PLEASE HELP!!!!! 2009 Mazda 3 Steering Wheel Controls

D

djbailey

Member
I just installed an aftermarket 4-channel amp and new speakers in the car. The steering wheel controls are no longer working. I ran speaker wires back to the trunk and tapped them into the harness at the head unit (stock HU). This was all connected and temporarily spliced in the trunk until the amp was put in. Had speaker level inputs, and then back out to the speakers (through the stock harness.) All this was wired at the head unit and they worked fine. Put the amp in and now they don't work. Any ideas please? I've checked all connections and everything appears fine. What color wires from the stock harness for the controls? No low level pulses are sent though the audio circuits right? Please help.

EDIT: I think I realized what happened. The brown/yellow wire (which I believe is the control wire for the steering wheel controls) accidentally came into contact with voltage and shorted. Is there any type of internal fuse or component such as a resistor or something that may have blown and could be replaced?
 
The circuit goes:
HU -> Brown/Yellow wire -> clock spring -> control switch block -> clock spring -> White/Black wire -> HU.

Pull the connector out of the HU and measure across the two wires with an ohm meter, you should read a few K Ohms. Push buttons and the reading should change. If it is open, you blew either the clock spring or the button block. You have to take it apart to tell which. If this is OK, you blew the input to the head unit.
 
This is why I leave the electronics to the professionals, except for my V1 hardwire or course!

Good luck fixing your fcuk up.
 
Rotus8 said:
The circuit goes:
HU -> Brown/Yellow wire -> clock spring -> control switch block -> clock spring -> White/Black wire -> HU.

Pull the connector out of the HU and measure across the two wires with an ohm meter, you should read a few K Ohms. Push buttons and the reading should change. If it is open, you blew either the clock spring or the button block. You have to take it apart to tell which. If this is OK, you blew the input to the head unit.
Click to expand...

Great info...thank you very much. I will test that this weekend. Everything else is working fine with the stereo itself, and with the cruise control buttons. Once I isolate the problem, how do I go about repairing? Is either damage repairable?
 
djbailey said:
Great info...thank you very much. I will test that this weekend. Everything else is working fine with the stereo itself, and with the cruise control buttons. Once I isolate the problem, how do I go about repairing? Is either damage repairable?
Click to expand...
If the clockspring is zapped, there it nothing but replacing it. You can do the replacement yourself, but you have to have some tools, and be careful not to set off the air bag. If it is the switch module, you might be able to disassemble and repair, but it won't be simple.

If it is the radio head itself, you are probably going to be shopping for another one, of just live without the wheel controls. You may be able to find a replacement HU from someone doing an upgrade, or even get an upgraded stock HU - 6 CD changer with MP3 capability.
 
Rotus8 said:
If the clockspring is zapped, there it nothing but replacing it. You can do the replacement yourself, but you have to have some tools, and be careful not to set off the air bag. If it is the switch module, you might be able to disassemble and repair, but it won't be simple.

If it is the radio head itself, you are probably going to be shopping for another one, of just live without the wheel controls. You may be able to find a replacement HU from someone doing an upgrade, or even get an upgraded stock HU - 6 CD changer with MP3 capability.
Click to expand...

Understood. Thank you for your reply and great info. I will wait until I can assess the damage further. Last question for now though - if I upgrade to a 6-disc new stereo, does it need to be recoded or anything like that, or is it plug and play?
 
djbailey said:
Understood. Thank you for your reply and great info. I will wait until I can assess the damage further. Last question for now though - if I upgrade to a 6-disc new stereo, does it need to be recoded or anything like that, or is it plug and play?
Click to expand...
I have no direct experience, but I have heard others doing it with no trouble.
 
I tested the change in resistance for each button:

base (no buttons pressed) = 5.05 KΩ
vol+ = 147.1 Ω
vol- = 54.1 Ω
mode = 1.036 KΩ
mute = 2.034 KΩ
up = 300.5 Ω
down = 561 Ω

My car is a MS3 2008 sport. This should let you see if it is just one part or all. Might be able to replace just the bad part. But I would guess Mazda only sells the whole unit.
Good luck
 
Steering Wheel Controls

Would you indulge me and list the wire colours for all those steering wheel functions?

I am trying to reconnect my controls to my Pioneer DEH-880PRS and can't find a wiring diagram.

I am assuming the wiring is the same for my 2006 non-bose.

Thanks.
 
I am going to guess that you cannot simply connect the factory wires to you
Pioneer deck. It is usually not that simple. You might need an interface unit from PAC.

The wire colors are in the third post of this thread.
 
jeffhawn said:
Would you indulge me and list the wire colours for all those steering wheel functions?

I am trying to reconnect my controls to my Pioneer DEH-880PRS and can't find a wiring diagram.

I am assuming the wiring is the same for my 2006 non-bose.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

There is not a separate wire for each function. One wire reads a different resistance depending on which button is pressed.
 
granted, i am going to get an module as the pioneer has a remote input [3.5mm]..

are you saying that i have to use a meter to locate the specific trigger wires?

i am alittle confused now. :S
 
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