Calibrating the MAF For Dummies?

I can't seem to find a straight answer on what the different MAF tables are for (A & B). One person said B is for when the A/C is on, another said it's for when DSC is on. Anybody know?
 
I can't seem to find a straight answer on what the different MAF tables are for (A & B). One person said B is for when the A/C is on, another said it's for when DSC is on. Anybody know?

I would also like to know this.

Do we change the values on both A and B?
 
I can't seem to find a straight answer on what the different MAF tables are for (A & B). One person said B is for when the A/C is on, another said it's for when DSC is on. Anybody know?

I read somewhere else that it has to do with the A/C. I have not read anything that says any of the tables have to do with dsc on or off. I sold my AP, so I am not up to date, but thats what I remember.
 
I was told by Bova on another thread that the two tables are for A/C off and on and that you're just supposed to use the same values for both tables if you change them.
 
For the multiplier, when it says MAF housing, is it talking about the diameter of the actual intake pipe, or the circular opening that you put the MAF sensor down into the intake through?
 
diameter of the MAF, but **** that, that way is garbage. you will be chasing your self even more if you do it that way. Just install it, log the STFT, LTFT, Voltage and mass airflow. when you log, if you see a 25 percent, then u need to do a multi of 1.25 on the range of numbers you see the 25 percent. if you see a -25 percent, then use a .75 multiplier. PM me if u need some more info, but its straightforward.
 
I read in the ATR help file that we should only adjust the MAF calibration up to 2.6 volts. Is this what everyone is doing?
 
This thread may be dead but here goes.

you will most certainly need to calibrate MAF all the way up or your WOT trims may be off. Def past 2.7
 
im in the works of getting parallels on my mac to run windows to start using ATR. This thread has explained things very well in regards to maf tables. keep it coming!
 
Since this thread is back to life, sort of...

Someone claimed earlier that the MAF is spitting out a number of, say, 10, when the actual number is 8, and that it needs to be calibrated. Where does one measure the actual number at to know that the MAF output is off of what actual is?? Curious in how you knew that the real number should have been 8.
 
Its in the ATR help file on how do perform a MAF calibration, but the short story is your LTFT for the most part, and your STFT will tell you how far off your MAF cal is. Basically, reset your ECU, drive at moderate throttle, no WOT for around 50 miles. Then log your LTFT and STFT values while performing the procedure outlined in the ATR help file. Those will tell you how far off your MAF calibration is.

In your example, if your LTFT was -2 then the ECU over time has learned that your MAF is reading too much air for a particular voltage and removing 2% fuel. So instead of injecting 10% more fuel it should be injecting 8% more fuel. Neither is good, you need to get as close to 0 as possible for the combined LTFT and STSF values for the entire voltage range of the MAF curve.
 
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