09 CX9 GT AWD trailer wiring ???

Wow, that's ridiculous. I can't believe it's that much to have that installed by the dealer. Hopefully someone is able to find the trans cooler for you CX9SportOwner....
 
No, its a 6 pin square connector, I'm pretty sure it connects to the harness in that picture that brightwhite is holding...

The outputs all seem to be correct though - I tested with a multi meter and checked brake ,turn signals and running lights... I'll get some pics this weekend hopefully if I get the correct cable..

I had the dealer order a 'cable' they thought was the right one, they're paying for it but its over $100 and I don't think its the right one. I'll pick it up later this week and see.. maybe you cant order the $30 cable withought the entire factory hitch still?

I'm totally amazed at how little the dealers know about some of this stuff with the cx-9....
 
Added more photos to my Flickr set that show Reese brake module, Modulite wiring harness, battery wiring and final hitch install.

Starts here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffandsam/3592831679/in/set-72157619136141070/

vikefan7, you're right, it's way too much. I enjoyed the process, but was surprised by how many 'extras' I needed.

CX9-Sport, the 6 wires map as follows: 12v aux, ground, left turn, right turn, brakes and running lights. No trailer brakes and you still need the other module to convert your turn and brake signals to a single input. That's what that extra Mazda harness or the Modulite does for you.
 
Oooo, good call. Still need to run it through that damn grommet in the fire wall. What a pain that was!

I got some pics I'll post soon... that part was pretty easy I thought...

Just pull out the battery - on that huge firewall grommet is a little nub that sticks out on the top left... poke a hole with something sharp - I used a dental pick. Spray a bit of silicon spray on it, and feed your wires through...

I guess I wasnt thinking about the brake/turn signals coming out as seperate wires... What was the advantage to the drawtite box vs the factory harness?

I was going to take out the coin holder - how hard did you have to force it to pop out? (Or is there a trick)

Thats not the part number the dealer ordered me regardless.. so not sure what I'm gonna get. (headshake
 
Yeah that's where I ran mine too. Still was a pain.

The advantage of the drawtite module was that you can't get the Mazda one without buying their hitch. They cone together.

Coin holder just pops out.

U4IA; said:
Just pull out the battery - on that huge firewall grommet is a little nub that sticks out on the top left... poke a hole with something sharp - I used a dental pick. Spray a bit of silicon spray on it, and feed your wires through...

I guess I wasnt thinking about the brake/turn signals coming out as seperate wires... What was the advantage to the drawtite box vs the factory harness?

I was going to take out the coin holder - how hard did you have to force it to pop out?
 
Nah, it's an engine, I don't care how it looks. ;) I barely wash the outside of my cars at all anymore. Too many more important things to do.
 
Yeah that's where I ran mine too. Still was a pain.

The advantage of the drawtite module was that you can't get the Mazda one without buying their hitch. They cone together.

Coin holder just pops out.

Hmmm, ok i'm slow (lol) but what you're saying is that even if I have that pigtail connector from Mazda that connects to my pre-wiring, I still need some 'box' (mazda or drawtite) to combine the left/right and brake signals?

I just googled and it does appear there are a few little boxes that do this...

ie. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=365269
 
I'm not sure what's available for the 09s, as you have that box pre-wired in and maybe your dealer can get the proper adaptor.

Keep in mind that LED taillights require a more powerful adapter with higher power output/input. The Modulite Lite is the least expensive one I found.
 
So I was going to post that I had this all figured out, but I got the harness from mazda and went to install it today...

Was a little confused when I tried to plug it in and realized that the vehicle pre-wire is a 6 pin female, and the mazda harness is a 6 pin female as well.

It has the mazda black box which has a flat-4 pin on one side, and the 6 pin connector which I assumed plugged into the pre-wire connector...even includes that grommet which I guess replaces the existing one below the jack.. there werent any instructions in the box, just some a troubleshooting flowchart.

So either this connector is for a 07-08 cx-9, or theres yet another connector you need.. I can always cut the end off and wire it up accordingly but that seemed to defeat the purpose of the pre-wiring...
 
I just bought some female blade connectors and hooked them into the male unit I had. You could like do the same with male connectors and a few inches of wire and save yourself some soldering.
 
Yes, I'm just going to make some jumpers between the two...

Now, I found something interesting. The mazda harness I have includes the black box which is identical to the modulite. It needs 12V power to run the lights...

On the factory pre-wire connector theres a pin that didnt do anything. So I noticed theres a fuse missing that says 12V Trailer in the glove box.

So i put a 15amp fuse in, and now I get a solid 12V back there....

I'll just run the black box converter off that 12V and hopefully thats enought power. Its on a 15 amp fuse so it should be..

I just wish the dealer actually knew what i was asking as this is the cable they said would be correct, but it doesnt actually connect...(boom02) (the date on this cable says 07 so its obviously for a 07-08 non pre-wire)

Kinda wondering what the actual 09 trailer kit includes...
 
yeah, that sounds just like what I should have been able to buy if it wasn't only available with the hitch up here.

Interesting about the fuse. Since mine wasn't prewired in, I wonder if I have that fuse and where it grabs 12v from? The harness I have wired off the power adaptor on the right side of the trunk, so I ran a 20a fuse right off the battery instead.
 
Question for those that installed a brake controller, I could swear someone said the brake sense wire was red/white, but that wire is 12V hot, and 0 when brake depressed...

I'm pretty sure it's the green/yellow which is 0V and then 12V when the brake is depressed.. (cold side of stop switch)
 
With the Reese box I put in, there was a solid red wire that looked out of place. I'm pretty sure it was wired in from my remote start, so that's what I tapped. I'm not sure what colour wire it led to.

Saying that though, this wire does get 12v when the brake is depressed and nothing when the pedal is in the normal position.
 
It's a tekonsha P3... According to the instructions - 'STOPLIGHT SWITCH - CONNECT TO COLD SIDE (VOLTAGE ONLY WHEN PEDAL IS PUSHED)'

I didnt see any red wires hanging out.... but regardless I wired it up to the green/yelllow wire off the switch...

I'd have this done by now but two little ones keep consuming all my free time :)
 
hook up without brake controller

I completed my install without a brake contoller, I hooked up the trailer and everything is fine. I bought the universal wiring kit with the Black box, I cut the ends and put on the flat prong connectors and plugged them right into the mazda connector, I only used the running lights, left blink, right blink, and brakes. In the factory connector they are all separate. I am still not sure what the others are for someone said 12v aux, But i never got power out of the other 2.
Very simple to do, Cost about $20 for the wiring kit, from any auto parts store. And a simple test light completes the job.
I dont need the brake controller so did not look into it...
 
Added more photos to my Flickr set that show Reese brake module, Modulite wiring harness, battery wiring and final hitch install.

If I'm seeing the pictures correctly, you pulled the 12V for the Modulite from the power tap on the passenger rear panel. Isn't that powered only when the key is "on"?
 
If I'm seeing the pictures correctly, you pulled the 12V for the Modulite from the power tap on the passenger rear panel. Isn't that powered only when the key is "on"?

No, that gets a constant signal, but I'm running a wire all the way from the battery to the Modulite and into the trailer 12v. The 12v from the lighter plug is going to the accessory wire on the trailer connector.
 
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