So I had to take my 6 into the dealership last week for warped rotors. We never excessively brake so I'm not sure why it already had warped rotors at 26k miles. Anyone else have issues with their rotors warping early? I've had dozens of cars and this is the first one that I've ever needed to have the rotors turned on.
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Warped Rotors
- Thread starter es99cobra
- Start date
Ah, that's a good point. That very well could have happened. So how do I find out the correct torque specs?Did you have any work done on the 6 before bringing it in. It is possible if the wheels were taken off, that they were put back on with an impact wrench and torqued the lug nut on too much and uneven.
Mazda_maniac
Member
- :
- 00 Protege
Most Mazdas are about 80 ftlb.
always a good idea to dbl check with your own torque wrench at home after you have work done where the wheels are taken off and put back on....
over torquing is the number one killer of rotors....and cause of broken stubs, especially when cross threading by some idiot
over torquing is the number one killer of rotors....and cause of broken stubs, especially when cross threading by some idiot
I am having the same issue My M5 is at 65K and it only happens when I break at higher speeds around 80-100kmh, I can feel the vibration, is this really a rotor problem?
if you only feel it when you're breaking....yeah
- :
- 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 Sport
always a good idea to dbl check with your own torque wrench at home after you have work done where the wheels are taken off and put back on....
over torquing is the number one killer of rotors....and cause of broken stubs, especially when cross threading by some idiot
After about 100 miles or so driving on them after they've been removed and put back on, you need to retorque them. It happens a lot with alloy wheels that the lug nut will work its way into the soft alloy and cause a bit of play. Retorquing them gets the lug nuts back into a proper seat.
For future reference, most parts store chains will turn rotors for you as well. When the car is out of warranty you might want to look at that for potential cost-savings.
if you only feel it when you're breaking....yeah
Dealer is charging me for $310 bucks + tax for my front rotors, do you know where I can buy a cheaper or after market one?, is it worth to buy after market?, budget are limited these days... now I know the dealer is not lying, warped rotors at 65K, I think this is too early to replace them. do you agree? I drive on highways everyday and dont press on brakes too hard.
Dealer is charging me for $310 bucks + tax for my front rotors, do you know where I can buy a cheaper or after market one?, is it worth to buy after market?, budget are limited these days... now I know the dealer is not lying, warped rotors at 65K, I think this is too early to replace them. do you agree? I drive on highways everyday and dont press on brakes too hard.
check around at local part stores like napa or o'rieley's.....i know here there are a few places like that that will machine rotors(as long as they are with in spec) for like 15-20 bucks and that will make them flat again
and yes you can order aftermarket ones that are blank(not crossdrilled or slotted) for a lot cheaper than 300, check protegegarage.com out
blue06mazda6
Member
- :
- 2006 Mazda 6 I
I have the same issue with mine with the wheel shake when braking at any speed above 30. Mine started after i got new tires over the winter and i didn't lossen the lugs and retighten them to 85 ft pounds.
But mine i feel it in the pedal as well as the wheel plus the jerking when slowing down.
So i'm wondering what rotors are the best to get that are equal to OE or that will last longer. This is my first time changing brakes so i never bought any before and i don't trust some one like Monroe, Sears etc. with the car.
But mine i feel it in the pedal as well as the wheel plus the jerking when slowing down.
So i'm wondering what rotors are the best to get that are equal to OE or that will last longer. This is my first time changing brakes so i never bought any before and i don't trust some one like Monroe, Sears etc. with the car.
it don't matter about the rotors, they all will suffer the warping fate if an idiot with a impact gun puts your lug nuts on too tight. you can check around and find a place that can machine them, take your rotors off and take them to whoever and put them back on(should be less than 50 that way)
as for buying a set...blanks are cheap and good, the crossdrilled help with keeping the rotors cool, and slotted aparently has the potential for eating pads
as for buying a set...blanks are cheap and good, the crossdrilled help with keeping the rotors cool, and slotted aparently has the potential for eating pads
blue06mazda6
Member
- :
- 2006 Mazda 6 I
When I change mine. Would be ok to get replacement rotors like form Auto Zone.
And still get EBC Green Stuff pads to run with them?
And still get EBC Green Stuff pads to run with them?
sunshineFC
Member
- :
- MazdaSpeed6 VRM
When I change mine. Would be ok to get replacement rotors like form Auto Zone.
And still get EBC Green Stuff pads to run with them?
Thats fine.
-a
blue06mazda6
Member
- :
- 2006 Mazda 6 I
Thats what i got. I just got the durla last blanks from Auto Zone.
I also kept the same pads because there is a lot on them yet.
I have a 1000 miles on the the new rotors and the car stops just like it did when new.
I also kept the same pads because there is a lot on them yet.
I have a 1000 miles on the the new rotors and the car stops just like it did when new.
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