that's a lot of power for the stock rods...you can run 250whp or more no problem, it's been proven several times...but the key point behind those kinds of numbers is that you HAVE to have a conservative tune...if you hit any kind of predet at those horsepower levels you will bend/snap/spin a rod or bearing...a really common misconception is that if you have upgraded rods you are invulnerable to any kind of damages and the fact is that is NOT true
if you break it down into the basics of how a motor works it makes it a lot easier to understand...the rods places torque on the crankshaft as it spins ...the torque spins the crankshaft and power is output...the torque has to be placed on the crankshaft during a certain part of the crankshaft's movement, or else you are placing power through the rod against the crankshaft in a direction that cannot move the crankshaft, which basically is like hammering an egg against a brick wall...between the two the rod is MUCH weaker than the crankshaft is, and as such the rod will either bend or snap, or the rod bearing will get destroyed and spin...your TUNE is what stops this kind of problem from happening the most
if you take the stock msp tune and run 250whp you WILL hit predet and you WILL destroy your engine, regardless of boost levels...but if you tune it conservatively to avoid predet (i.e. not super lean) you are far less likely to predetonate and cause your engine to blow
I cannot say anything about the CPboost setup's tune, I can't say anything about the results people have seen...but I can tell you that I have seen plenty of protege's run ~250 horsepower+ and almost ALL of the ones that were able to do that WITHOUT issue are the ones that had a proper tune for it
however do note that even if you do have a proper tune it's no gaurantee that your engine will blow...it's simply the absolute best kind of protection you can have, but it's protection, not a gaurantee...tuner's tune off of a LOT of variables: boost levels, throttle position, rpm, timing advancement/retardation, engine coolant temperature, fuel injection durantion, fuel injectection duty, air intake temperature, etc...etc...as a result there are a million and one different scenarios you could encounter, and a tuner can only tune according to the most commonly used setup on your car...racetrack setups would be tuned for a completely different set of conditions than a street setup, but unfortunately a street setup has to account for a LOT more different variables: cruising, full throttle, light throttle, hot weather driving, cold weather driving, etc...as a result there are exponentially more conditions that could create problems, there is no gaurantee that you won't encounter some random condition that would spark any number of issues
the cpboost setup looks really nice...the results that I have seen seemed positive (though the results I have seen were not after prolonged periods of time)...but if you are looking for some kind of guarantee against your engine blowing then leave your engine stock and unboosted and go buy a 4g63 powered car (or other engine with stronger rods)...if you want to make power with what you've got then be prepared to spend more money that you would have originally planned...you may be lucky and not spend a dime more than you planned, or you may wind up like me and spend $20,000 plus...but the bottom line is if you are going to do it, then do it right...some engines can take a bit of a beating and still hold up to it, the FS-DET is not one of those engines...the unfortunate part is the platform it is placed in handles like a dream
if you break it down into the basics of how a motor works it makes it a lot easier to understand...the rods places torque on the crankshaft as it spins ...the torque spins the crankshaft and power is output...the torque has to be placed on the crankshaft during a certain part of the crankshaft's movement, or else you are placing power through the rod against the crankshaft in a direction that cannot move the crankshaft, which basically is like hammering an egg against a brick wall...between the two the rod is MUCH weaker than the crankshaft is, and as such the rod will either bend or snap, or the rod bearing will get destroyed and spin...your TUNE is what stops this kind of problem from happening the most
if you take the stock msp tune and run 250whp you WILL hit predet and you WILL destroy your engine, regardless of boost levels...but if you tune it conservatively to avoid predet (i.e. not super lean) you are far less likely to predetonate and cause your engine to blow
I cannot say anything about the CPboost setup's tune, I can't say anything about the results people have seen...but I can tell you that I have seen plenty of protege's run ~250 horsepower+ and almost ALL of the ones that were able to do that WITHOUT issue are the ones that had a proper tune for it
however do note that even if you do have a proper tune it's no gaurantee that your engine will blow...it's simply the absolute best kind of protection you can have, but it's protection, not a gaurantee...tuner's tune off of a LOT of variables: boost levels, throttle position, rpm, timing advancement/retardation, engine coolant temperature, fuel injection durantion, fuel injectection duty, air intake temperature, etc...etc...as a result there are a million and one different scenarios you could encounter, and a tuner can only tune according to the most commonly used setup on your car...racetrack setups would be tuned for a completely different set of conditions than a street setup, but unfortunately a street setup has to account for a LOT more different variables: cruising, full throttle, light throttle, hot weather driving, cold weather driving, etc...as a result there are exponentially more conditions that could create problems, there is no gaurantee that you won't encounter some random condition that would spark any number of issues
the cpboost setup looks really nice...the results that I have seen seemed positive (though the results I have seen were not after prolonged periods of time)...but if you are looking for some kind of guarantee against your engine blowing then leave your engine stock and unboosted and go buy a 4g63 powered car (or other engine with stronger rods)...if you want to make power with what you've got then be prepared to spend more money that you would have originally planned...you may be lucky and not spend a dime more than you planned, or you may wind up like me and spend $20,000 plus...but the bottom line is if you are going to do it, then do it right...some engines can take a bit of a beating and still hold up to it, the FS-DET is not one of those engines...the unfortunate part is the platform it is placed in handles like a dream
but subbing anyway cuz one day...