Rear Wheel Camber is Eating Tires

So I see that most here have fixed the alignment issue by installing SPC adjustable cambers. After I order these I will have to look for a shop that can install and do the alignment which I understand can be tedious. How much more can I expect these alignment places to charge vs. Sears, express tire, firestone who charge about $79 here in san diego?
I don't have an answer for your question, but want to give you a heads up on something I read about these adjustable rear arms. At least some versions require the rear wheel to be removed to make adjustments. Understandably, this would annoy the alignment tech and can result in a service that will be more expensive.
 
In order to ease the "tediousness" of the alignment, let the shop know you want the rear camber to be between 0 and -0.5 degrees. The rear camber value is not so critical when it is in this range. What you are trying to do is get away from -2 degrees camber, because that much lean is what really causes the inside tread wear problems. I also mitigated my tire wear issues by changing to 16 inch rims and running 205/60/16 tires. The extra sidewall is also more forgiving when you have the slight negative camber. I HATED the feel of the ride the stock 17 inch rims gave, and they were not forgiving at all to the rear camber.

The shop should be able to get an initial measurement after installing the camber arms slightly longer than the stock arms, and then calculate how much longer to make them to get close to zero after the initial measurement. It worked for me.
 
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In order to ease the "tediousness" of the alignment, let the shop know you want the rear camber to be between 0 and -0.5 degrees. The rear camber value is not so critical when it is in this range. What you are trying to do is get away from -2 degrees camber, because that much lean is what really causes the inside tread wear problems. I also mitigated my tire wear issues by changing to 16 inch rims and running 205/60/16 tires. The extra sidewall is also more forgiving when you have the slight negative camber. I HATED the feel of the ride the stock 17 inch rims gave, and they were not forgiving at all to the rear camber.

The shop should be able to get an initial measurement after installing the camber arms slightly longer than the stock arms, and then calculate how much longer to make them to get close to zero after the initial measurement. It worked for me.

Thanks! I really dont know anything abt. alignment technicalities so this should help when it is time to do the alignment Did you use SPC or another brand?
 
Thanks! I really dont know anything abt. alignment technicalities so this should help when it is time to do the alignment Did you use SPC or another brand?

I ended up going with these ones because the cost savings was significant. http://www.speedyracer.com/suspensi...07-Ford-Focus-Adjustalbe-Rear-Camber-Kit-RED- Unfortunately one bushing did go bad on one of them after less than a year, but all has been good with the replacement and the other original bushings so far, and now I have a few spare parts from buying the second set. They wouldn't just sell me a replacement bushing but I'm still in it for less than one SPC set.
 
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I don't have an answer for your question, but want to give you a heads up on something I read about these adjustable rear arms. At least some versions require the rear wheel to be removed to make adjustments. Understandably, this would annoy the alignment tech and can result in a service that will be more expensive.
Is there a version that doesn't!?


So I see that most here have fixed the alignment issue by installing SPC adjustable cambers. After I order these I will have to look for a shop that can install and do the alignment which I understand can be tedious. How much more can I expect these alignment places to charge vs. Sears, express tire, firestone who charge about $79 here in san diego?
SPC arms are advertised as forge molded (pressure molding - think blacksmith hammering a piece steel to make a sword) vs the generic brands which are likely cast molded (pour liquid metal into a sword mold). In the end you get two swords, which are perfectly fine for chopping, but if the two were to collide (or hit something that is not soft) – you get the picture. Bushing quality/durability is the other variable.

The rear wheel has to come off for every adjustment otherwise you cannot physically access the adjustment nut. Even then, some place may want to remove it to make it easier to adjust the nut - for every adjustment. Depends on who/how does the job, it can be more labor intensive b/c the wheel and the arm needs to come off and put on the rack to assess new measurement. You should expect to pay more unless the shop is gracious enough to do for free.


Alignment is a true art form and the proper equipment is a bonus. Just b/c the tech is certified to operate an alignment machine DOES NOT mean he/she understands… Speaking from bad experience going to a chain.
Find a shop here: http://www.hunter.com/gsp9700
 
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I'll be picking up the SPC #67420 rear upper control arms, $80 each from Summit Racing (free shipping).

So... after installation and when I take it in for an alignment, what camber and toe range should I be asking for?

Also, I will be needing new rear shocks. Recommendations? I'm wanting to keep the ride close to factory firmness and with the same height, but want it to last longer than the factory shocks did (~ 72,000 miles, completely shot). This is an '09 Sport.
 
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I'll be picking up the SPC #67420 rear upper control arms, $80 each from Summit Racing (free shipping).

So... after installation and when I take it in for an alignment, what camber and toe range should I be asking for?

Also, I will be needing new rear shocks. Recommendations? I'm wanting to keep the ride close to factory firmness and with the same height, but want it to last longer than the factory shocks did (~ 72,000 miles, completely shot). This is an '09 Sport.

You should be able to get it close by matching the lengths of the new ares to the old ones, then adjust the new ones out from there with the adjusting nuts 4 turns. Then when you bring it to the alignment shop, tell them your goal is to have the rears between 0 and -0.5 degrees, with 0 being your target. You just don't want them to lean out at the top at all (greater than +0), and also don't want them leaning in more than 0.5 degrees.

Some people have had good luck with KYB Excel G. I did not. NAPA premium have held up for me. KONI FSD is on my wish list though. They're top quality but you pay for it.
 
