Excellent write up (as usual) -- about how long did this take?
Heard a few people say they were having issues getting this long delayed damper installed. Here is the how to for this damper, which we will be selling from this point on in lieu of Mazda3Mods. It fits easier and better than the WeaponR damper on the mazdaspeed3 and provides a nicer looking addition to the engine bay with all the benefit and none of the negatives from a full replacement mount.
First thing you'll want to do is support the engine. A jack underneath providing just enough tension and support on the oil pan (with a block of wood or other such spacer) will do the trick. Last thing you want is the engine to sag. Makes the install difficult if not impossible.
These nuts on the engine/mount need to come off. They are usually pretty tight so pack some muscle or pack some leverage;
Next, the studs need to come out of the engine. You will be replacing these have no fear. Reverse torx socket is required for this;
Now, place the supplier spacer support atop the bracket;
This is how the bracket and bolts will drop in to the mount;
Tighten these bolts down TIGHT. I do not recommend an air wrench because you do not want strip out the threads on the aluminum.
Almost there. Now we need to remove the three bolts from this plate on the passenger side strut tower and place the new bracket on top;
Now we need to attach the damper to the two brackets with the supplied nuts and bolts as shown;
Once everything is in, retighten and recheck everything. The silver nut on the shaft of the damper itself should be tightened all the way shut for the maximum effect.
Enjoy!
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Last edited by Captain KRM P5; 05-21-2009 at 01:10 PM.
Excellent write up (as usual) -- about how long did this take?
2008.5 MS3 GT MGM - prone to acts of jackassery
2010 MZ5 GT GGM
1991 MX-5 SE BRG - new (to me) toy
What size reverse torx socket for the studs? And any torque specs, or "gudenteit" suffice?
2008.5 Mazdaspeed3 GT, True Red
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the angle is funny, but the cap in reality rises a hair above all of that assembly and unscrews / screws on as normal
believe it was E6 for the socket. the studs in the engine mount were hand tight honestly when we pulled them outso we simply cranked them down as tight as we could go
about one hour
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this keeps the damper level, the strut tower bracket sits higher than the bracket on the engine. also keeps it clear of interfering with the hoses and lines.
the one above picture is not correct, i will delete it for clarity. the bottom image is correct.
hmm, not the directions i got from M3M. i'll check with him again and check our install to be 110% certain. if i'm wrong, i'll make the changes here and have a mod clean up the thread
Last edited by Captain KRM P5; 05-15-2009 at 04:45 AM.
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ken, i already have the trz combo which i love. why should i buy this? sell me!!!
its one more piece of the puzzle to lock this engine in. all three corners are covered at this point and your engine simply will NOT move, anywhere. you don't have to pull the mount on the passenger side and do a full replacement. plus its engine bay eye candy at its finest.
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Will it reduce vibes or increase them?
Last edited by mr_mazda329; 05-17-2009 at 11:00 AM.
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