, give or take?
 
The exhaust pipe and first cat could be replaced with a single header. Great for performance. Would need to get the non-fouler or cap and resistor trick to fix the CEL.
 
I had my P5 in the muffler shop today and got a look at my front pipe. It lost the heat shield and could use replacing as it is rather rusted. The shop quoted $170 for a new one!

I've found them online between $20-30, but none of them appear to be the same as stock. The stock appear to have springs on each side of the bolt. I don't HAVE to replace it now, but I'm confused as to which to get, and how much it should really cost.
 
Dave_x said:
I've found them online between $20-30, but none of them appear to be the same as stock.
Click to expand...

Where online did you find them - I assume you mean front pipes?

I was quoted (CAD)$150 for the parts and the work. Not sure if I should attempt myself... any thoughts?

As for the resistor, thank you all for the info - I will change it out this weekend.
 
Protege5Laval said:
Where online did you find them - I assume you mean front pipes?

I was quoted (CAD)$150 for the parts and the work. Not sure if I should attempt myself... any thoughts?

As for the resistor, thank you all for the info - I will change it out this weekend.
Click to expand...

Yes, I meant a front pipe.

I found a few on ebay for under $30.

This Bosal is $66, but with digging it can be had for $60.

I can't find the link, but I thought I found one online that was also in the $30 range.

No idea on the difficulty, though the labor quote was 1/4 higher than changing the muffler. I'm just confused as to the part differences. The shop I deal with is pretty damn fair with margins and labor costs, yet the pipe with labor is about $215.
 
pasadena_commut said:
Anybody with a screwdriver can replace the blower motor resistor pack. It could also be that the switch in the control unit is fried, or the contacts between the cable and the back of the switch are damaged or loose. There are many threads on this. The lack of an A/C light could still be an unrelated issue, but for sure you should not see the A/C light on if the fan isn't going.
Click to expand...

When I first got my '03 P5, it was already having the flashing A/C light issue, but as it was the end of Fall, I wasn't using the A/C and didn't bother with it. And when summer rolled around, most of my driving was interstate, and I'm usually an open-window driver, so I rarely used my A/C.

Now, this summer, it's frikkin' HOT, and sometimes I have passengers, so I want my A/C to work. Only problem is, now my fan doesn't work on any setting except 4. I figured it was the blower resistor, but check this out: if I set the recirc. switch to outside air, hit the A/C switch, and put the fan switch in any of the 1-3 positions, the A/C light comes on. The fan still doesn't blow, but on the highway the force of the air coming in the vent blows air into the cabin - and it's A/C'ed.

So I know everything works, and I probably just have to replace the blower resistor (and probably the fan switch repair/replacement, too), but is it weird that the A/C comes on and works even if the fan doesn't work?

Is the blower resistor something I can get at AutoZone or Advance? Or do I have to go to the dealer with a tube of astroglide in hand?
 
Same issue

Also, my blower motor resistor is fried (I think?) Fan doesn't work at any other setting than high and, at high setting, A/C light turns

Thank you ![/QUOTE]

Did the resistor solve your issue? I'm having the EXACT same problem
 
You need to replace ac/heater fan resistor. It might be the one causing the problem. And as for the price of the front pipe replacement.. it would be around 120-150$ all in all.. that includes the labor already.
 
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the front pipe on my sons 01 2.0 just went.both flanges broke off.orderd a new one from discount auto parts on line for 82 bucks with shipping and handling.I have the old one off it is not hard.just do not strip the bolts.I also orderd a new oxygen sensor because the old one would not come out.that was another 57 bucks plus shipping and handling.the car has 75000 miles on it so it can not hurt to replace the sensor.
 
For the front pipe, Walker and Bosal both make replacements, but the Walker pipe is less expensive. The thing is with these, is that they don't include the tab to mount the pipe to your transmission, which I consider to be a rather glaring defect. I would either weld a tab on to one of these pipes, or search eBay for one that includes this tab.
 
I am not sure what you mean to mount the pipe to the trans.I have three nuts to the cat and two spring loaded nuts at the exhuast end.There is also a small heat shield on top that I removed and will install on the new pipe.Checked fedex tracking pipe should be here today.
 
Did you problem get fixed by replacing the blower motor resistor? I am having the same problem. No blower on 1-3, but comes on at 4. The ac light works on 1-3, but goes off for 4. Your response would be appreciated. I have baby and it is starting to get hot!!!1
 
I'll bet you've got this problem:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...y-STILL-NO-AIR

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...ling-air-fully

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ion-To-Flickering-Fan-Speed-2-Or-3-A-C-PART-2

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...the-quot-no-A-C-on-fan-speed-2-3-quot-problem


PANA0160_zps1f735c1e.jpg
 
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