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I work at Advance Auto parts and found I can order the adjustable arms in Moog.
Would it be a smart move on my end to get them in Moog?
 
Moog sounds fine.

I changed mine with SPC ($65 ea on Ebay with shipping).
Here is a potential issue with the common design of these:
If you have an alignment done, it may be labor intensive to properly adjust them. You cannot get a wrench on the adjuster screw once they are mounted!
That part is boxed in from three sides. Shop may tell you they have to remove wheel, take out lower mounting screw, adjust, putt back together, see where the alignment is - rinse & repeat.

Others have done it themselves and normally the camber is fairly visible from the outside.
 
Moog sounds fine.

I changed mine with SPC ($65 ea on Ebay with shipping).
Here is a potential issue with the common design of these:
If you have an alignment done, it may be labor intensive to properly adjust them. You cannot get a wrench on the adjuster screw once they are mounted!
That part is boxed in from three sides. Shop may tell you they have to remove wheel, take out lower mounting screw, adjust, putt back together, see where the alignment is - rinse & repeat.

Others have done it themselves and normally the camber is fairly visible from the outside.



Thanks for the heads up. Luckily with working at an Auto part place. I've come to get to know the shops fairly well.

I get my alignment done for $20 bucks and adjusted as needed. So should be no problem
 
I have a 2015 w/ 25K miles on it with mostly city driving around Austin. I'm getting my car back from the dealership with tires that have uneven wear on the inside of the tread more severe on the rears with the message that the alignment is needed and along with a new set of tires. So is this the great sign I was waiting for (hoping to avoid) to take the dive into installing the the rear Camber Arm kit and if so SPC is the one to go with is that the consensus? Does anyone have a price on the alignment with these boogars installed? I haven't seen an estimate with all the back and forth on the board. Oh! And is it advised to get alignment done after each tire rotation as well?
 
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I have a 2015 w/ 25K miles on it with mostly city driving around Austin. I'm getting my car back from the dealership with tires that have uneven wear on the inside of the tread more severe on the rears with the message that the alignment is needed and along with a new set of tires. So is this the great sign I was waiting for (hoping to avoid) to take the dive into installing the the rear Camber Arm kit and if so SPC is the one to go with is that the consensus? Does anyone have a price on the alignment with these boogars installed? I haven't seen an estimate with all the back and forth on the board. Oh! And is it advised to get alignment done after each tire rotation as well?

My 2014 Mz5 needed tires at 30k miles which was done by used car dealer that sold the vehicle to me. The issue was uneven wear. Alignment was performed after new tires were put on. While the new tires are wearing fairly evenly and noise is no longer the issue -- OE Toyos on this car tend to be loud -- they are on the lower-end in terms of price and quality but that's a different topic. (Literally, a different forum topic -- I posted a question and got good feedback regarding replacement tires that worked well for other Mz5 owners.)

I believe the SPC arms which are sold under several brand names as a repackaged product are the way to go based on what I read. I don't have a clue as to what the alignment will cost once they are installed and have to be part of the adjustment process.

Regarding tire rotations, if you do them every 6k-8k miles then alignment adjustments should not be needed. I suppose checking alignment wouldn't hurt. But your vehicle should not get out of alignment every 6k miles under fairly ordinary use. Now if you race or haul a ton of weight regularly... :)
 
My 2006 MZ5 loved eating the inner rear tires. No cure for it. Just keep feeding it tires and it'll be fine.

Sadly I had to retire my old beauty.
 
Ok so i am having the Moog adjustable rear arms put in tomorrow. I had my car aligned today or pretend align as my buddy works at a shop. So here is what I got.



The rear camber were both -3.1
And rear toe was -0.74

Can anyone possibly tell me what the numbers should be after alignment with adjustable arms and in General.
 
I haven't posted in some time, but I'm fed up with my rear tire wear now. I've had the rear toe in adjusted for the weight I carry and the inside of the rear tires still wear prematurely.

My current set of tires have made it about 25,000 miles and now cord is starting to show. I ordered a set of the ACDelco sold SPC arms on the 23rd. I hope to have them in for the next weekend so I can install them and buy another set of tires. I want to get back to replacing my tires once every two years, not every year like my 5 wants to do.

EDIT: The SPC arms arrived on the 28th. Looks like I have a Saturday project. (spin)
 
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I just put in the new SPC rear upper arms in my 5.

Surprisingly all I had to do to remove the upper bolt on the driver's side was move the exhaust off the last three hangers. The bolt just angled out with just a hair of clearance after that.

Thanks to all that contributed to this thread. I should have done this when I bought my 5 a couple years ago. :)
 
I had the front right strut of my 5 blow its oil out all over the inside of the wheel well and inside of the wheel. That front right wheel was bouncing pretty hard with no shock absorbing going on. Strange that the strut only made it to 75,000 miles. (sadbanana)

Anyway, I had the front struts replaced today at the local repair shop and got a four wheel alignment done as well. Pretty much a requirement with a strut job, I suppose.

The good thing is that I left my usual transport load in the back for the alignment job. Hopefully, my rear tires will wear like a live axle pick up truck from here on out.

(drive)
 
2012 mazda5 bought new.

34,000 miles first set of tires (OEM TOyos done)

Replaced with 225/45/18 Michelin MXM4 ($800). They lasted exactly 53K miles.

Vehicle is at 87,000 miles. Did all 4 shocks with Bilsteins now.

If I can get 50-55K per set of tires, I am fine with it. Factory alignment specs.
 
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