2006+ Mazda5 Maintenance Tasks: Do It Yourself

I will also say that I appreciate the detail and effort put into this oil change tutorial. I performed my first oil change last fall after purchasing it used in the spring. It was also my first time changing cartridge type oil filters. The hardest part was finding the proper oil cap type wrench of the proper size and number of flutes. I spent most of my time fixing up the plastic shield that the previous owner or dealer screwed up.
 
Changed the oil for the first time on our '09 5 GT . The aluminum drain plug was already stripped so I had some oil on my hands. It wasn't too much worse than the toyota tercel I used to do oil changes on. I'm curious about the filters though, the one I took out looked like the filter had been squished a bit. It also seemed like the new one i put in may have been a bit tall, fram 9641 is this the right filter?
 
Changed the oil for the first time on our '09 5 GT . The aluminum drain plug was already stripped so I had some oil on my hands. It wasn't too much worse than the toyota tercel I used to do oil changes on. I'm curious about the filters though, the one I took out looked like the filter had been squished a bit. It also seemed like the new one i put in may have been a bit tall, fram 9641 is this the right filter?

There used to be several threads about the crushed filters. Mazda uses several different manufacturers and there is significant variation in the outcome. I have seen a couple of mine come out like that, and I have not had any problems that I'm aware of.
 
Thanks to the OP for these instructions, I was able to have the courage to do the oil change on my 09 Mazda 5. After waiting over an hour to let the engine cool down, I removed the oil drain plug and loosened the filling cap to let all of the oil drain into the pan. I waited 5 mins and then replaced the drain plug to stop the dripping (was dripping a drop every 4-5 seconds at this time). After using the allen wrench to drain the oil from the filter housing, I realize I didn't have the correct sized filter wrench needed to remove the cartridge so I left everything there and ran off to the auto parts store. I picked up what I needed and a set of new crush washers for the drain plug and this took me about an hour. When I got back, I removed the drain plug again to put on the new crush washer and I was surprised to see another 1/2 cup of old oil pour out of the drain plug! The drips must have collected in the oil pan for the hour I was away. This tells me that one must wait AT LEAST 2 hours to thoroughly drain all of the old oil.
 
I agree with you, kickin. If an oil change is done properly, the oil should be warm, and it should be allowed to drain as completely as possible. I have been a proponent of this for a long time. It is also one reason that I have only taken any car to a 'quick lube' once in my lifetime. I regretted that one time, by the way, as they double gasket-ed my filter and it blew out an hour into a 4 hour trip home from out of state. I managed to save the engine on my Jetta GLI because I shut it off as soon as I saw an oil light, but man, what a mess!

I did the cartridge crap for too long with our 5, and I am happy to say it now has the belly pan cut out and a real spin-on filter kit installed. Much easier. I only wish I had done it sooner.
 
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Thanks for the info on Fumoto valves. Here's the link: http://www.qwikvalve.com/size-chart.html For the MZ5 2.3, you need the 14mm/1.5 thread size. I will probably go with the F316L which has a 90 degree elbow to point the oil downwards. Another option I see is the F106N, which has a nipple you can attach tubing to- that way, you can put the waste oil directly in a jug, rather than a catch pan. Either valve will require the ADP106 adapter to get clearance from the pan.
 
Or you can get the FS106SW which comes with an integrated adapter. That's the one I purchased and will be installing it in a couple months when the next oil change is due.
 
I don't know of this has been covered here but it is worth mentioning. My wife has had her 5 for almost 5 years and 100k and I have done every oil change. The first thing I did was take a cut off wheel on the dremel and open that hole on the splash guard that is next to the filter(the hole for leak detection or whatever they put it there for) and haven't removed that splash guard for an oil change and have no no issues in 100k miles.

That said,I see no reason not to do this since it saves you time and aggregation by not having to deal with taking off the splash guard.
 
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